August 2022

Urbain and Foodlab host women-only tastings year-round, including women- produced wines provided by importer Le Vin Dans Les Voiles . “I am drawn to natural wines because I love to sense a connection with the earth,” says Le Vin’s co-founder, Julie Audette. “I love the magic of winemaking. Maybe it’s innate to grow something and nurture it. Maybe it’s a question of authenticity, to be more in tune with our emotions.” Regardless, Audette believes the rise of natural wine in Montréal has much to do with local sensibilities and its draw for young and experienced chefs, inventive sommeliers, and ambitious restaurant owners. “In Montréal,” she says, “people care about what they consume.” A City for Toasting Of course, one need not be a woman or even knowledgeable about wine to experience the city’s booming natty revolution. On any given Saturday, locals and visitors pour into the William Gray Hotel to sample natural frizzante and fresh crevettes croustillantes overlooking Place Jacques-Cartier at the rooftop bar and terrasse Perché . At Ratafia in Little Italy, natural Ribelle and Riesling perfectly enhance delicate fresh prosciutto and melon reams. Meanwhile, newer spots, like Un po’ di Pi , offer small bites and organic bubbles with riverside views. Restaurant Pastel champions Québec produce curated from local farmers, paired with crisp whites and vibrant orange wines. One standout spot is the recently expanded Vin Mon Lapin , the brainchild of sommelier Vanya Filipovic, former beverage director of the famed Joe Beef, and her husband, chef Marc-Olivier Frappier. They fuse their comprehensive knowledge of natural wines with locally-sourced small plates like Gaspé Halibut with sunflower seeds or sea urchin omelet. At Le Vin Papillon , the pair’s sister venue, more than 300 carefully chosen wine labels encourage a leisurely evening of sampling. Entering the scene with a pop, Barbara , a white-hot new spot from chef and restaurateurs David Pellizari and Catherine Draws, serves elevated Italian fare and wines creatively classified by character and emotion rather than color. And at longtime favorite Candide , wine director Emily Campeau and chef John Winter Russell pair local and seasonal produce with an haute rustic charm on the Rue Saint-Martin.

TOP: The tasting loft of Le Vins Dans Les Voiles BOTTOM: Valériane Paré and Julie Audette, the co- founders of Le Vins Dans Le Voiles

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