EATING OUR FEELINGS
him toward culinary arts. Even though he had a girlfriend in To- ronto, he was hesitant to move there to study at George Brown Polytechnic. “You know how Montrealers are. We don’t like to leave Montreal. He said, I don’t want to leave Bubbie and Zayde. And I was like, You’re gonna have to leave Bubbie and Zayde one day. ” Like many cooking school students, Elana says, he already thinks he knows everything. “At 24, it’s like, ‘Mommy, you should be doing this. Mom- my, you should be doing that.’” Elana laughs. “I’m like, ‘Okay, I’ve only been standing here for 20 years, but I’ll hear what you have to say.’ Because I also ap- preciate that he’s bringing me his experiences. I love hearing what he has to say. And I try re- ally hard to make him feel a part of things, because I don’t know if he’ll be the next generation. I don’t know if he’ll take over.” The usual path for this type of business, founded by immi- grants 80 years ago, is for the second generation to grudg- ingly take over, and the third to pursue different careers; it’s al- ready unusual for Elana to still be running the family restau- rant. The common part of the story is a multi-generation- al family restaurant with no clear plan of succession. But there’s hope. It doesn’t hurt that Elana has raised someone who not only shares her passion for food but is getting an education that would set him up to take over the family business. “I want him to feel that it’s his choice,” says Elana. “I don’t want it to feel that it’s his obligation.”
MISHMASH EGGS SERVES 2
In my household, if there was any- thing left from dinner, my father would say, “We’ll fry it up with eggs for breakfast.” Beautys mishmash omelette is the epitome of that sort of menu planning. In this case, the eggs are a delivery mechanism for caramelized onions. If you’ve never made these before, just slice an onion thinly, throw it in a pan with a splash of oil, and let it cook on the lowest heat, stirring only occasionally until it is soft, sweet, and translucent. It will take about an hour.
3 slices salami, cut into strips 1 hot dog, cut into discs ½ green pepper, sautéed ¼ cup caramelized onions 3 eggs Splash of olive oil
INSTRUCTIONS In a mixing bowl, whisk the eggs, then add all the other ingredients. (Note: the salami and hot dogs pro- vide plenty of salt; there’s no need to add any additional seasoning.) In a wide pan on medium heat, add a splash of oil, and pour in the egg mixture. Cook until firm, about one minute. Flip and cook through, maybe one more minute. Fold in half and enjoy with coleslaw and a Montreal bagel.
5786 ַקִיץ 39
FOOD/PROP STYLING/PHOTOGRAPHY MARISA CURATOLO
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