Adding another layer of in- trigue to gemstones is how they get their color––or lack thereof. Gemstones appear naturally across all colors of the visible light spectrum. A gemstone’s unique color comes from sever- al variables including the trace elements it contains, the way it refracts light, its host rock, and other physical differences it may have. The blue of a sapphire, for instance, comes from trace elements titanium and iron. The more iron it contains, the dark- er the blue. Chromium, on the other hand, can result in the red of a ruby or the pink in a pink sapphire. But make no mistake, though classifications of gem - stones may share a similar make- up, they are like snowflakes––no two are alike. “I have studied gemology for over 30 years,” said Paul Farmer, master goldsmith and jewelry artist. “Some are very unusual like trapiche emeralds, which have a six-sided star pattern caused when carbon is captured in the growth access of the stone. The nicest trapiche emeralds also have the Catseye phenomenon that when light hits the stone it seems to shimmer and move as the stone is moved.” From their enchanting histo- ry to the formation process to their eye-catching appearance, there is much to admire about gems. But it’s perhaps the sheer variety and uniqueness that attracts jewelry artists to them. “There are so many different gem- stones and they all have their different qualities,” said Isabelle Posillico, jew- elry artist. “There’s such an incredible variety of gems and colors. Even in blues––from the light blue of aquama- rine to the dark blues in sapphires and lapis. They’re fascinating.” And with this incredible variety brings rarity. On the hunt for rarity and quality Of the more than 2,000 mineral species identified, fewer than 100 are deemed gemstones. Of these 100, only 16 have achieved particular signifi - cance. These include beryl, chrysober- yl, corundum, diamond, feldspar, gar- net, jade, lazurite, olivine, opal, quartz, spinel, topaz, tourmaline, turquoise, and zircon. Some of these mineral categories encompass more than one
gem. For instance, corundum includes rubies and sapphires while beryl in- cludes emeralds and aquamarines. Gemstones are then further catego- rized into precious and semi-precious. There are only four (sometimes five depending who you ask) precious gemstones: diamonds, sapphires, em- eralds and rubies, and opals. All other stones are referred to as semi-pre- cious, but this does not mean they are any less valuable. In fact, they can often be more rare than gemstones deemed “precious”.
stones rather than lots of small,” she said. Since Isabelle works with many of her clients on repurposing gem- stones they already own, it has afford- ed her the opportunity to work with some one-of-a-kind pieces. “I have been honored to work with some of my client’s gemstones that would have been out of my reach to purchase,” she said. “Alexandrite, for example, is a color-changing stone. It goes from green to purple depending on what light source it gets––daylight
Hidden gems hunting for earth's Mineral Flowers
“These gems have life in them: their colors speak, say what words fail of.” -George Eliot
or incandescent light. It’s very rare. I’ve also gotten to work with black opals, South Sea pearls, tanzanite, and unheated star sapphires.” For Paul, the rarest gemstone he’s ever procured was a three-carat natural untreated Burmese ruby. He explained that rubies are com- monly heat treat- ed at the mine, and have been for hundreds of years,
"Dance Partner" earrings by Isabelle Posillico (Sold)
untreated Burmese ruby of natural color and very high clarity.” When it comes to opals, there are certainly some varieties that have tra- ditionally been more rare than others. But over the course of his nearly five- decade-long career in opals, Luciano Bortone has watched the category as a whole become more scarce. “Opals have become very rare,” he said. “You can’t even buy the raw or rough material anymore because the miners are very scared they’ll lose an opal in the rough. They want to pro- cess it to see what’s available first.” Still, this hasn’t stopped Luciano from seeking out the rarest (con't)
For instance, most diamonds, with a few exceptions, while precious, are not necessarily rare simply because there are a lot of them. And it’s the more rare stones, that are still within finan - cial reach of the average collector, that Isabelle has her sights set on finding. “I used to collect all kinds of gem- stones, but now I’m really focused on getting more rare, unusual larger
to enhance the clarity of the stone, but this is permanent and can change the color––usually improving the look of the average stone. To find an unheat - ed variety is very rare. “Burmese rubies have a bit of pink with the red giving them a differ- ent appearance than a typical ruby making these the most collectible gemstones,” he said. “The rarest is the
T here are few things in this world that are as deeply and collectively cher- ished by humankind as gemstones. Since nearly the beginning of our existence, the love of, and fascination with, gemstones has been shared across every cultural, racial, gender, and generational chasm. Indeed, gems have been revered by humans for thousands of years. And while their significance, symbolism and use have shapeshifted through- out the evolution of civilization, there are throughlines that prevail today. Earlier forms of jewelry donning gemstones were used to protect against bad luck and illness, bring good fortune and ward off evil. There was also significant spiritual meaning placed on jewelry and gemstones, as they were offered up to the gods and used to surround entombed pharaohs with riches so they could bring them into the afterlife. They’ve also been symbols of wealth and prosperity, and of human connection and commit- ment.
To be sure, gemstones have a rich and fascinating history, and that is just part of their allure. The history of the gemstone Most gemstones are mineral crystals formed in and mined from the earth. The exception to this is pearls and am- ber, which are classified as organics. Organic gems are products of living or previously living organisms and bio- logical processes. Amber, for instance, is made from tree resin that fossilized over millions of years. Some findings also suggest there may be some extraterrestrial gem- stones among us. In 2005, peridot was found in comet dust brought back from the Stardust robotic space probe. Despite their brilliant luster, gem- stones typically range from millions to billions of years old. In fact, the oldest known mineral on Earth––coming in at nearly 4.4 billion years old–––is zir- con. It was only discovered a couple of decades ago, however, in the Jack Hills of Western Australia.
"Boulder Opal Bravado" by Shelli Kahl special commission for a client. (photo credit: Peter Italiano)
Rubellite tourmaline 18k gold rings by Paul Farmer
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Issue 1 | Summer 2023
Issue 1 | Summer 2023
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