permodel and why it took just a few years – from the peak in the ‘80s to around 1993 – for high fashion to become a pillar of mainstream en- tertainment, on a par with film, tel- evision and music, thanks to these superstars. However, the correct answer to the question of why the original su- permodels elicit such delight whenev- er they get together in one place was provided by the spectacular parade at the Vogue World event – represent- ing a kind of fashion performance that was this year held in London and saw these authentic fashion her- oines emerge in breathtaking couture evening dresses as Annie Lennox, ac- companied by a choir, performed her timeless hit There Must Be an Angel. It was a scene that circled the world. The return of this fashion team corresponded with the central theme of this autumn’s fashion: measured, everyday clothing executed in the highest quality fabrics. The collec- tions of Bottega Veneta, Miu Miu and Loewe stuck to this theme until the season’s final fashion show – with a preference for clothing that can, without too much effort and fore- thought, be worn “until tomorrow morning”. However, distinguishing this “new simplicity” from masses of similar other basic pieces are unex- pected details that are worthy of fash- ion editorials in the most prestigious magazines, like socks made from the softest leather (Bottega Veneta) or a small chain that alters the silhouette of an oversized white Loewe shirt. If you thought the Covid crisis would give way to the emergence of an era like that of the Roaring ‘20s – with champagne for breakfast and sequins “for going to the shops” – this serene fashion climate will finally convince you otherwise. Strictly tai- lored black trench coats dominated the catwalks ahead of the upcoming autumn/winter, together with unpar- alleled classic white shirts, styled in countless ingenious ways (which is great news if you already have one in your wardrobe). The same also applies to numerous corporate chic pieces, such as pinstripe suits and Prince of Wales check blazers, which have un-
expectedly received their own fem- inine plot twist in the new fashion story. Still, not everything was quite so stern and serious at the fashion shows. Some moments were truly brilliant, in every sense, because the brilliance of the metallic texture is highly rated (with the odd sequin offsetting the draped lamé). We al- so mustn’t fail to mention the defi- ant punk energy that intentionally, or subconsciously, pays homage to one of the greatest dames of eccentricity: Vivienne Westwood, who departed this world last December. Floral pat- terns have received a gothic makeo- ver for the colder days ahead – freely think Wednesday Addams, because it’s undeniable that the hit Netflix se- ries left an impression on (and in- fluenced) numerous famous fashion designers. Camellia flowers, which bloom beautifully in autumn, win- ter and early spring, marked – both literally and figuratively – the start- ing point of the signature Autumn/ Winter collection of Chanel’s cur- rent creative director, Virginie Viard. The watchword “timeless” rep- resented a real fashion crutch over previous seasons – ever since we first realised that our closets were jampacked and that we were sick of blindly following fleeting trends – but the fact is that there’s never been a better time for the right “wardrobe investments” in pieces that you will buy now and wear and love forever. Let the details speak the language of style: this season, once again, that means a voluminous, dramatic scarf. The ones featured in the YSL show were reminiscent of plaid blankets, while the Louis Vuitton versions were adorned with vintage brooches. Tie it with great pomp and you might not need to buy anything new, be- cause such a wisely selected detail will make all the difference you want to see this autumn. Apart from this, compile an in- ventory of your fashion collection and you’ll likely realise that you already have something similar to everything described in these lines hidden some- where. As Westwood famously said: “Buy less, choose well, make it last”.
68 | Moda » Fashion
Made with FlippingBook interactive PDF creator