Nick’s Cove 23240 Highway One Marshall, CA 94940 415.663.1033 Nickscove.com
Monday and Tuesday, noon to 8 p.m. Wednesday and Thursday, 11a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
the Great Recession in 2007. (He lost his shirt, describing the situation to investors as “a complete disaster.”) Of course, throughout its history other fires and rebuilds shaped Nick’s—during renovation in the 2000s, an endangered frog was found to inhabit the site, requiring various (and costly) protections—only adding to the restaurant’s lore. Current owner Highway 1 Hospitality acquired Nick’s in 2011. Executive Chef Matt Alfus helms a top-notch kitchen team which brings to life the menu created by consulting chef Chris Cosentino, a name foodies will recognize as a competitor on multiple Food Network shows (he even won Bravo’s Top Chef Masters ). According to the restaurant’s website, Cosentino’s menus are also known for “utilization of the entire animal whenever possible,” which is certainly a conversation starter. For our entrees, we stuck with animal portions of a familiar bend: New York steak and fish ‘n’ chips. The bone-in NY strip ($49) was a tender cut— cooked to order and less fatty than some New York strips—and livened by a super-savory salsa verde paste. Accompanying “smashed” potatoes featured crispy horseradish crumbles. The “Famous Cod Fish & Chips” ($24) is one of Nick’s staples—its salty, slightly citrusy batter perfect for pairing with malt vinegar. The chips are long and crispy, and don’t underestimate the side of cole slaw—a tangy recipe, one of the best we’ve tasted locally. Our server recommended the s’mores tart ($12) to end the meal—a sublime suggestion, it turned out. Topped with toasted marshmallow and bordered by a graham cracker crust, the smoked-chocolate filling was dense and creamy. Easily serves two. We finished the very fine meal with a stroll along the lengthy pier, ending shy of the fenced-off point where the scorched boathouse once stood. At its website, Nick’s says its accepting donations of vintage fishing and nautical items to replace all that was lost—which included antique fishing rods, glass buoys, wooden ship models, anchors, a giant tortoise shell and a 70-year-old piano for guests to play. In a thank you note for the community’s support, the restaurant vows, “We are doing everything
djacent to the restaurant on the Tomales Bay are several cozy vacation cottages. [Photo by Kristen Loken]
we can to rebuild this iconic structure.” Like we said, Nick’s endures. t
Jason Walsh is editor in chief of NorthBay biz magazine and northbaybiz.com. A North Bay native, he’s spent his career covering the news, lifestyles and people of Sonoma, Marin and Napa counties. When not up to his elbows in page proofs, you can find him and his family exploring all corners of the North Bay from their home base in Novato.
Nick’s offers two styles of clam chowder: Rhode Island clear, or New England creamy, above. [Photo by Gamma Nine Photography]
September 2024
NorthBaybiz 63
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