je bio učitelj slikanja, umetnik i sâm, čovek koji je malom Pablu otvorio vrata sveta u kojem će ga sin neza- mislivo nadrasti. Ali koji će ostavi- ti neizbrisiv uticaj, baš kao i sama Malaga i cela njegova Andaluzija. U blizini je katedrala u kojoj su mu se roditelji venčali, a u ko- joj je kršten, pa se u Muzeju može videti i haljinica sa krštenja, kao i replika čuvenog crnog ogrtača u kojem je sahranjen. Uticaj majke koja ga je veoma razmazila, Me- diterana, sunca i mora, bikova či- je je borbe gledao sa svojim prilič- no strogim ocem... Ovde se nalazi i kolaž slika kojim Pikaso prikazu- je put koji slikar prelazi od klasike do apstrakcije. Pomoću kojeg Pika- so govori – pogledajte, umem sa- vršeno da naslikam bika, ali onda gledajte kako skidam detalj za de- taljem, dok ne ostanu konture ap- straktne slike i ne dođemo do sa- me njene suštine. Ako smo u „Kasi natal“ svedo- čili o fascinantnim počecima jed- nog genija, onda smo samo neko- liko ulica dalje, u Muzeju Pikaso, gledali 70 godina neverovatno plod- nog stvaralaštva. Red ispred Muze- ja svedoči da je Pikaso bio u pravu želeći da u svom rodnom gradu ima muzej. Želju mu je ostvario unuk Bernard, Paolov sin, koji kaže ka- ko su njegovi otac i majka pokuša- li da ostvare Pikasu želju još pede- setih godina prošlog veka, ali je na kraju trebalo još 50 godina da san postane stvarnost. Pikasova sna- ja donirala je deo svoje kolekcije za osnivanje novog muzeja u gra- du, a njen sin Bernard je značajno pomogao sopstvenom donacijom. „Museo Picasso Málaga“ otvoren je 2003. i pomogao je da se grad pre- tvori u vrhunsku kulturnu destina- ciju, ne samo u Španiji. Zgrada u kojoj se nalazi Mu- zej bila je nekad plemićka palata iz 16. veka, koju je vešto proširio nju- jorški arhitekta Ričard Glukman da bi se neprimetno stopila sa belim okruženjem grada. Sa dva sprata, galerija smeštena oko lepog mer- mernog dvorišta priča o Pikasovoj karijeri, povremeno osvežavajuci, a time i revidirajuci svoju stalnu ko-
„Nikada nisam radio dečje crteže. Nikada. Čak i kada sam bio veoma mali“ – Pikaso “I never did children’s drawings. Never. Even when I was very small” ~ Picasso
1881 at number 15 Plaza de la Merced. As we enter his “Casa Na- tal” (Birth House), we are watched by words pasted on the walls: “When you encounter Picasso for the first time, you climb the stairs with the idea that you will meet a theorist and an intellectual, very intelligent and important. But once your heart skips a beat and a lump starts to rise in your throat, you will be left sur- prised by the naturalness and sim- plicity with which Picasso enters into a relationship with the newcomer...” The artist is truly present here, as Marina Abramović would say, in all his magnificence, but also in his utter simplicity. Here in the house of his birth, you can really feel the influence of his father, who was him- self an artist and an art teacher; the man who opened the door to the world to the little Pablo, a world in which his son would inconceivably outgrow him. Though he would still
leave an indelible impact on Pablo, as did Málaga itself, and his Anda- lusia as a whole. In the vicinity is the cathedral where his parents were married and he was christened, and you can check out his christening robes at the mu- seum, as well as a replica of the fa- mous black cloak in which he was buried. The influence of his doting mother who spoiled him rotten, the Mediterranean, the sun and the sea, the bulls whose fights he watched with his rather strict father... Also on display here is a collage of paint- ings with which Picasso shows the path taken by a painter from classi- cism to abstraction. With this Picas- so says: ‘look, I’m capable of painting a bull perfectly, but then see how I remove detail after detail, until all that remains are the contours of an abstract image and we don’t reach its very essence’. If we bore witness to the fasci-
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