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Opposite page: Lady sliders Amy Woodward (in green) and Malie Eversole (in pink) regularly paddle out from the Club to enjoy the surf. Above: Malia Eversole dancing down the line.
so that wave gets the best perfor- mance on it. So it’s a lot of respect for the wave and then respect for each other’s surfing. If someone’s in a better spot, you kind of want them to go. You don’t want to see a perfect wave go by with three peo- ple on it or someone taking off real deep and then having someone else ruin it. It kind of upsets me in that way, whether it’s me or someone else. Why would you do that? That guy was gonna have the wave of his life and you just ruined it.” Old Man’s, or Kapua, is the foil to Rice Bowls’ intensity, a cruisey 9’0” surfboards Makaha log to a 6’0” Mayhem driver. While Rice Bowls will often be flat when other spots are working, Old Man’s usually catches any hint of a south swell. “Softer,” “no stress” and “friend- ly” are what regulars call both the break and its surfers. It’s a break where Malia Eversole remembers “renting boards with all my friends and going out surfing and having so much fun singing and jumping on each other’s boards.” When she was
“Every wave is a one-time deal. It’s created thousands of miles away. You really want the best guy to be in the best position so that wave gets the best performance on it.“ — Bruce Black
Bowls regular who has probably surfed it lon- ger than anyone else out there—about 50 years. “They call me the general because my father was a brigadier general,” Black says. “And be- cause I’ve got it so dialed in from surfing it so long, everyone kind of knows that I’m going to be in the right spot and probably catch the best wave.” Or if the groms don’t know, they will. And then there are the waits. Rice Bowls is not a wave that gives up its treasures easily. Because of all this, Rice Bowls commands rev- erence. “Every wave is a one-time deal,” Black says. “It’s created thousands of miles away. You really want the best guy to be in the best position
MAY / JUNE 2023 | AMA 17
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