In 1861 both the Queen’s mother and Prince Albert died and the loss was deeply felt by the nation. During this time, traditions surrounding mourning were elaborate and quite strict. Full mourning, requiring an entirely black wardrobe and jewelry, was worn for a year. Half mourning, of gray and somber tones in both jewelry and clothing, extended for the next six months. At this time, onyx would have been used as the primary stone in jewelry as well as jet and obsidian.Memorial rings appeared, featuring elaborately woven hair and intricate engraving. Later, gemstones with deeper tones, such as garnets and amethysts would be used. The excavation of pyramids along the Nile created a fascination with Egyptian themes. Jewelry featured scarabs, falcons, ankhs and the images of the Egyptian Gods. In the 1870s, a major opal discovery was made in the British Territory of Australia. Diamonds had been discovered in South Africa in 1867. Expeditions to China created a new interest in jade. The rise of the middle class increased demand for fine costume jewelry and with the travel industry growing, souvenir jewelry became popular and so did classical Roman motifs. Acorns, bees, bells, birds, crescents, crosses, daisies, hearts, monograms, stars, and shield shapes were all popular. The late (or aesthetic) period reflected an entirely new era. With industry, entertainment, and travel on the rise, the world was opening up. Electricity became a feature of newly constructed building and motorcars made their debut. Actors and actresses became fashion trendsetters. A vast majority of jewelry was now machine produced.Etruscan and Egyptian revival themes continued to fascinate jewelry enthusiasts when the Exposition Universelle in 1867 exhibited findings from archeological digs. France’s Empress Eugenie’s passion for emeralds caused a sensation in France making them almost as desirable as diamonds.This was also a time of the suffragette, and fashion followed. Globe-trotting, educated and working women wore upswept hair, cascading curls and open necklines leaving space for necklaces and earrings to show.
Amethyst Ring & Pin
Georgian Era Stanhope
Scottish Agate Locket
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