Beaut Force An SD jeweler dreamt in patina during Covid. The result? A powerful ensemble of Brutalist-inspired art melded in sustainable materials.
The Brutalism Collection by K. Brunini Jewels enlists 18k rose gold, black oxidized sterling silver, copper verdigris, Angelskin coral, faceted amber, Australian opal bead strands and jade. Available at Neiman Marcus, Fashion Valley.
by Gillian Flynn
VERDIGRIS COPPER BURSTS with opal and white diamonds like a flower through the cracks of concrete. An intergalactic druzy mega-rock is set in white gold with star sapphires. This is what happens when acclaimed jewelry designer Katey Brunini was forced to stay at home the better part of two years, turning locally and inward for the new Brutalism Collection from K. Brunini Jewels. Her muse? Architect Louis Kahn. For the minimalist structure of La Jolla’s Salk Institute, he favored stripped down materials over decorative design. “In the past, copper might have been passed over in fine jewelry as an art form,” says Brunini,“but I loved the challenge of taking it from a rudimentary metal into a truly exalted state.”
For the last three decades, Brunini has traveled the world, seeking inspiration for her collections. She first honed her craft in Italy with Sicilian master goldsmiths whose ancient techniques are all but forgotten. Pieces from her award-winning oeuvre have been featured at The Smithsonian, Carnegie Museum, Art Basel and, closer to home, the GIA and San Diego Museum of Natural History. “Life is beautiful and brutal—interwoven and interconnected,” she explains. Brunini’s organic style balances color and texture, while enlisting exotic materials gathered from recycled and sustainable sources “to create awareness not only for their intrinsic beauty but in equal respect of the earth and Mother Nature herself.”
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AUGUST 2022
PHOTOS BY GEOFF RAGATZ
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