In The Country and Town November 2022

Photo: Star Clippers/PA.

With a population of around 3,500, Ponza remains fairly quiet for most of the year and maintains a small-town atmosphere.

We take a few hours to relax off the ship before heading back in time for sailaway at 3pm.The wind has picked up and, as it’s the last full day of the cruise, the word goes out that the captain will allow guests to take to the tenders to photograph Star Clipper under full sail.Armed with our cameras, we watch the extraordinary sight of the crew hoisting all 16 sails up the ship’s four masts.The wind by now is presenting ideal sailing conditions, the anchor comes up and she’s off, picking up speed and keeling gently into the wind. She is slowed to allow us back safely on board, where the gusty wind and warm sun make way for a glorious sunset. Guests are encouraged to lie in the bowsprit net suspended above the sea and try to spot dolphins and to climb the 32 rungs to the crow’s nest, secured by a safety harness, although the wind by now is so brisk that we miss the opportunity.

Not that it matters, as the experience of sitting on the deck as the sun goes down, nothing but the sound of the wind and the sails and the gulls overhead to interrupt the endless expanse of blue sea ahead, is exciting enough.

Rum punch in hand, I stay on deck until dark with the wind blowing in my face, absorbing the beauty of tall ship travel, a newly-converted sailing enthusiast.

20 | mccarthyholden.co.uk

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