HERB CORNER
Zero Proof Herbalism: Botanicals in Bar Craft
BY BETTINA PERRY An herbal apothecary is a great resource for anyone looking to ex- plore craft cocktails and non-alcoholic, or zero proof, drink prepara - tions. Herbalists have long been the keepers of much wisdom when it comes to creating potions and preparations that make interesting and wonderful mocktails and cocktails. Oxymels, shrubs, hydrosols, bitters, glycerite extractions, tinctures and syrups… these are all herbal preparations that herbalists use to create herbal medicine and share the power of plants with you. These are also some of the foundational ways herbs are being used in zero proof mocktails and by mindful drinking communities. But before we talk about “zero proof herbalism” as I like to call it, let’s take a moment to recognize the long history of botanicals being used in bar crafts and spirit making. Bitters Backstory The herbalism-medicine-bar craft connection we know today is rooted in history. Here, Angostura bitters is a great example. Angos- tura bitters were created in 1824 by Dr. Johann Siegert, a German physician who served as a surgeon in Simon Bolivar’s army in Venezu - ela. He initially formulated the bitters as a remedy for digestive issues and malaria support for the troops stationed in the town of Angostura (now Ciudad Bolívar). Dr. Siegert’s blend of botanicals was used to aid digestion, soothe stomach ailments, and support the symptoms peo- ple experienced with malaria. The bitters quickly gained popularity beyond medicinal use, especially as European settlers and travelers brought the bitters back home and incorporated them into their cock- tails due to the exotic, bitter flavor. The exact recipe for Angostura bitters is a well-guarded secret, known by only a few individuals. Originally, the recipe likely included Angostura bark, a native plant no longer used in the formula today. The recipe likely also includes a range of additional herbs, spices, and barks; and although the specifics remain confidential, these are some of the key ingredients believed to be among them: ● Gentian Root - Provides a deeply bitter base and is common in many bitters recipes. ● Cinchona Bark - Known for its quinine content, and an in- digenous remedy for fever; has an exotic, spicy bitter quality. ● Cardamom - adds a warm, aromatic flavor. ● Cloves and Cinnamon - Provide spice and warmth, diges- tive and anti-viral properties to the mix. Regardless of the recipe’s exact ingredients, bitters has become a staple in bar craft worldwide, in part popularized by the American cocktail known as a Manhattan, but all because Dr. Siegert used his herbal and medical knowledge at the time when a health solution was much-needed. There are many other common spirits found at the bar that use herbs as their base or even main flavor component. One of the most recognizable examples is Gin. Gin is of course primarily made from juniper berries. Juniper berries are used in herbalism for diuretic kid- ney support among other conditions. Gin often includes additional botanicals like coriander, angelica root, and citrus peel; these herbs all offer digestive support from an herbalist perspective. A less common example is St. Germain liqueur. To us herbalists, that’s an elderflower liqueur — or an herbal extraction/tincture and/or elixir, depending on how you look at it. Elderflowers are valued in herbalism for their gen - tle, immunity-supporting qualities. Other spirits created with herbs
include Absinthe, Chartreuse, Benedictine, Amaro, Campari, Ver- mouth, and Aquavit, just to name a few. As you can see, the modern bar cabinet and the herbalist apothecary have deep connections. The Rise of Botanical Bar Craft As I personally observed, the rise in the craft cocktail culture and the zero-proof movement of today began in the mid 2000’s in response to the mass-marketed, sugary, and often low-quality cocktails that were commonly served in bars during the 1980s and 1990s. I worked for many years as a pastry chef before I went into herbalism full time. Around 2008-2009, I started noticing the bartenders were hanging out in the kitchen a little longer than usual. They were doing more than just cutting limes in the kitchen before a shift. I noticed they were infusing fresh fruits into vodkas and making simple syrups from scratch. By the time I left the kitchen in 2014, the bartenders were doing whole preps in the back with the cooks, making syrups and even house-made bitters to prepare for a shift. It was also around this time I noticed an uptick in both craft cock- tails being served in restaurants and in the general public’s growing interest for them. Bartenders and consumers alike started to seek out higher quality, thoughtfully made drinks using fresh ingredients, ar- tisanal spirits, and classic techniques. The craft cocktail movement was in full swing! There is a wonderful book published in 2016 called DIY Bitters: Reviving the Forgotten Flavor - A Guide to Making Your Own Bitters for Bartenders, Cocktail Enthusiasts, Herbalists, and More by Jovial King and Guido Masé, the founders of Urban Moon - shine, a craft bitters company. If you are curious about the intersec- tion of herbalism and bitters in craft creations, it’s a great resource, even today; to me, it encapsulates the tone of the time perfectly. The craft cocktail movement also coincides with the rise in herbal- ism over the last 40 years here in the US, particularly intersecting with the rise in social media, and specifically that of foodie and herbalism social media. Today, and because of some of those factors, the result is that words once more likely to be used by herbalists alone — like shrubs, oxymels, hydrosols, bitters and more — are now more com- monly known to the general public. As people are increasingly making continued on page 54
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