By Marc Piperno
There are but a few business owners on Long Island, that own three successful restau- rants, each with their own unique charac- teristics and style. In 1996, brothers Joe, Frank and John Mannino began their journey with the opening of their first restaurant on Com- mack Road. Since then, their vision has grown to three locations, that include Smithtown and Oakdale. Five years ago, they took a leap of faith and decided to re- locate the Commack restaurant to a new property, built from the ground up, on Jeri- cho Turnpike. By most standards, it has be- come their flagship restaurant and is clearly distinct from any other establishment for miles around. I’ve known the Mannino’s since their in- ception, and have grown to appreciate what it takes to build a family brand syn- onymous with distinctive quality and ex- ceptional service.
Though I’ve been to their restaurants many times, I asked Joe Mannino if he would show me his culinary chops with a four course tasting menu. Included were a variety of dishes, paired with some amazing wines. Guided by their General Manager and Sommelier, made this 3 hour dining experience, one that I will remember for a long time to come. We began our dinner with three appetizers; Grilled Polpo ; octopus has a tendency of being a little rubbery or tough, but this starter appeared to have been braised, then Charcoal grilled, tossed with endive, roasted pep- pers, lemon and extra virgin olive oil. A colorful medley, that was light and delicious. Old World Meatballs w/ Fresh Ricotta ; a traditional southern Italian clas- sic. Tender, juicy, and flavorful in a simple tomato sauce, paired with creamy fresh ricotta, played well with the acidity of the tomato sauce. Culatello di Zibello ; one of the rarest prosciuttos from Italy, aged 36 months was a real treat. Plated with Mozzarella di Bufala was incred- ible. Its creamy, texture, complimented the savory cured meat very well, making it a winning combination. Our next course; Homemade Wagyu Beef, Porchini Mushroom Ravioli ; 2 ravioli immersed in a light cream sauce with a touch of tomato.Three words; silky, creamy, savory. Perfezione!
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ET MAGAZINE - DECEMBER 2022
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