barrier primer after a light wet sand to minimize exposure to biocides. High pressure water wash using scrapers or 80 grit wet sanding on areas that have difficult to remove fouling such as shell growth bases. If high pressure water washing is not possible or available,wet sand the whole area with 80 grit to ensure the surface is thoroughly clean and free from all fouling residues. Rinse surface with fresh water and allow to dry. For a longer life expectancy of the paint scheme you could light wet sand with 120 grit toremove the surface layer of the old antifouling (the leach layer). This will decrease the risk for future detachment problems. Even if the antifouling is compatible, Interlux recommends a light wet sand around the waterline to ensure the optimum adhesion. 3- Applying Antifouling Paint Mask off any areas that are not going to be painted such as topsides on the waterline with suitable masking tape. With single pack antifoulings mix the paint thoroughly with a stirring stick ensuring that any settlement is well mixed in. Stir frequently during application as the heavy compounds may settle during use. If you are using a two-pack antifouling paint, mix the individual components thoroughly (if both are
liquid). For some products the second component can be a powder. Combine the two components and mix the paint thoroughly as indicated on the datasheet or the can. Antifouling paints are formulated to be applied as they are, so there’s no need to add thinners to them. However, there are some occasions where a small amount of solvent can be added to aid application. Diluting the antifouling too much will affect the amount of product that's applied to the surface and in turn its long term performance. Please see tips for more details. Pour the paint into a clean roller tray. Roll or brush the paint onto the surface ensuring that a good even film of paint is applied. Allow the paint to dry as per the
label on the can. Most products will require more than one application or coat as per datasheet or label on the can. If additional coats are required follow the recommended overcoating times as per the datasheet or label on the can. It is good practice to apply an extra coat to leading and trailing edges such as the waterline, trim tabs, outdrives, keels and rudders. These areas experience more water flow and turbulence and hence more wear on the paint sur- face. Be sure to follow immersion times carefully. If you don’t, it could result in the detachment, blistering or cracking of the antifouling. The marine environment is harsh, so the paint must be allowed to dry thoroughly before immersion. Once the paint is dry, remove all masking tape. To clean equipment, use the recommended sol- vent from the datasheet or the label on the can.
Applying paint with a roller is a fast method of covering large areas. For most antifoulings applications a 7-9 mm nap solvent resistant mohair roller is suit- able. For thinner antifoulings, a 5-6 mm nap solvent resistant mohair roller, or a high density closed cell foam roller should be used. If rolling with felt or mohair rollers,wrap masking tape around a new roller and then pull off to remove any loose fibers. Some rollers may be affected by solvents in the prod- uct and can swell duringuse. When they become too soft to use, or look like they are breaking up, replace them with a new one. When using a roller and tray it is a good idea to keep the tray
covered loosely to avoid the wind, sun or air creating a skin over the paint during use. Brushes are best used for small areas. As the finish achieved is unlikely to beas good as a topside finish, the type of brush you use isn’t so critical. Wash your brushes with the thinner and dry them thoroughly before next use to avoid contamination. Be sure to wear the proper safety gear and good luck!
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