Expect one kaleidoscopic vista after another in the San Juan Mountains, from colorful Dallas Creek Road to the pretty town of Telluride.
Our first trip into this wonderland of color was out to Owl Creek Pass. Driving between the shimmering aspen, the views changed with every switchback, growing ever more dramatic as we climbed higher. Near the top we came to a clearing with a million dollar view that would make the most ideal camping spot for a tent or truck camper (nothing larger could make it on this road!). A fellow leaf-peeper told us that this clearing was the scene of the big shootout in John Wayne’s movie True Grit . A lively conversation between us all ensued. A little further up the road, we stopped again in a spot where our newfound friend began posing for his wife as if taking a swig from a bottle while leaning against a rock. He quickly explained that John Wayne’s character in True Grit had gotten drunk right here while resting on this rock. We got in the spirit too, and I took a shot of Mark pretending to be John Wayne as well. A few days later we found a DVD of the movie. What fun it was to see all the places we’d just visited on Owl Creek Pass, including the whisky scene and the shootout. Another day we drove out on both Dallas Creek Road and West Dallas Creek Road where the sunny yellow aspen interspersed with vivid red trees. It was a true photographer’s paradise being immersed in these glorious views. For every mile we drove, we stopped at least three times to pile out of the truck and get some more pictures. At one point we turned into a clearing to find a group of RVers and tent campers. They were there for hunting season and had some rousing stories to tell of the elk herd. More fasci- nating to us, though, was the tale one hunter told of the wed- ding between Jeb Bush’s son and Ralph Lauren’s daughter that had taken place on Lauren’s estate the previous year. Lauren’s Double RL Ranch sprawls across most of the open land in this region, and the Secret Service and National Forest Service had been kept busy closing all the roads to protect the two former presidents and countless other celebrities invited to the event. Our final drive in the area took us along Last Dollar Road to a beautiful canopy of aspen that hung over the route in a lofty arch. The road was lit up in yellow under one of the densest stands of aspens we’ve ever seen. These soaring trees had an almost noble air, swaying ever so slightly in the breeze while their leaves quivered in the late afternoon light. As we con-
tinued along this road, we crested a mountain peak and then descended into Telluride, surrounded by breathtaking views at every turn. By the time we arrived in the delightful town, our mouths seemed permanently formed in the word “Wow!” Telluride, Ridgway and Ouray are unique little mountain towns that mix a slightly quirky cowboy air with the elite ambience of the cosmopolitan ultra-rich. With mining in its history, Telluride now offers boutique shopping, upscale din- ing and elegant lodging. We enjoyed an afternoon stroll along the main street where the low buildings are tucked up against a towering mountain. Our time in town didn’t allow for a ride up the ski lift to the mountaintop, but memories of that exhilarating ride from another summer a few years back were fresh in our minds as we watched the gondola carousel turn- ing at the mountain’s base. The weather at this time of year can turn quickly, and in just one day the blue skies and warm air gave way to storm clouds and brisk winds. The wind rattled our trailer all night and whipped the leaves from the trees in a relentless blow. However, an overnight shower sprinkled the mountainsides with a dusting of snow. As we left Telluride in our rearview mirror, we passed through a stunning panorama of misty mountain peaks towering over colorful valleys, showing off the last of autumn’s splendor. Although we have lived in and loved the West for a long time, we hadn’t taken our big fifth wheel to Colorado in our five years of full-time RVing because we were nervous about driving it on the narrow mountain roads. What a fantastic surprise it was to find that the driving was not difficult. The landscapes were so stunning that we will happily return without hesitation. For More Information Colorado National Monument, nps.gov/colm Colorado Department of Transportation, coloradodot.info The Colorado DOT is a great resource for finding out if roads on your itinerary are suitable for RV driving. We recommend against driving larger RVs on the portion of Route 550 between Ouray and Silverton.
Colorado has one Coast Premier Resort, one Coast Deluxe Resort, two Good Neighbor Parks and 49 Good Sam Parks.
fall 2013 COAST TO COAST 11
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