Some of the most beautiful places to see the fall colors in the Upper Peninsula are at small lakes and ponds where the beauty is doubled by reflections.
Taquamenon Falls, a wide straight waterfall, is beautifully framed by trees at an upper overlook.
elsewhere in the U.P. Of these, Sandstone Falls stood out as particularly unique. Rather than a wide straight waterfall like Taquamenon or a tall rippling cascade like Bond Falls, Sandstone Falls is more like a babbling brook that rushes over small rocks and makes quick turns left and right as it flows downstream. Huge flat boulders flank each side of the stream, and we spent several hours wandering around on these rocks. Even though the water gurgled continuously around us, a special tranquility filled the air and there wasn't another soul in sight. Nearby Rainbow Falls is another jewel in the Black River area. As we hiked from Black River Harbor through the woods to one of the waterfalls' overlooks, we were intrigued to find that we were on a portion of the 4,600-mile-long North Country National Scenic Trail that stretches from eastern New York to central South Dakota traversing seven states. As we hiked, we came across a metal box that contained maps and notes for through- hikers. What a thrill to know we were taking a few small steps on a trail that plays host to long distance hikers for a few months each summer. The Black River empties into Lake Superior at Black River Harbor, and as we walked barefoot in the sand on the neighboring beach, we watched the waves lap the
shore. Lake Superior was quiet that morning, but when we went to the beach at nearby Ontonagon Township Park on a windy afternoon, we saw the lake's wild side. Huge waves pounded the shore in a relentless rhythm while the sun sank into the water. Long driftwood logs and trunks of fallen trees lay scattered across the sand. Even after we retreated from the beach, the roar of the crashing waves resounded in our ears. At Syl's Cafe in the tiny village of Ontonagon we picked up some "pasties" to bake in our RV oven at our campsite. A pastie is a small meat pie the Cornish miners of a century ago made famous. Similar to a beef pot pie, these dough-wrapped meat pies were ideal for the miners to take into the mines for a tasty and nourishing midday meal. Many "Yoopers," as the residents of the U.P. call themselves, are descended from settlers who brought the pastie recipes from Britain. Porcupine Wilderness State Park lies 15 miles west of Ontonagon and is home to the famous Lake of the Clouds. A scenic overlook high above the lake at the far western end offers a breathtaking view. We were hoping to catch the lake with mist rising from its depths as we've seen in photos, but even without that otherworldly air the view at the top was well worth the easy hike.
JEWELS ON AN AUTUMN TRIP
COAST TO COAST FALL MAGAZINE 2019
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