WHEN THE TIME CAME TO ADD HIS SIGNA- TURE to a line of fine jewellery made from precious materials, Anthony Vaccarello, current creative direc- tor of Yves Saint Laurent, decided to do so according to his own rules. This designer, who found himself in the demanding position of being the successor to Yves Saint Laurent when he took on the role of cre- ative leader of this famous brand back in 2016, built his reputation on designing sensual, cinematic out- fits and staging shows that resemble something from another planet – and he’s now shown how ready he is for the next level of luxury. And thus, Saint Laurent Haute Joaillerie was born – representing this brand’s first ever range of sophisti- cated, jewelled accessories. Although YSL has always of- fered fashion accessories, this is the first collection that brings together the jeweller’s tradition and world-re- nowned Parisian chic. The result of his research into the brand’s rich archive and his fascination with forms found in nature, as well as his familiarity with and ap- plication of the latest sustainable solutions in the form of recycled gold, has delighted trendsetters. Extravagance and minimalism coexist in this col- lection, which comprises bracelets, necklaces, pendants and brooches, and is characterised by recognisable ele- ments of the brand remixed with eco-friendly prestige. Vaccarello describes these fashion details as “function- al, collectible pieces”, with top craftsmanship that pro- vides them with timeless value – rings, earrings, pen- dants and necklaces made from recycled yellow and white gold (because sustainability in jewellery is vital) and diamonds, while interwoven into the design itself are key elements of Saint Laurent – including the fa- mous YSL logo and Maillon large chain links. Particularly enticing are the collection’s bracelets with prominent sculptural loops of gold, brooches with star motifs, oversize earrings with geometric forms, but also thin necklaces that radiate the notion of fluidity. While some of the pieces are thinly proportioned and branded in a similar way to the famous YSL ‘it’ bags, the vast majority of the pieces look desirably anonymous to the untrained eye – as they’ve been designed to re- main relevant for decades and to outlive passing trends.
finjenih đinđuva, premijerna takvog profila za ovu marku. Iako „Saint Laurent“ odvajkada nudi modne dodatke, ovo je prva kolekcija gde juvelirska tradici- ja sreće nadaleko čuven pariski šik. Rezultat njego- vog istraživanja bogate arhive brenda i opčinjenost formama iz prirode, te poznavanje i primena najno- vijih održivih rešenja u vidu recikliranog zlata – odu- ševili su trendseterke. Ekstavagancija i svedenost koegzistiraju u ko- lekciji koju čine narukvice, ogrlice, privesci i broše- vi, a odlikuje se prepoznatljivim elementima bren- da u remiksu „eco-friendly“ prestiža. Vakarelo ove modne detalje opisuje kao „funkcionalne, kolekci- onarske komade“, izrade koja im daje bezvremen- sku vrednost – prstenje, minđuše, priveske i ogrlice izrađene od žutog i belog recikliranog zlata (jer odr- živost u nakitu je i više nego važna) i dijamanata, a sam dizajn je protkan ključnim elementima „Saint Laurenta“ – poznatim YSL logom i „Maillon“ velikim karikama lanaca. Posebno privlače narukvice istaknutih skulptu- ralnih petlji od zlata, broševi s motivom zvezda, over- sajz minđuše geometrijskih oblika, ali i tanke ogrlice koje odišu idejom fluidnosti. Dok su neki od komada tananih proporcija i brendirani na sličan način kao famozne „it“ tašne ove kuće, velika većina komada će izgledati poželjno anonimno oku neutreniranom za modu – zato što su dizajnirani tako da decenija- ma budu aktuelni i nadžive trendove kratkog daha.
Jewellery » Nakit | 83
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