Zuidam’s choice to use 100% rye isn’t an obvious one for most North American distilleries. The rules regarding rye whisky (and indeed all whisky) vary between countries, with US guidelines being clearest. Theirs must include at least 51% rye and be aged in charred new oak. There is no 100% rye category. The Netherlands doesn’t have its own whisky regulations, instead deferring to those of the EU and oddly, you won’t find the word ‘rye’ anywhere. The only actual grain mentioned is barley, specified for single malt production. Canadian whisky laws are even more relaxed about ingredients and percentages. They need some rye of course but the regulations mainly state that distillers produce the aroma[s], taste and character generally attributed to Canadian whisky. As Canadian whisky writer Davin deKergommeaux puts it, Canadian rye makers aim for something elegant and balanced. Their whiskey doesn’t hit you in the face like American rye or (in my opinion) Millstone, whose sweet punch should immediately entice fans of US rye whiskies”. While all these regulations provide structure, distillers still have to make many choices before their rye is poured into your glass. Beyond the overall percentage, malted compared to unmalted rye is more spicy and intense and pot distillation preserves heavier fruit and grain aromas while column distillation strips these away. The US even has distinct ‘rye malts’, though examples such as Old Maysville Club and Old Potrero are rare. Wherever they come from, navigating all these methods is key to finding new and exciting rye whiskies. Canadian Master Blender Don Livermore stresses this when explaining the approach behind his own pot-distilled rye whisky - Lot 40. Canadian distillers normally distil each grain separately before blending them, so: “Don’t ask a Canadian distiller the mash bill”, Livermore warns. The answer you are looking for is how is it distilled and what is the overall percentage of rye, and Lot 40 is a great example. Unlike the other Canadian brands it’s made from 100% unmalted rye. Even at 40% ABV, it ends up notably spicy, with pot distillation concentrating
the fruity, grainy rye notes which Livermore believes truly make Lot 40 special.
Let’s apply this mindset to European rye to help you better understand and explore them. While Millstone is arguably the vanguard of European ryes, it’s certainly not alone. Besides many small, local producers across the continent, big names are emerging. Worth noting – Denmark’s Stauning and Kyrö in Finland.
All three distilleries age their rye in new American oak. The rich vanilla, caramel sweetness this wood provides just can’t be beaten for balancing the rich flavours of European rye and despite all starting with local rye these three distilleries subsequently diverge. • Zuidam - 49% malted and 51% unmalted rye grains = Bold fruit and spicy undertones • Stauning – Blends barley into its US style mash bill = Light and approachable pot-distilled rye • Kyrö - 100% malted rye = Earthy, spicy, and completely unique profile This is simply the entry to a rabbit hole of rye whisky, a world which keeps expanding exponentially every day. Classic American and Canadian ryes are clearly not going anywhere, so take the time to start with some European ryes and taste this new frontier.
Millstone, Stauning and Kyrö are all available in Canada (Alberta or Ontario, $100 apx.)
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the whisky explorer magazine
WINTER 2024
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