To an impressive modern space at
Brown has steered away from traditional techniques and Japanese ingredients and introduced new products that really suit this kind of cooking, such as beef cheeks with spicy Korean miso, pickled daikon and butter lettuce. Another firm favourite is the cobia collar, which is taken from the neck of a black compachi fish. 'It’s usually a by-product, but it’s a very delicious piece and we cook it on the robata grill with brown butter ponzu,' explains Brown. 'It’s a very firm and slightly oily white fish, similar to tuna, and it’s really delicious.' Brown and his other cooks used to have it for breakfast before they started work but then realised it tasted too good to be used for that. Brown says that Japanese restaurants in London tend to be either top-end, with premium products, or more casual and takeaway-focused. 'Our mission was to find a spot in the middle where we can become more accessible to everyday dining.'
55 Broadwick Street comes a new take on traditional Japanese food, with a menu by Hamish Brown created to tantalise your taste buds. INKO NITO is an open- plan venue with communal tables, good music and a chilled-out atmosphere, with the robata grill taking centre stage. It’s the kind of place where you can while away an evening with friends over food and cocktails or nip in for a quick bite at lunchtime and remain incognito. Brown, who originates from New Zealand, grew up around cooking he describes as ‘the godfather of fusion cooking'. He says: 'We needed somewhere big enough to have a robata grill (a Japanese barbecue often found in pubs in Japan), in the middle of the restaurant. This location was perfect, and the layout lends itself to the whole food-sharing concept. We wanted to create something new and different with a street market feel, and food with action-packed, big and bold flavours.' (his dad being a chef) and worked alongside Peter Gordon, whom
Hamish Brown
East Meets West
Interview Tom Bottomley
At Carnaby’s latest Japanese restaurant INKO NITO, Head Chef Hamish Brown has ripped up the rule book and introduced a unique dining experience.
Mission accomplished.
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