MODA / FASHION
MIODRAG GUBERINIĆ, DESIGNER & ARTISAN My pieces hold an emotional story
Wings for Victoria’s angels and creations for Katy Perry, Scarlett Johansson and Madonna are just a few of the successes of this Serb who’s managed to conquer fashion’s Mount Olympus in New York
HE CREATED THE DECORA- TIVE ARMOUR FOR THE QUEEN OF POP , Madonna, that was seen on her Rebel Heart Tour. He has partic- ipated in the creation of magnificent costumes for Cirque de Soleil, but al- so for numerous Broadway produc- tions and TV series. His design work has featured in top fashion maga- zines, while he has designed acces- sories for the fashion campaigns of brands like Estee Lauder and Shisei- do, as well as an advertisement for Dom Perignon that presents Lady Ga- ga in a dramatic costume. His design prowess recently dazzled at a fashion show in New York. “Angels” brought the wings he’d created for this Victo- ria’s Secret fashion show – pink wings donned by Gigi Hadid for the open- ing and red ones worn by her sister Bella, ribbon wings, metallic blue os- trich wings... His name is Miodrag Guberin- ić. He grew up in Serbia and gradu- ated in costume design at the Facul- ty of Applied Arts in Belgrade, before earning his master’s degree in cos- tume design at Chicago’s Northwest- ern University. He is today resident in Brooklyn, where he runs his own design company, Mio Design NYC, with a focus on highly innovative de- sign and artisan projects. He utilis- es the latest materials and technolo- gy in his wide range of costume and wearable art projects, and we began this interview by asking him how he combines sculpture, fashion and cos- tume design... “These disciplines each contrib- ute to different aspects of my crea- tive process. Sculpture gives me the freedom to create in the space around the body, while fashion enables me to create functional and wearable pieces and costume design adds a narrative dimension, providing the work with
deeper meaning in performance. I feel at my most creative when I success- fully balance and combine these ele- ments in creating a unique expres- sion that is artistic, functional and adapted to movement.” Do you start with a concept, material, or emotive story? “I often find inspiration in pic- tures of nature – from microcosms to underwater landscapes, birds, animals and natural elements. I at- tempt to imitate those natural forms by experimenting with unusual ma- terials, which helps me find solutions for tasks in my studio. I sometimes start with an emotive story or vision that I want to convey through design. Researching and testing materials is crucial, as the combination of mate- rials often dictates the direction in which the design develops.” Are there any specific tech- niques or production meth- ods that have become your trademark? “I’ve developed techniques throughout the years that combine traditional methods – like sewing, handmaking headdresses and cor- sets, and work with leather – with modern technologies like 3D print- ing, laser cutting and LED or kinetic elements. My work is a space in which different elements are combined, and that’s where I feel most comfortable, because I’m learning and exploring new techniques constantly.” What are you working on now; what can we expect? “One project that I’m particular- ly proud of is the film Wicked, which I worked on together with design- er Paul Tazewel in London. I really pushed the limits of what’s possible in costume making with new tech- nology, and I can hardly wait to see the final result on screen.”
Nadam se da će moj rad biti prepoznat po inovaciji i da će inspirisati ljude da eksperimentišu / I hope for my work to be recognised for its innovations and for it to inspire people to experiment
nom pričom ili vizijom koju želim preneti kroz dizajn. Istraživanje i testiranje materijala su ključni, jer kombinacija materijala često dikti- ra pravac u kojem se dizajn razvija. Postoje li specifične teh- nike ili metode izrade ko- je su postale vaš zaštit- ni znak? – Tokom godina sam razvio tehnike koje kombinuju tradicio- nalne metode poput šivenja, ruč- ne izrade oglavlja i korseta, rad sa kožom, sa savremenim tehnologi- jama poput 3D štampe, laserskog sečenja, i LED ili kinetičkih eleme- nata. Moj rad je prostor u kojem se kombinuju različiti elementi, i tu se osećam najkomfornije jer konstan- tno učim i istražujem nove tehnike. Na čemu sada radite, šta možemo da očekujemo? – Projekat na koji sam posebno ponosan je film „Wicked“, na ko- jem sam radio sa dizajnerom Polom Tazvelom u Londonu. Stvarno sam pomerio granice onoga što je mo- guće u izradi kostima novom teh- nologijom i jedva čekam da vidim finalni rezultat na ekranu.
Tekst / Words: Ivan Radojčić Fotografije / Photography: JOSE ESPAILLAT
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