VINIKUNCA 13°52’12.8”S 71°18’10.6”W
SARAH TENG
we had just reached the peak of Rainbow Mountain—but we weren’t alone. Although we woke up at 3:30 a.m. to be one of the first groups to begin our upward trek, some had been at the top for quite some time when we made it. I took a 360-degree scan of my surroundings once I caught my breath at the top, and that’s when I saw them: two perfectly positioned llamas, comfortably dressed in sunglasses and rainbow Peruvian pom-poms. They were perched in the perfect spot with Rainbow Mountain directly behind them, so I took out my camera and snapped a photo— THE photo. It was this exact moment on Rainbow Mountain that went on to epitomize the numerous unexpected joys of my journey through Peru. What first began as a high-altitude challenge turned into an adventure filled with vibrant landscapes, cultural connections, and moments of self- discovery that I’ll carry with me forever. A Colorful Opening Rainbow Mountain—or Vinikunka—is famous for its characteristic rainbow stripes, a result of prehistoric mineral deposits from a time when Vinikunka was underwater. The 14-color mineral mountain was only discovered about 11 years ago when the snow covering it melted. When my friend Natalie and I set out to hike it, we had just landed in Cusco less than 24 hours earlier, skipping the usual two-to-three-day acclimatization that every guidebook and website recommends. For lack of vacation days (thanks, capitalism!), we arrived the afternoon before and immediately began chugging coca tea because we heard it would help with altitude sickness (which we were beginning to feel not long after we landed). It was only a few hours later when we found out that coca tea is, in fact, caffeinated and we were meant to go to bed early to wake up at 3:30 the next morning. All to say, sleep was nil, but vibes were so high (figuratively and literally) that it didn’t matter. The hike was steep and short, but at 17,060 feet / 5,200 meters above sea level, every step felt way harder than it should’ve. We chatted the whole way in between catching our breath, and I’ll admit I took more “photo breaks” than usual to recover. The intermittent cold and thin air were constant companions, but reaching the summit made it all worthwhile, especially once I saw those llamas at the top. For a moment, I forgot about the altitude headache and simply enjoyed the playful and colorful connection between these animals and their Quechua handlers. It was a glimpse of the cultural richness that would define the rest of my trip. Into the Inca Trail: Four Days of Discovery If Rainbow Mountain was just a small taste of Peru’s beauty, the Inca Trail was a full immersion. Across four days and more than 26 miles, it’s a journey through history, nature, and endurance. Even with a full group of strangers, I quickly found myself settling into the rhythm of the trail—a simpler life waking up with the sun, trekking through stunning landscapes, and sharing stories over meals cooked by our incredible chef, Armando. Without any phone service through the entire hike, I felt the weight of my life at home lifted off my shoulders, and like I could finally enjoy each moment as it came.
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MOTHER VOLUME FOUR
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