DINEWISE WITH JASON WALSH
Bungalow Kitchen by Michael Mina
Bungalow Kitchen presents itself as an elegant clubhouse. S ofas, throw pillows, a pool table—if these elements bring to mind a comfy neighborhood clubhouse more than exquisite fine dining, don’t hold it against Bungalow Kitchen. That’s partly the plan. Bungalow Kitchen opened on the Tiburon waterfront in 2021 as the latest in chef Michael Mina’s Mina Group portfolio of now more than 40 restaurants in the U.S.—and the first in Mina’s home county of Marin. The restaurant, located in the Main Street space formerly occupied by Guaymas—markets itself as a “social dining experience and lively community clubhouse”—and the design by Martin Brudnizki of AD100 manages to capture that essence in creative and eye-catching ways. Fireplaces, armchairs, bookshelves with titles ranging from Melville to Margaret Atwood set the mood, while wood floors, wicker baskets, potted plants and natural fibers make for relaxed, comfortable spaces, many replete with sprawling views of the San Francisco Bay. If smoking jackets and capris were still in fashion, you’d see them here. (Mina’s partner in the venture is Brent Bolthouse, who’s opened other clubby-style Bungalow restaurants in Southern California, but with more of a beachy flair.) While Bungalow Kitchen’s ambience can be described as laid back, its service and kitchen are anything but. Caviar “bites” have their own section on the dinner menu, while the house burger ($25) is made with ground Wagyu, the Japanese-originated beef widely considered the tastiest available. Mina’s restaurants don’t take
their eyes off cuisine—and Bungalow even features some of its namesake’s signature dishes. Speaking of which, we started with a plate of Michael Mina’s Ahi tuna tartare ($31) and a bite of his signature “mini” caviar parfait ($56)—both deliciously showcasing his reputation for deftly balancing spice with sweetness. The tartare features mint, pine nuts and Asian pear and was prepared right at our table with our server dicing the raw Ahi up with garlic and a peppery sesame oil, shaping it all into a neat, center-plate triangle alongside the several accompanying pita wedges. The parfait, meanwhile, offered a dizzying array of flavors and textures. The multi-layered concoction featured tiers of crispy potato pancake, smoked salmon, quail egg and crème fraiche topped with the sea-saltiness of the sturgeon eggs—a genuine conversation stopper of a starter. The wine list is a worldly mix, with labels ranging from nearby— Napa Valley, Russian River and the Sonoma Coast are represented— to Rhone Valley, Tuscany, Spain and other historic wine regions of western Europe. One Riesling available on our visit was from Maximin Grunhaus, a German estate dating back to the time of Charlemagne. Still, the overall vibe at Bungalow is less Charlemagne and more Charles Mingus—with rooms within the two-level building dedicated to private dining events that require its own sound system (the Listening Room), a lounge for cocktails and billiards The house burger features Wagyu beef and cheddar cheese, served with crinkle- cut fries.
52 NorthBaybiz
February 2024
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