Trout Brook Landscaping - March/April 2023

TAKE A BREAK

“The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago . The second-best time is now.” –Chinese Proverb Each time a client removes a yard tree, I always encourage the homeowner to replant a new one that has the potential to shade the house in the future. I believe it’s our covenant with future generations to replace tall-growing, shady trees. When it comes time to replace your tree, I can share some great storm-resilient, dense wood species that thrive in our New England climate, along with methods to grow and establish these trees in your front yard. Tall-Growing Hardwood Trees 45–80 Feet • Sugar Maple A Comprehensive Tree Planting Guide From the Expert’s Mouth

• American Yellowwood • American Linden Tree • American Elm

• Red Maple • White Oak

I recommend watering 2–3 times a week with a low- flowing hose on the tree for 60–90 seconds. Unlike a sprinkler system, watering by hose gives enough water to go deep and blanket the root-ball. (A regular sprinkler does not go down 12 inches into the ground.) In the second year, continue to water during long sunny days of spring and summer. Sleep, Creep, and Leap I like to say the tree “sleeps” the first year after planting. Then the second year it “creeps.” And in the third year it “leaps” in growth. Sleep, creep, and leap. A small potted tree will actually outgrow a larger one in height and width in a few years. Root damage from transplant is harmful, and keeping an intact root system during transplant is so important that a 15-foot tree will be outgrown by a 5-foot tree of the same species within a few years’ time. Pruning to ‘Train’ Future Growth Finally, in years 3-5, when that tree is “leaping” in growth, I recommend a “structural pruning.” Structural pruning is done by removing the first two lower branches and reducing the upper side branches that try to compete with the central leader. This kind of pruning prevents heavy-weighted outward- growing branches, which can burden the tree later in life and cause storm damage. You want your tree to grow straighter and stronger like it would when reaching for light in the forest. Take care of your trees and they will take care of you and your property for years to come. Happy planting!

Smaller Trees 15–25 Feet • Kousa Dogwood • Flowering Crabapple

• Japanese Stewartia • “Saucer” Magnolia

Tree Planting and Nurturing Tips Planting and establishing a tree takes two years, with the tree needing consistent weekly watering. To Plant a Tree The new tree needs a hole deep enough to sit the tree level with the ground so its trunk flare is above the surrounding soil, not buried below. The hole also needs to be about twice the width of the root ball of the new tree. If the hole is too deep the first time, just backfill the bottom with some loose soil so the flare of the tree sits even with the ground. The trunk of the tree does not like to be buried in the soil, as it can rot. Speaking of trunk damage, the next major thing we have to protect against is weed whacker and lawn mower damage. This is done by making a small mulched area (roughly 3–4 feet in diameter) around the tree so no grass can grow against the trunk. Why Watering Matters, Even if It Rains After planting a tree in your yard, there is a two-year period when the tree will try to regrow feeder roots to ensure it can absorb enough water. When a tree is cut into a ball in the field, it loses up to 90% of its feeder root structure with which it gathers water. It then takes two years for the tree to reestablish this “close-to-the-surface” fibrous root system, and the tree will need hand watering during this time.

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