Tucson Delights Affectionately known as “The Old Pueblo” Story by Emily Fagan Photos by Emily & Mark Fagan The American Southwest is filled with vast cactus-studded deserts, high elevation ponderosa pine forests, and beautiful yet unexpected rivers and lakes that wind through the arid land. However, it is the many kinds of human history embedded into this natural history that flushes out its unique character. In southern Arizona, the city of Tucson offers visitors not only spectacular and unusual scenery but a millennium of human history with buildings and artwork dating back to the earliest indigenous inhabitants, to the Spanish missionary period, and to American settlement of the region. Affectionately known as “The Old Pueblo,” this city is not to be missed. Mission San Xavier del Bac One of our favorites places in the Tucson area is the historic Mission San Xavier del Bac located a few miles south of Tucson. Founded in 1692 by Jesuit Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, the original church was destroyed in an attack by the Apaches. The current church was erected by Franciscan fathers between 1783 and 1797 and its two stately steeples rise up from the desert floor in pure elegance, bright white against a vivid blue sky. Built in the classic Spanish Missionary style from clay brick, stone, and lime mortar, it is adorned with beautiful arches and balconies. One of the towers is fully intact with a dome top supporting an arched peak that houses a lantern inside, while the other tower lost its dome to a lightning strike in 1939. That wasn’t the only natural disaster to wound this lovely church; an earthquake damaged the structure in 1887 as well. Despite these natural disasters, this National Historic Landmark has been preserved and beloved through the ages by the local Papago people who now call themselves the Tohono O’Odham, meaning “Desert People.” A group of community leaders has overseen renovation and reconstruction work since 1999, employing
The beautiful San Xavier del Bac Mission
A lion perches outside San Xavier del Bac Mission
world-renowned experts to refresh the stunning frescoes inside. Church services are still held and the church community is very active. As simple yet grand as the exterior appears, we were blown away by the detail, color, and intricacy of the painted and sculpted decorations on the inside. As the layers of history and artwork have been peeled back during the renovations, it was discovered that the walls were once covered with small blue dots. It is theorized that these dots were actually the “fingerpainted” thumb prints of the people who originally erected the church, and they have been preserved where possible. Seeing hundreds of thumbprints brought the history of the church alive as we pondered who those people were and what their lives in this desert land were like. San Xavier del Bac is considered the oldest and most well-preserved of Arizona’s historic buildings, and we felt like we’d been transported to another time as we wandered about the church, the outer courtyard, and up on the hill where two sculpted lions stand watch.
TUCSON DELIGHTS
COAST TO COAST MAGAZINE FALL 2022 | 12
Made with FlippingBook - Online catalogs