After the grapes have been picked and pressed—in some cases, the pressing is still done by foot—a high-alcohol grape spirit is added to stop the fermentation, preserving sweetness and giving you a fortified (aka higher in alcohol) wine. Then the wine goes through different aging processes that result in many different flavours and styles of port. There are white ports, rosés, rubies, and tawnies. The idea that port is only for dessert is incorrect, as it can be used throughout an entire meal. There is even a famous cocktail called Portonic. White port loves oily appetizers like smoked salmon and olives. Foie gras or liver paté are great with a young tawny. Vintage port is excellent served with game, or earthy-type dishes like a mushroom risotto. However, port really is one of the best choices out there for desserts like chocolate mousse; creme brulée; and rich, creamy cheeses like brie and blue. The production of port is steeped in history, but the people of the Douro have adapted with modern wine preferences. Those same grapes that make an exquisite fortified treat are also used to make dry table wines in red, white, and rosé colours. The whites are full-bodied, with citrus and floral notes, similar in style to Chardonnay; the reds are full-bodied and robust like a Cabernet and also have a great potential for aging. The rosés have floral and red fruit notes, but are more similar to rosés from Spain than those from France. They even make sparkling port for bubbleheads like me! Just south of the Douro Valley is an up-and-coming wine region called the Dão. I think it’s producing some of the most interesting wines in the country. They produce what’s a rarity in Portuguese wine: single-varietal wines from a white variety called Encruzado, which reminds me of Chablis, and
reds from Touriga Nacional, which has beautiful bouquets of violets and eucalyptus. The red and white wines are both high in acidity, making them perfect for food. These are just a few of the different wines from Portugal to explore. I didn’t even touch on the slightly effervescent Vinho Verdes of the north, or the island wines from the Azores and Madeira—but, if you get a chance, give them a try. We may not be able to fly to these places yet, but a great wine has the unique ability to transport you to the place it was grown by simply opening the bottle.
grows in the sandy soils near the ocean. In its youth, it has that “tea that has been steeped too long” sensation we winos call “tannins.” However, the winemakers don’t release the wine into the market until those tannins have softened, so you’re left with a savoury combination of herbal and salty flavours, making Colares ideal for the smoky, intense flavours of the sardines. My five days in Lisbon were filled with long walks, long stares at street art, and long meals that lasted late into the nights. My favourite meal was at a little wine bar called Senhor Uva; it turned out to belong to a Quebec- raised Portuguese couple. I met Luis and Eduarda of Vadio Wine there and fell head-over-heels for their wines. They make organic wines in an area called Bairrada from a grape called Baga. We started with their sparkling wine, and it reminded me of the great Champagne producer Gaston Chiquet. Then we had their red. Rather than give you a tasting note, I decided to compare that wine to celebrity Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, because it’s a strong, powerful, meaty wine but is also suave and elegant—coupled with the fact that I wanted to hold it close and never let it go. When I found out that it had arrived in Nova Scotian liquor stores, I couldn’t help but buy a case. But wait, there’s more—you’ll be able to buy Vadio at the Founders’ Hall store here in PEI too! After Lisbon, I took a train up to the Douro Valley, the region that produces Portugal’s most famous wine, port. First, let me briefly explain what port is. Port is made from a blend of grapes—115 varieties of red and white grapes are allowed to be used to make port. In some cases, the winemaker doesn’t even know what grapes are in each row. They just pick, press, and ferment it all together into what’s called a “field blend.”
Lesley Quinn was born and raised in Prince Edward Island. Her first opportunity in wine came as Junior Sommelier at the Ritz-Carlton in the Cayman Islands. They supported her as she completed the first two levels of the Court of Master Sommeliers to become a Certified Sommelier. Work has taken her to Calgary, Vancouver, Halifax, and Turkey. Wine has taken her to France, Italy, Austria, Portugal, Chile, and California. In 2017 she won the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers Top Somm Competition Atlantic division. Now back on PEI, she’s sharing her knowledge under the guise of Stellar Somm Wine Experts. Ask her what her favourite wine is and she says “I love all my babies equally.” Want to learn more about wine? Head to www.stellarsomm.com ▲ Lesley Quinn (Photo: Kimberly Rashed) CMS & FWS SOMMELIER 2017 Atlantic Canada Top Sommelier 403.835.5939
SPRING 2020 www.pei-living.ca
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