Moda
Fashion
40 GLAMUROZNIH ŽENA / 40 GLAMOROUS WOMEN Legendarna fotka za istoriju mode Legendary photo to the history of fashion Martovsko izdanje britanskog „Voga“ sa nezaboravnom naslovnom stranom, poslednji je broj ovog magazina koji uređuje Edvard Eninful / This March’s edition of British Vogue is the last issue of this magazine to be edited by Edward Enninful
EDVARD ENINFUL UPISAO SE U ISTORIJU kao prvi muškarac i prvi tamnoputi glavni urednik britanskog „Voga“. Tokom staža od šest i po godina u modnoj bibliji budio je emocije, preispitivao pre- drasude i otvarao diskusije, ostavivši trajan trag na celu modnu industriju. Za sam kraj, pre nego što pređe na savetničku ulo- gu u globalnoj mreži „Conde Nast“, pripremio je na- slovnu stranu za pamćenje. Na njoj se našlo 40 fas- cinantnih žena okupljenih pred objektivom Stivena Majsela: supermodeli Iman, Linda Evanđelista, Iri- na Šajk, Kristi Tarlington... Zatim njihove nasledni- ce nove generacije poput Điđi Hadid, plus dve gene- racije modeling gena – Kejt Mos i Sindi Kraford sa ćerkama... Tu su vesnice promene u modelingu po- put Advoe Aboe, kao i glumice Selma Bler i Salma Hajek... Iz sveta muzike stigla je Majli Sajrus, doš- la je modna ikona Viktorija Bekam, kao i apsolutne legende Džejn Fonda, Serena Vilijams i Opra Vinfri. Spomenuli smo samo neke, ali vi ih slobodno prepo- znajte sve na ovoj legendarnoj fotografiji. – Kada je došlo vreme za moj poslednji broj, znao sam da naslovna mora biti posvećena ženama. Naravno! Žene su oblikovale britanski „Vog“ posled- njih 108 godina i zasigurno obeležile svaki mome- nat mog boravka u magazinu. Da i ne pominjem u kojoj meri su me vodile i usmeravale kroz ceo život – istakao je Eninful. – Kada je izašla moja prva naslovna strana sa Advo- om Aboom, tamnoputom manekenkom i aktivistki- njom, to je bio šok za sistem. „Vog“ ima veliku spo- sobnost da se bavi društvom kroz modu na direktniji i značajniji način nego što je iko mogao da zamisli. Nekada sinonim za blaziranu buržoaziju, „Vog“ se poslednjih godina zaista menjao baš kao i global- ne prilike. Prva 80-godišnjakinja koja se pojavila na naslovnici bila je Džudi Denč, Lavern Koks je 2019. postala prva, ali ne i poslednja transrodna osoba ko- ja se pridružila grupi od 14 drugih briljantnih žena u izdanju „Forces for Change“. – Ponekad je naš posao bio da unesemo malo rasterećenosti, lepote i skretanja pažnje na zabavu. Ponekad se nismo bojali da se direktno suočimo sa problemima sa kojima se i društvo suočavalo – ka- že Eninful .
EDWARD ENNINFUL INSCRIBED HIMSELF IN THE HISTORY books as the first man and first black editor-in-chief of British Vogue. His six-and-a- half-year tenure at this fashion bible aroused emotions, challenged prejudices and launched discussions, leaving an enduring mark on the fashion industry as a whole. For his last hurrah, prior to moving on to an adviso- ry role at the global Condé Nast network, he prepared a memorable cover page. It features 40 fascinating wom- en gathered in front of the lens of Steven Meisel: super- models Iman, Linda Evangelista, Irina Shayk, Christy Turlington... Their successors from the new generation, like Gigi Hadid, plus two generations of modeling genes: in Kate Moss and Cindy Crawford together with their daughters... There are heralds of the shift in modeling like Adwoa Aboah, as well as actresses Selma Blair and Salma Hayek... Miley Cyrus arrived from the world of music, fashion icon Victoria Beckham came, as did ab- solute legends Jane Fonda, Serena Williams and Oprah Winfrey. We have mentioned just a few, but feel free to recognise them all in this legendary photo. “When it came to my last issue, I knew the cover would be dedicated to women. Of course! Women have shaped British Vogue for close to 108 years now, and have certainly informed every moment of my six-and-a- half-year tenure here, to say nothing of leading and guid- ing me through my entire life,” noted Enninful, adding: “When my first cover came out – featuring Adwoa Aboah, a Black model and activist – it was seen as a shock to the system… [We discovered that] Vogue had an untapped capacity to reflect and engage with socie- ty through fashion in a more head-on and meaningful way than any of us had imagined.” Once synonymous with the blasé bourgeoisie, Vogue has really changed in recent years, just like global circum- stances. Dame Judi Dench became the first octogenari- an to appear on the cover, and in 2019 Laverne Cox be- came the first, but not the last, transgender person to join a group of 14 other brilliant women in the Forces for Change edition. “Fashion is never immune to the tumult of life, and sometimes our job was to bring a little levity, beauty and distraction to bear. At other times, I hope we wer- en’t afraid to engage with the issues society was facing head on,” says Edward.
Brzo sam naučio najvažniju lekciju – pronađi hrabrost u sebi, jer kada se sve sabere, najvažniji uticaj koji možeš da imaš kao urednik „Voga“ jeste da promeniš stvari, kaže Edvard Eninful “I soon learned the most important lesson of all: find your bravery, because when you boil it down, the most crucial impact you can have as a Vogue editor is to change things up”, says Edward Enninful
Tekst / Words: Ivan Radojčić Fotografije / Photography: British Vogue
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