ukusi srbije / Tastes of Serbia
Pravi raj za sve gurmane sveta / A true paradise for all the world’s gourmets Hrana Food
Za Vojvodinu može da se kaže mno- go toga, ali jedno je sigurno – ova re- gija Srbije je uvek velikodušna, nikad škrta. Pored obilja kojim se vojvođan- ska kuhinja može pohvaliti, nikako se ne sme prevideti aspekt kulturne ra- zličitosti, neverovatno bogatstvo uti- caja naroda koji su ovde nekada ži- veli, ali koji i danas žive harmonično isprepletani svojim divnim nasleđem. Plodna, smirena prostranstva Bač- ke, prošarana Dunavom i Tisom, ima- la su jak uticaj na navike u ishrani sta- novnika pružajući im obilje namirnica i kvalitet hrane. Sremom se ni danas ne može proći a da se ne osete du- boko zapisani rimski tragovi. Sirmium je u rimsko doba bio centar kulturnih i gastronomskih dešavanja, koja su možda najdublji trag ostavila u i da- nas prisutnom odnosu prema vinovoj lozi, spravljanju vina, obradi i suše- nju mesa. U šarolikom Banatu nećete moći da nabrojite šta se sve od hra- ne stavlja pred vas kada vas domaći- ni obaspu pažnjom i započne gastro- nomski ugođaj. Vojvođanska trpeza obiluje tradici- onalnim đakonijama, obilnim i ka- loričnim, sprema se s namerom da dâ snagu, ali i da bude uživanje za sva čula. Autentična narodna jela, kao što je hleb namazan mašću i po- sut mlevenom paprikom i solju, pra- te jednostavni, ali preukusni suho- mesnati proizvodi, kojima stanovnici Vojvodine, ali i turisti, teško mogu da odole. Na ova specifična predje- la nadovezuju se supe od živinskog i junećeg mesa i čorbe od povrća. Od mesa se najviše spremaju svinjsko, živinsko i goveđe, ali neretko i riblji i specijaliteti od divljači. Testo je nezaobilazni deo svake trpe- ze, budući da je uticaj nemačke kuhi- nje na ovoj teritoriji izuzetno jak. Voj- vođanske gibanice, štrudle, kiflice, rezanci, pogačice, razno slano i slat- ko testo su veliki izvor uživanja za sve sladokusce. Kompoti, slatko, pekme- zi (među kojima je čuveni pekmez od dunja), raznovrsni kolači i torte kom- pletiraju savršen vojvođanski ručak. Najstariji vojvođanski slatkiš je baš od dunja. Danas se ređe sprema, a zo- ve se kitnikez. Neki od omiljenih vojvođanskih spe- cijaliteta korene vuku iz 19. veka, ka-
Many things can be said about the province of Vojvodina, which is com- posed of the districts of Bačka, Srem and Banat, but one thing is certain: this region of Serbia is never miserly and is always generous. Alongside the sheer abundance that Vojvodina cuisine can boast of providing, we simply mustn’t disregard the aspect of cultural diver- sity, the incredible richness of the influ- ences of peoples who once lived there, and who still live there today, harmoni- ously intertwined through their wonder- ful heritage. The fertile and serene expanses of Bač- ka, decorated by the rivers Danube and Tisza, had a strong influence on the eating habits of residents, provid- ing them with abundant ingredients and high-quality food. To this very day, you can’t pass through Srem without feel- ing the traces of Rome that have been deeply etched across it. During Ro- man times, Sirmium was a hub of cul- tural and gastronomic events, which perhaps left its most indelible mark on the attitude of locals towards grape vines and winemaking, but also the pro- cessing and drying of meat, that re- mains present to this day. In the colour- ful and diverse Banat, you won’t be able to list all the dishes placed in front of you when your local hosts dote on you and the gastronomic pleasure begins. The Vojvodina spread is rich in tradition- al delicacies, plentiful and calorific, pre- pared with the intention of providing strength, but also delighting all the sens- es. Authentic folk dishes, such as bread and dripping sprinkled with paprika spice and salt, are accompanied by simple yet delicious cured meat products, which are barely irresistible to both locals and tourists alike. Following these distinctive appetisers are chicken and beef broth and thick vegetable soups. The most commonly prepared meat dishes in- clude pork, poultry and beef, but often al- so fish dishes and game specialities. Pastries are an indispensable part of every spread, given the extreme- ly strong influence of German cuisine across this territory. Vojvodina-style gib- anica pie, strudels, bread rolls, noodles, hearth-bread pogačica scones, vari- ous savoury and sweet pastries are a great source of enjoyment for all food- ies. Compotes, fruit preserves, jams (in-
