2023/2024 deBoulle Collection Magazine

known as “Snowflake”, introduced by the brand in 1969 to increase the intensity of the luminescence of its watches in poor light conditions. It also features a unidirectional rotating bezel with a sand-blasted ceramic insert with luminescent material. Its 42mm titanium case is waterproof to 200 meters and is entirely sat- in-brushed to produce a matt effect to limit light reflections. A FABRIC STRAP IN PURE NAVY STYLE Historically, the US Navy oftentimes had their divers fit their TUDOR watches with fabric straps, typical- ly one-piece ones in black or green made out of nylon. The two straps of the Pelagos FXD nod to this military custom of wearing watches on straps rather than bracelets, with a twist. A one-piece green fabric strap with red central thread and self-gripping fastening system comes as the flag- ship configuration, while an addi- tional black embossed fabric-motif one-piece rubber strap brings a fresh subtle take to a classic look. The one-piece fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which in 2010 became one of the first watch- making brands to offer it with its watches. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality, ro- bustness and comfort on the wrist are unique. For the Pelagos FXD model, a highly technical strap construction was developed by TUDOR and Julien Faure. Made up of a 22mm forest green nylon woven ribbon with a red central thread, a titanium “D” buckle and a self-gripping fastening system, it adapts to different wrist sizes and is very comfortable to wear. THE MANUFACTURE CALIBER MT5602 The Manufacture Caliber MT5602 that drives the Pelagos FXD mod- el displays the hours, minutes and seconds functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibers: its rotor in tungsten mono- bloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, while its

bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations. Its build has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliabil- ity and precision, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the Manufacture Caliber MT5602 is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its perfor- mance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily running of a watch of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time in a single movement, TUDOR insists on be- tween -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its running when it is completely assembled. Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Caliber MT5602 is “weekend-proof”; that is to say about 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it. Shop the TUDOR Collection in our Dallas location or at deBoulle.com

very large quantities, in a number of references, were delivered over a span of multiple decades. A UNIQUE SET OF SPECIFICATIONS Initially developed in conjunction with active duty combat swimmers, the Pelagos FXD case is based on a set of specifications that are as precise as they are demanding. For this reason, it includes some functional features that are unique in the TUDOR col- lection, such as its fixed strap bars, which are directly machined into the main body of the 42mm titanium case for increased robustness and reliability. Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the model’s characteristic silhouette. Another fea- ture of this model is the ergonomic 60-notch rotating bezel. Unidirection- al with a luminescent material-filled 60-minute-graduated ceramic in- sert, it corresponds to ISO standard 6425:2018 for divers’ watches. In aesthetic terms, this Pelagos FXD model is inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches historically used by US Navy personnel in the late 60’s through early 80’s. It is black in color and has the characteristic square hour markers and angular hands,


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