bordering the jungle, with peaks and ridges on our left. The Pacific Ocean lies placidly in the east. It takes only 90 minutes to reach Wakunai, but then we must wait until 3pm for another PMV to take us up to Tokarao, a mountain village 25km inland. “Unless you want to hire a private transport for K200...” Jerom remarks. No way. It starts raining cats and dogs, and we take shelter under a shed. I begin to worry about the trek to Mt Balbi, which will be hellish if these conditions persist. “It is very cold on the mountain,” says Jerom. Pastor Messac, who comes to greet me, smiles reassuringly. “Don’t worry, it will
Woman from Tokarao village
be great weather tomorrow.” It is 6.20am and the day breaks over Tokarao. After a breakfast of hard- boiled eggs, coconut buns and coffee, we are set to go. The trail is very wet, and the high grasses of the jungle make my pants, shoes and socks totally soaked
in no time at all. We climb on a steep slope, making slow progress under the cover of tree ferns – locally known as ‘rotokas’ – while pale mountain pigeons (Gymnophaps solomonensis) make themselves heard in the foliage. This endemic species to Bougainville
and the Solomons is encountered at
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VOLUME 34 2023
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