Maryann Lawrence
It’s difficult not to overstate the influence of Queen Victoria when discussing jewelry. As the second longest reigning monarch in England, her influence spanned 64 years – from 1837 until her death in 1901. So long was her reign that historians have divided it into three distinctive periods. Victoria was only 17 when she took the crown. Her youth, her highly public courtship and marriage to Prince Albert in 1840, and their devotion to one another influenced a generation. This is the Romantic Period. For their engagement, Queen Victoria gifted Prince Albert with a ring in the shape of a snake holding its tail in its mouth: a symbol of eternal love. Symbolism was emblematic of the Romantic Period. At this time, gemstones were tied to magical powers or special meaning. Pink coral was said to protect the wearer from evil and disease, ruby to symbolize passion; seed pearls to depict tears. The Romantic Period was a time of fairy tales and magic. The Victorians used gemstones to impart messages. A ring set with ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby and diamond (spelling REGARD) was a common ornament, for example. Memento jewelry was popular, such as lockets that held hair or photographs. High necklines meant that necklaces were out and brooches were in. Long bar pins accented ruffled necks, or shell carved cameos depicting silhouettes, birds or garden scenes. All jewelry was handmade during this time. Repoussé was a common metal working technique of the early Victorian period. It involved hammering malleable metal into intricate designs and pattern. Rolled gold (gold sheets soldered to base metal sheets, or what we now call gold plated) was a popular alternative to what was then very expensive solid gold, although of course the Queen herself could afford such lavish indulgences. When the French colonized Algeria in the 1840s, motifs including the lotus flower, knots, tassels and festoons became en vogue. Natural motifs abounded during this time. Animals such as serpents, birds, and spiders, and bouquets of flowers, branches, leaves, grapes and berries. Gloved or bare hands romantically holding a flower or bouquet were sentimental symbols that remain to this day.
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