MUTED PALETTE Roses are fresh, gold is liquid, and legs are short
Exploring contemporary beauty and the key trends of spring/summer fashion that you need to know
T he collection discussed the most during fashion shows for the upcoming season didn’t even have its own fashion show presentation. The collection in question represents the great comeback of Phoe- be Philo, who is presenting a line bearing her name for the first time since vacating her previous posi- tion as creative director of Celine. Many designers feared that their latest creations would be eclipsed by a spontaneous digital drop from this woman who many consider to be the Messiah of fashion. Specifically, in her own sophisticatedly subversive way, Phoebe decided that this new collec- tion would be sold exclusively via her own website, and with extremely rigorous limits on the quantities and size differences that can be ordered by a single person. This measured tactic is exceptionally effec- tive at combatting resellers of broadly hyped luxury items from limited-edition series - but it also caus- es trouble for the countless adoring fans of her de- signs who would like the opportunity to view them in person, or at least to know what size fits them be- fore they click to order her famous zip trousers that cost more than a thousand euros a pair. They can, however, trust Phoebe’s judgement, as she’s one of the few prominent fashion industry fig- ures who’ve intuitively always known “what women want”. And, in all honesty, there currently aren’t many women at the helm of the fashion houses that define mainstream prestige: Sarah Burton has departed Al- exander McQueen and Gabriela Hearst has also left Chloé. At LVMH, the world’s largest luxury conglom- erate, only Dior and Pucci have female creative direc- tors, while that number is zero when it comes to its main market competitor, the Kering conglomerate. In an atmosphere of such demoralising disparity, but also an equally sobering economic and political situation, designers played it safe with their spring/ summer 2024 offerings. The palette was muted, with black and white appearing in places that we would ordinarily expect to be occupied by intensely opti- mistic hues. Retina-searing red was one of the few tones that managed to distinguish itself, serving as
Kod „Ralfa Lorena“ Kristi Tarlington podseća na živu Oskar statuu u haljini od ’tečnog zlata’ At Ralph Lauren, Christy Turlington resembled a living Oscar statue in a “liquid gold” gown
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