Napa Insider
Taste off By Christina Julian
W hen my fentanyl advocacy work with the awareness nonprofit Song for Charlie took me to All-Star Week in Arlington this summer, it seemed like a great excuse to check out the wines that Texas has to offer. After all, Lone Star State folks’ penchant for our wines and migration into the industry has been evolving for years. They descended on our valley, fell in love with the wines, and soon enough deep pockets and new wineries opened with Texans at the helm. Others soaked up our vineyard knowhow and brought it back home, as some local winemakers skipped town for cheap gas, housing and humid summer nights. Living in Calistoga I often run into tourists from Texas who are quick with one-liners, pats on the
way I am always scouting the perfect pizza slice in the valley (The Station in St. Helena takes top props right now), I also seek out bagels to rival my beloved David’s in NYC. It’s been hard to find any true contenders until I discovered Toasted, which is a great pinch-hitter and its own breed of bagel. Ariella Wolkowicz, an East Coast native who trained formally as a pastry chef, with experience at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery, launched her business at the Napa market in 2017. Since then, Toasted has branched out across the valley and wider Bay Area, satiating those who are ready to nosh on her traditional hand-rolled, cold-proofed, boiled and baked bagels. And yes, all of those nuances matter, in much the same way New York City water makes its pizza crust unmatched. Beyond all the bagel mainstay options you’d expect, she offers monthly specials like July’s
In search of the perfect bagel.
habanero pepperjack bagel with habanero mango cream cheese and the forthcoming pumpkin varietal with maple ginger cream cheese. The doughy delights are also available online for home delivery. Legacy and location Things haven’t felt quite the same since the iconic Robert Mondavi Winery closed for renovations in 2022. It was one of the first wineries I went to when I moved here, and I was one of the last to visit before the big closure signs went up along Highway 29. As many know, I’m not a fan of change, but upon a recent visit to Mondavi’s downtown tasting room digs, Arch & Tower, I found it be an inviting holdover until the Oakville space reopens in 2025. Situated along the Napa River at the historic stone Borreo Building, which dates back to 1887, the tasting room is everything the legacy space was not, all waterfront views and sleek contours and modern elegance inside. Tastings include a variety of experiences and food pairings that range from $78 on up to $198 per person. There are no vineyard views of course, but tasting on the terrace as breezes and paddleboarders float on by, is as sweet as the wines are smooth. With summer behind us, schools back in session, and a perilous election season on the horizon, Napa Valley wines and hospitality will remain a solid ground to stand on amid the hubbub. g
back and generous wine pours shared with strangers—as they reel me into debates over the merits of their wines, versus ours and talk turns to how everything is bigger and better in Texas. For our part, we leaned into the trope for a stint with big and bodacious, high-alcohol wines that rose in popularity thanks to a certain high profile wine critic and his disciples who helped perpetuate the trend, tilted wine goblets in hand. While it’s true that some things are in fact bigger in Texas (we’re talking 2-foot long stadium hotdogs, instead of one), I wasn’t convinced that everything is better there. On a break from tending our booth at the All-Star Village at Choctow Stadium, I took my tasting show on the road at Billy Can Can, dubbed a “saloon extraordinaire,” which was indeed a standout eating and drinking establishment. Several crispy oyster sliders and spicy slaw later, I was ready to dive into the wines. I started with the 2022 McPherson Cellars Viognier, from the Texas High Plains, which drank more like a chardonnay to me, but offered bright fruit and acidity. Definitely a lighter touch than my preferred Napa-style viogniers but enjoyable, and it paired nicely with the grilled octopus starter. I wanted to love my next pick, the Blanc du Bois from Los Pinos Ranch, but after just a sip, I had to be that person, and send it back. My final taste ended on a pleasant note with the William Chris 2019 Mourvèdre, rich with dark fruit flavors, and an old- world twang. A winner with the squid ink linguine, which was one of my favorite bites of the week, Hurtados BBQ aside. While it was fun to sip on the local “fruits” Texas has to offer, Napa Valley wines remain in a league all their own. A point I refrained from making to the roaring crowd at Globe Life Field when the American League cinched the All-Star Game.
After years in the technology and advertising trenches, Christina Julian traded city life for country and unearthed a new philosophy— life is complicated, wine and food shouldn’t be. Her debut novel, a romantic comedy called The Dating Bender , is now available. Learn more at christinajulian.com . You can reach her at cjulian@ northbaybiz.com.
Taste-off take two In other news you can chew on and compare—bagels. In much the same
September 2024
NorthBaybiz 31
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