RITAM SRBIJE / RHYTHM OF SERBIA
SUMMER ADREN ALINE DELIGHTS Serbian rivers for new adventures In a country where rivers are viewed as companions, sources of inspiration and the perfect excuse to flee the office, a summer without at least one day on the water seems totally wrong W hen the tempera- tures rise and the baking tarmac radi- ates its own climate, the people of Serbia don’t seek a solution in air-conditioned shopping centres — but rather on riv- ers! Welcome to the aquatic life of Serbia — organic, fun and most often spiced up with local music and beans from a caul- dron. Grab an oar, jump aboard a raft and let the river carry you. Be a captain at least once this year. Without maps and plans, but with a smile. RAFTING THE TARA Nature that requires no advertising This river, forming part of the natural border between Serbia and Montene- gro, has been synonymous with rafting around the region for decades. But for- get wooden rafts — here it’s about real whitewater rafting. The river Tara, which is also known as the “Tear of Europe”, boasts one of the deepest canyons in the world and provides an experience that’s more reminiscent of a wilderness doc- umentary than a tourist attraction. The route usually starts near the Brštanovica reservoir and concludes at Šćepan Polje. You are awaited along this approximate- ly 18-kilometre-long stretch by exciting rapids (class III and IV), crystal-clear wa- ter and enough adrenaline to reset all your workdays of the previous month. Here there’s no make-up and no mobile reception — and that’s the point. If you don’t fancy a full-on expedition, there’s
MERRY DESCENT OF THE IBAR Medieval charm and rubber dinghies Kraljevo has its own star river — the Ibar. Each summer sees the holding of the Merry Descent, when the river is trans- formed into a column of several thousand rowers, floaters, barbecue grillers and en- thusiasts who celebrate the Ibar in such a way that we’re reminded that rivers are still the main social gathering points in the Balkans. The route runs from Maglič to Kraljevo — a distance of approximately 25 kilometres that starts under the ram- parts of the medieval fortress. The waters of the Ibar are calmer than those of the Tara, but are still sufficiently restless to ensure you won’t get bored. Kraljevo is a wonderful base for explor- ing — nearby are the UNESCO-protected monasteries of Žiča and Studenica, but also the mountains of Goč and Stolovi for when you’ve had your fill of the water. Added bonus: Not far from Kraljevo is the Morava International Airport, which is served by Air Serbia, so you can also ar- rive by plane for the Merry Descent. AND A FEW MORE GEMS If you prefer tranquillity, the Great Mora- va lacks nothing either. Relaxed descents and gatherings along the river are organ- ised in the area around Ćuprija and Ja- godina during summer, while the Tamiš near Pančevo offers a completely different atmosphere — more of a fishing and con- templative vibe, ideal for those who’d rath- er fish than row. If you arrive in Vojvodina, try descending the Tisza near Bečej or Ti- tel — where the river is viewed more as an old friend than a sporting challenge.
also a “light” version for families, with more enjoyment of the scenery than the struggle with forces of rushing water. And along the route? You could encoun- ter a mountain goat on a cliff, or you might encounter nothing — other than tranquil nature. DRINA REGATTA Water carnival This event isn’t a regatta in the classi- cal sense. There is no finish line and no winner. And actually, the main prize of Bajina Bašta’s Drina Regatta is a good time. Thousands of people gather each July to head down the Drina on boats, rafts and wooden vessels that are bare- ly able to hold their course... And also on something that could be most close- ly described as a floating living room. Don’t worry if you missed it this year, because the Drina is always naviga- ble and can certainly also be enjoyed in a million other ways. Just come and you’ll see. And the surrounding area? Bajina Baš- ta is the right base for exploration — and there’s also the Drina river house perched on a rock that’s probably the most photographed phenomenon on the Drina, but also the entrance to Tara Na- tional Park, where you can cool off by hiking to the Banjska Stena observation point. It’s interesting to note that the Drina has shifted course over the centu- ries — so much so that some villages are said to have been known to cross from one country to the other without anyone moving. Wondering how? The winding Drina would ask itself, if it wasn’t being constantly corrected .
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