SWEDISH LAPLAND 67°28’36.1”N 18°21’10.9”E
HANNEKE VAN CAMP it ’ s a crisp november morning . We’ve snowshoed our way up a hill to overlook the world below us. Mist rises from the frozen lakes, cladding the surrounding trees in a layer of ice. As the sun breaks through the clouds, it makes every crystal sparkle, and all the frost lights up gold. Having lived most of the year in our campervan and tent, this is one of the last sunrises before we drive back home. It feels as if the snow just melted away while the days lasted forever underneath the midnight sun. End of August, the first aurora appeared, and then it started snowing. Soon, temperatures dropped further and the autumn colours faded away. As the days got shorter, the world around us turned white. Now, it won’t take long before the polar night sets in. Still that doesn’t mean all will be dark. On the contrary, the sky will assume all shades of pink, purple, blue, and occasionally, vibrantly green. The snow then reflects the faintest light, even when the sun stays hidden beneath the horizon. As the trees gather more and more snow, the reindeer dig up lichens. While our fingers, toes, and nose require our attention, their dense coats of fur keep them warm even in the coldest winter storm. But it’s not the harshness or the ruggedness that keeps calling us north—it’s the ever present feeling of peace and tranquility that we find here. With eight seasons of constant change, and a rich history and culture heavily intertwined with nature, Sápmi’s environment and people inspired me to dig deeper and explore further. So where did this deep connection come from? The first time going up a mountain in Northern Norway, strong winds blew in our faces. We had the summit to ourselves and looked out over a vast ocean with island after island rising up from it. The mountain chain curved as it disappeared into the horizon. Exposed to the elements, we felt like tiny drops at the edge of the world. Fresh air and limitless views went hand in hand with a liberating feeling of freedom. There was no other option but to feel inspired—though the impending dark clouds were a trigger to quickly head down again. Driving through Riksgränsen, inclement weather travelled with us and introduced us to the harsh reality of the tundra above the Arctic Circle. A snowstorm in May made us realize seasonal changes weren’t quite the same as what we’d been used to. Reindeer moving through this landscape only made the experience more impressive. But it was out hiking that we really felt closer to nature. Pitching the tent under a starry night sky, to find a field with ripe cloud- berries in front of us, with mirror-like lakes reflecting the surrounding mountains. Those are moments that stay with you forever. Zipping open the tent to see moose crossing the river delta below, courting each other in rutting season. Hiking up a cliff to gaze out over a lush river valley, full of life and colour. Drinking fresh glacial meltwater and breathing in pure air. Taking a break to watch the northern lights above. Looking out over seas of clouds, with only the highest mountains peeking above. Having owls hunt nearby underneath the midnight sun. Feeling the wind in my face. Contemplating the landscape below as it’s waking up slowly during countless misty mornings, watching how the light changes and everything transforms. Seeing how lakes freeze over and the whole landscape turns white. Sitting on a rock as hundreds of reindeer walk by, making their way to their winter grazing lands. And finally, snowshoeing amidst snowy giants during polar nights—trees that amass enormous quantities of frost, yet still stand tall.
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MOTHER VOLUME FOUR
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