Viennese cuisine
The cuisine of Vienna reflects the city’s historical multicultural influences, offering a variety of dishes that are deeply embed- ded in the local culture. Wiener Schnitzel, a breaded and fried veal cutlet, is perhaps the most famous dish, while Tafelspitz, boiled beef in broth, showcases the simplicity and richness of Austrian cooking. Desserts li- ke Apfelstrudel and Sachertorte are also ‘musts’ that represent the sweet side of Viennese culi- nary artistry. Wiener schnitzel This speciality is as emblema- tic of the Austrian capital as Baroque palaces and classi- cal composers. Any restaurant worth its breadcrumbs here fe- atures the pan-fried veal cutlet alongside sweet and vinegary Austrian potato salad. But sch- nitzel culture extends beyond the table: local Viennese gro- ups have organised festivals to celebrate schnitzel, arguably Austria's most prominent nati- onal dish. The date of 9 th Sep- tember is designated Natio- nal Wiener Schnitzel Day, and there's even an online Schnit- zel Museum dedicated to pro- moting it. But where did this dish come from? The best-known legend is that a gourmand Austrian ge- neral discovered the Italian dish
cotoletta alla milanese (Milane- se veal cutlet) during a battle in the late 19 th century. Back in Vienna, he ordered his cooks to whip up their own version, and the Wiener schnitzel was born. However, both historians and chefs note that the first known mention of a breaded schnit- zel appears a century earlier, in a cookbook of Austrian specia- lities. ‘Wiener’ was a relatively late addition to the name, first appearing in an 1831 cookbo- ok. The idea of attributing the veal cutlet to Vienna was part of an early 20 th century move- ment to bolster the Viennese kitchen and other local specia- lities that represented the gran- deur of Austria at the time. The term ‘Wiener schnitzel’ to- day enjoys protected legal sta- tus and may only refer to a slice of veal coated in egg, flour and breadcrumbs that’s then fried. Pork, a popular veal substitute, must be labelled as ‘Wiener schnitzel vom Schwein’ (from pork), or just ‘schnitzel’. And while dozens of restaurants ha- ve been serving Vienna’s signa- ture, spill-over-the-plate dish
for decades, Figlmüller claims to be the home of ‘the one true Wiener schnitzel’. For thousands of visitors to Vienna, waiting outside Figlmüller isn’t a hassle if it me- ans getting the real-deal schni- tzel experience: light and fluffy, never greasy and served by a waiter wearing a black tuxedo. While many serve a big schnit- zel, they say that it's the details that separate Figlmüller from the competition. This restau- rant only uses locally sourced Austrian meat and fresh bread- crumbs, but the real magic is in the frying. The schnitzel has been part of the Figlmüller story since the restaurant’s establishment, but it wasn't always the star of the show. In 1905, Johann Figlmüller opened a modest wine bar a few streets back from the city’s central St. Step- hen’s Cathedral. It wasn't un- til the 1980s that the oversized schnitzel started to attract in- ternational attention. So, if you don't mind waiting, head the- re and find out what all the fuss is about.
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