cluding the famous quince jam), as well as various buns and cakes, complete the perfect Vojvodina lunch. The old- est dessert from Vojvodina is made us- ing quince. Rarely prepared today, it is called kitnikez. The roots of some of the most belov- ed Vojvodina specialities can be traced back to the 19 th century, when Ger- manic specialities like rindfleisch, stru- del and breaded schnitzel began be- ing prepared here... Rinflajš [as the word is spelled in Serbian] is the first asso- ciation with this region for many peo- ple, and this dish is prepared in a special way. Translated literally from German, it simply means beef. The meat is boiled in broth, then extracted and left to cool before usually being served with a thick sauce, horseradish or mustard. In Vo- jvodina, the dish of rinflajš is considered as boiled beef (or generally any meat boiled in broth), accompanied by boiled potatoes and a thick sauce that’s usual- ly made from tomatoes, but can also be made from dill or horseradish. Interestingly, sauces in Vojvodina were preceded by traditional cicvara por- ridge, made from wheat flour fried in lard and with added salt and water, on- ly for sauces to be later brought to Vo- jvodina from Austrian cuisine, which had previously adopted them from French cuisine. Mostly made from flour fried in lard, with the addition of dill, boiled or pureed tomatoes, cherries, horseradish, garlic, gherkins or bell peppers... Follow- ing the rinflajš course, it is most com- mon to serve breaded, roast or braised meat with boiled or roast potatoes, a mixed vegetable stew called čušpajz, seasonal salads and bread. But we simply mustn’t forget the queen of Vojvodina – ham! It used to be said here in jest “a woman should be taken care of, but a ham should be loved”. That skilfully devised quip was justified for cen- turies, because ham was, and remains, this region’s greatest gastronomic gem. And to conclude – the sweetest. When it comes to desserts, in Vojvodina they still make various strudels, doughnuts, noodles with poppy seeds, jam tarts, Gugelhupf cakes, milk bread, semolina sponge cake... But there’s also the fa- mous plum dumplings, which are a nos- talgic childhood memory for many Ser- bian people beyond Vojvodina.
da su ovde počeli da se priprema- ju rinflajš, štrudle, pohovane šnicle... Rinflajš je za mnoge prva asocijaci- ja na ovaj kraj, a reč je o jelu koje se priprema na poseban način. U buk- valnom prevodu sa nemačkog (rin- dfleisch) znači goveđe meso. To je meso koje se kuva u supi, pa se onda izvadi, ohladi malo ili više i može da se jede sa sosom, renom ili senfom. U Vojvodini se pod rinflajšom sma- tra kuvano goveđe meso (ali i uopšte meso iz supe), kuvani krompir i sos – najčešće od paradajza, ali može da bude od mirođije ili ljutog rena. Inače, sosovima je u Vojvodini pret- hodila cicvara napravljena od pše- ničnog brašna uprženog na masti sa dodatkom soli i vode, a zatim su u vojvođansku kuhinju sosevi done- ti iz austrijske kuhinje, koja ih je preu- zela od Francuza. Uglavnom se prave od proprženog brašna na masno- ći, sa dodatkom mirođije, kuvanog ili propasiranog paradajza, višanja, re- na, belog luka, kiselih krastavaca ili paprike... Posle rinflajša najčešće se služi pohovano, pečeno ili dinsta- no meso uz kuvani ili pečeni krompir, ćušpajz, sezonsku salatu i hleb. Ali nikako ne treba zaboraviti kraljicu Vojvodine – šunku! Nekada se ovde u šali govorilo: „Žena se pazi, a šunka se voli“. Ta vešto osmišljena doset- ka vekovima je imala opravdanje, jer je šunka bila i ostala najveći gastro- nomski dragulj na ovim prostorima. Na kraju – najslađe. Kada je reč o po- slasticama, u Vojvodini se još prave razne štrudle, krofne, rezanci s ma- kom, tašci s pekmezom, kuglofi, mi- lhbrot, kohovi i druge đakonije. Ali i čuvene gomboce ili knedle sa šljiva- ma, koje i van Vojvodine za mnoge u Srbiji predstavljaju nostalgično seća- nje na detinjstvo.
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