79 C APE B RETON I SLAND Day 19 - A lovely last day in September in Cape Breton Island — how we hated to leave our nest on the coast. But we had calculated our time and when we are supposed to be in certain places and knew it was time to leave. So as the sun shone bravely, we packed up the car and paid our gentleman host the princely sum of $186.00 American (of which $36.00 should come back to us since it is taxes). He took a personal check and told us that he and his father had been running this business for over 40 years and have never lost by trusting their guests except once and that was for only $16.00. So he trusted my honest face as well. F ORTRESSOF L OUISBOURG Our goal today was the Fortress of Louisbourg — and what a wonderfully interesting place it turned out to be. The city was once the 4th largest port in North America (after New York, Boston and Charleston) and it is the site of the 1st lighthouse in Canada (2nd in North America, after the 1st on Cape Cod). We had a lovely drive down to this site over the Cape Smokey Mountain which was really a spectacular drive. The ocean views were staggering and the road was so twisty-turny that it was hard to imagine how it had ever been built. When we reached the St. Anne River, we had a little surprise and a delight — we had to use a tiny car ferry to cross the last ¼ mile (after an apparently natural causeway had taken us the majority of the way). The cost was $5.00 per car and the ride couldn ’ t have taken more than 5 minutes, if that. The tiny ferry carried probably no more than 15 cars, but we were only two at our crossing.
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