2022/2023 de Boulle Magazine

BLACK BAY PRO Tudor presents a new technical model with a whole new aesthetic. Named Black Bay Pro, it has a 39-millimeter diameter, a fixed steel bezel and a Manufacture Caliber with built-in GMT function.

tion. These two aesthetic details are found on the current bracelet, which also integrates modern manufactur- ing methods with solid links and la- ser-finished rivet-style heads. Finally, the Black Bay Pro is also available with a hybrid strap in black rubber and leather with a folding clasp. THE ESSENCE OF BLACK BAY The Black Bay line features dials in- spired by the TUDOR divers’ watch - es produced during the 1950s. It bor- rows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its unprotect- ed crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first gener - ations of TUDOR divers’ watches. The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-re- lease of a classic, it brings together over sixty years of TUDOR divers’ watches at the same time as being resolutely anchored in the present. Whilst it is neo-vintage in conception, its manufacturing techniques, reli- ability, robustness and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.

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Black Bay Pro is an entirely new model with a dual time zone fea- ture, a technical complication that establishes local time without los- ing sight of the time in another time zone. Compact, robust and sporty, this model boasts many unique aesthetic details and celebrates the spirit of the technical watches that TUDOR has produced for professionals through- out its history. Recognizable by its 24- hour graduated satin-brushed fixed bezel and its yellow 24-hour “Snow- flake” hand, Black Bay Pro is powered by the TUDOR Manufacture Caliber MT5652 with built-in GMT function. ADVENTURER SPIRIT & TECHNICAL AESTHETICS T hroughout their history, TUDOR watches have been chosen by some of the boldest adventurers, like the 30 explorers who embarked on the two- year British North Greenland Expedi - tion to study Arctic ice exactly 70 years ago, with TUDOR watches on their wrists. Brand founder Hans Wilsdorf supplied watches for the members of the expedition. He had just created the first waterproof and self-winding TU - DOR watch, the Oyster Prince model,

and couldn’t imagine a better environ - ment for testing it than the extreme cli- mate of the Arctic. The Black Bay Pro model reflects the heritage of those in - struments used by the pioneering ex- plorers. This is a tool-watch designed for professional use. Whilst this model is part of the Black Bay line, it introduces many new and unique aesthetic details, starting with its winding crown which has been en- tirely redesigned for maximum grip. Reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand’s historical technical watches, this new compo- nent is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible. In another new feature, the applied hour markers on the dial are made from monobloc luminous ceramic. This fea- ture enhances the technical aesthetic of Black Bay Pro whilst considerably increasing the luminous surface of the hour markers. A new bracelet clasp, with a TUDOR “T-fit” rapid size-ad - justment system, completes the list of new innovations included in this mod- el. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, the “T-fit” sys - tem allows the wearer to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of up to 8mm

on the clasp. TWO TIME ZONES

some, but a must for watchmaking purists.

STEEL BRACELET, JACQUARD-WOVEN OR LEATHER STRAP The fabric strap is one of the hall- marks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. Woven in France using a tradition- al method on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufactur- ing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. In 2020, TUDOR celebrat - ed ten years of collaboration with the hundred-and-fifty-year-old Julien Faure company. The partnership be- gan with the launch of Heritage Chro- no, the first model fitted with a fab - ric strap created by the craftsmen, at Baselworld 2010. For the Black Bay Pro, TUDOR has selected a black strap with a yellow band woven by these traditional craftsmen. The model is also available with a stainless steel bracelet inspired by the folding riveted bracelets made by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having visible rivet heads on the side of the bracelet that held the links together. The links also had a distinct stepped construc-

On the Black Bay Pro model, the ref- erence time is indicated by an angular yellow “Snowflake” hand, an aesthetic hallmark of TUDOR, which completes a lap of the dial every 24 hours. Local time is indicated by another, short- er “Snowflake” hand set by a jump - ing hour, which can be moved either backwards or forwards. The date, displayed through an aperture po- sitioned at 3 o’clock, is coupled with the local time hand so that when set- ting the time and passing midnight in retrograde, it instantly jumps to the previous day. A highly unusual, so- phisticated and particularly practical function for the user. THE CALIBER MT5652 The Manufacture Calibre MT5652 with built-in GMT function was de- veloped by TUDOR for the Black Bay Pro model. It illustrates the technical development process which is unique to TUDOR, drawing on adaptable ar - chitecture capable of including new functions into its manufactured move- ments rather than resorting to addi- tional modules. A minor detail for

It has been designed to ensure ro- bustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has its variable iner- tia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, the Manufacture Caliber MT5652 is certified as a chronometer by the Offi - cial Swiss Chronometer Testing Insti- tute (COSC), with its performance go- ing beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of be- tween -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled. Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Caliber MT5652 is “weekend-proof”, about 70 hours. This enables the wear- er to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.

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