RITAM SRBIJE / RHYTHM OF SERBIA
Tako je govorio patrijarh Pavle „Nikako to ne sme da bude gozba sa mnogo skupocenih jela i pića. Hri- šćani se moraju toga osloboditi. Novac, umesto na nehrišćanske gozbe, treba upotrebiti u plemenite svrhe. Prema mogućnostima, kako ko mo- že, treba pomoći nekoj siromašnoj porodici, izbeglicama, sirotoj deci ku- piti obuću, odeću ili knjige za školu. Nije li bolje i plemenitije svima da po- stupamo ovako hrišćanski, nego da prestupamo zapovesti svoje Crkve – zapovesti koje su se naši preci sveto držali?“ IN THE WORDS OF PATRIARCH PAVLE “It mustn’t be a feast with many expensive dishes and drinks. Christians must free themselves of that. Instead of being used for non-Christian feasts, money should be used for noble purposes. According to possibili- ties, as much as one’s able, help should be provided to some poor family, refugees, to buy shoes, clothes or school books for poor children. Is it not better and more noble for all of us to act in this Christian way, rather than violating the commandments of our own Church – commandments that were held sacred by our ancestors?”
SUMPTUOUS SPREAD The kitchen has a special place during Slava days. It is there that the lady of the house kneads the Slava cake and decorates it with tiny dough icons. Following the serv- ing of wheat pudding and coffee, dishes are brought to the festive table one by one, so it’s okay to forget about all diets and restraint, given that you’ll be made hungry just by looking at all the delicacies. During this period of late autumn, it’s generally impossible to imagine a feast spread in Serbia without Ajvar chutney, Sarma cabbage rolls and something sweet, such as Vasa’s cake; without the wonderful dishes that have comforted us for decades, bringing us joy and helping to spice up grey, cold days. Serbian caviar Nothing warms the taste buds and bellies on cold days like red bell peppers that have spent the summer soaking up all the sunshine. Once they’d ripened enough for winter preserves, they had to be roasted, ground, and simmered, sometimes with spicy chili peppers and auber- gine. This leads to the emergence of such sumptuous fla- vours, this red ambrosia that’s spread on bread or served as an accompaniment to other dishes. Whether sweet or spicy, this bell pepper chutney represents a true fam- ily value and is often brought out of the pantry or larder like a precious item of jewellery that the family has kept for a long time and brings out to present to the dearest guests. We even hide the treasure that is Ajvar from our- selves, to ensure we can preserve it for as long as possible.
Queen of the feast Cold, sour and rich in vitamin C, cabbage receives a special winter treatment in the Balkans. Salted heads of fresh cabbage are stacked in a barrel and left to stand and release their juices. Once prepared, it serves to cool the feast when served alongside plenty of meat. And af- ter that you’re ready for Sarma, the queen of any Serbian feast at this time of the year. A proper winter fairy tale is told by the pot in which the Sarma slowly cooks and simmers, combining flavours and aromas, led by smoked and dried meat. Here nature and Serbian cuisine have come together, with the weight gained from eating sarma serving as a blanket that warms the bones. When spring arrives, it’s important to put Sarma on a bike and take it to the gym. All joking aside, there is hardly anyone in Serbia who will ever tell you that they don’t like Sarma, because we’re all impatiently awaiting the first Slava cele- bration at which we’ll enjoy this sweet-smelling speciality. Vasa’s cake After devouring all the above, make sure to leave room for Vasa’s cake. According to culinary history, Paraćin na- tive Vasa Čokrljan received his own cake from his moth- er-in-law, as a sign of gratitude for taking his wife to Vi- enna to ensure she gave birth safely. Jelena gave birth to a healthy child, and her mother decided to make her son-in-law a luxurious cake. Given that the recipe for Vasa’s cake dates back to 1908, when fruits from south- ern lands weren’t easily available, the inclusion of an or- ange in the recipe testifies to just how much effort and love was baked into it. A walnut crust with the flavour of orange, a filling made of walnuts, chocolate and or- ange, with a topping of whisked egg whites and choco- late glaze – the spoon glides through it all effortlessly. If you smile as this tasty cake melts in your mouth, that means you’ve become part of the celebrations of all the descendants of Vasa and Jelena; of all the joy conveyed by this delicacy. Sweeten your life!
104 | Srbija » Serbia
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