For Cheltenham’s Executive Chef TOM PARRY , sustainability is all-important when sourcing ingredients. It’s one of the reasons he collaborates with the Severn &Wye Smokery to bring exclusive, locally produced food to racegoers PHOTOS : GLENN DEARING E very chef worth their salt sets store by one thing above all else: ingredients. Fresh, seasonal, local, sustainable and provenance are, for Cheltenham so clearly has been aware of the importance of sustainability for far longer than most food producers. It is more recently, however, that Richard has been able to revolutionise the Smokery itself. Two years ago, the new shop and restaurant was opened, giving the Smokery a public face, but it was the SMOKIN’ HOT FOOD
Racecourse Executive Chef Tom Parry, the principles that guide his choices, “And flavour. That’s number one, of course!” he says. He’s come to see Richard Cook, founder and owner of the Severn & Wye Smokery, a stone’s throw from Cheltenham. “We’ve bought our smoked salmon from Richard for several years now. It tastes incredible and what I really love is that Richard and I can work together on the method and recipe to produce something that is exclusive to Cheltenham. One of the other things that I think is important is that it is locally produced. And I have little doubt that this is the most sustainably produced planting native trees to replace the oaks he has used for building materials and smoking at a rate of 70 to one should tell you something. But what is unusual is that he’s been doing this for 20 years – smoked salmon in this country.” The fact that Richard has been
behind-the-scenes work that has been so extraordinary. “We don’t use any fossil fuels here – no gas, no oil. There is no waste water, we get our heat and energy from five sources: a windmill, biomass burner, photovoltaic panels, air-source heat and ground-source heat. Nothing is waste, as far as I’m concerned. I don’t use that word anymore. It’s bioproducts.” From the water which is treated and used to irrigate fields to the packaging that is used to fuel the biomass burner, Richard runs through what would normally be chucked in the bin, with everything being used again in some way, shape or form. Tom chips in: “I love that nothing is wasted from the fish. From top to tail, it’s used.” Richard nods. “We send the salmon heads to countries where they are prized – where protein is more expensive. So big shipments go to the
Ukraine and even as far as Vietnam. The belly trim is used in food production and the carcasses can be used in any manner of ways – fish and bone meal is the lowest form of return, but still worth it.” As Richard sees it, it’s not only about not wasting food, it also makes financial sense. “Salmon prices fluctuate wildly – in one year, there was a 152% price rise from the lowest point to the highest. So, it is mad not to make sure we get as much use out of the fish as possible.” And, speaking of fish – what about the star of the show, the salmon itself? Richard explains that the Smokery
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