POLISHING PROCESS
There are two basic methods of preparing firearms for engraving/ finishing. The first method is mechanical. Mechanical polishing requires the use of felt and cotton polishing wheels that are attached to an electric motor. The wheels are charged with polishing grit which ranges from 120 to 1200. Using this method can wash out the lettering and round any straight edges unless great care is taken. Poor polishing
has ruined many fine firearms. The second method is to hand polish the firearm. This is accomplished by using wet or dry sanding paper, special blocks and contoured round rods (all homemade) to sand the metal and maintain all of the edges and contours in perfect condition. How much of the exposed metal do you polish? There are several views on this topic. Some say, “Only polish what
you plan to engrave,” but I believe you need to sand every exposed surface. Doing so gives you a smooth surface that will translate into a finely finished piece. Your engraving is part of a composition. If another person finishes the polishing, they will either spend a lot of time sanding around your work or risk ruining it if they sand into your engraving. By polishing before engraving, you save time and reduce the risk of damage during finishing.
DON’T ROLL THE BLOCK OVER THE EDGE TO THE NEXT SURFACE.
SAND ONE SURFACE AT A TIME.
1 220 OR 240 GRIT (or 120 grit if there are filing marks)
Doing so will round the edge and lose the crisp design that was intended.
Lubricating sandpaper helps it last longer. It also breaks down grit into finer particles and eases the transition when going to the next finer grit in the polishing process.
I generally start the process using 220 or 240 grit paper and one of the sanding blocks. There will be times when you will have to start with 120 if there are any filing marks. Lubricate the sandpaper and begin sanding at a 45-degree angle to the length of the piece being polished.
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@GRSTOOLS
2020 FALL
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