August 2022

FOOD + DRINK

Brewery as Social Force MUJERES BREW HOUSE Something special is brewing at Mujeres Brew House in Barrio Logan. Women-owned and women-led, Mujeres is a hub for local artisans, a music venue, an educational club, and a community gathering space where beer drinkers, families, dogs, and neighbors can come together safely, comfortably, and happily.

Hard-to-Pronounce Pastry HOMMAGE BAKEHOUSE Pacific Beach has a breakout baker in Justin Gaspar, who cut his teeth at the famed Manresa Bread in NorCal. At his shop, the runaway hit is the flaky, sweet and salty, crunchy-soft vennoiserie known as kouign-amann (pronounced “queen ah-mahn”), filled with apple butter, salted caramel ganache, strawberry rhubarb, and spiced plum. hommagebakehouse.com

Sunset Deck at a Local Winery DOMAINE ARTEFACT

Perch to Watch San Diego’s Growing Pains SENECA TRATTORIA

Domaine Artefact’s Escondido property is downright serene, a vineyard on rolling hills. Owned by locals Lynn LaChapelel and Mark Robinson, the latter is a former Vista High science teacher turned winemaker who’s producing Viogners, Marsannes, and Syrah-based reds. It’s also sustainability-first. domaineartefact.wine

One of the most drastic facelifts in Downtown’s modern history is happening right now at Broadway and PCH. And Seneca—Consortium Holdings’ Italian thing—has the best view of the future. It’s a nautical stunner with brass ceilings, high-gloss wood floors, fringe everywhere and a Miami amount of plants. senecatrattoria.com

Wholesale Abandonment of a French Tradition EMBER & RYE

In-N-Out Experience That’s Not In-N-Out HAYES BURGER

Check out more online at sdmag.com

At Richard Blais’ steakhouse at Park Hyatt Aviara, while everyone else is ogling the bone-ins and the wood- fired proteinapalooza, shift your gaze to the low-key star of the show. The garlic croissants—a loving hybrid between garlic bread and the infinitely layered pinnacle of French dough art. parkhyattaviara.com

All due respect to legends and icons, but it’s time to admit as a city that In- N-Out’s fries have always been flaccid disappointment sticks. Hayes Burger in Barrio Logan is a far superior burger- and-fries option (they’ve even got their own secret menu with Jimi Fries and “chile guero”). Plus, they have beer. hayesburger.com

Brewery for Beer Nerds WHITE LABS

Hot Dish That’s Not Hot SPICY HOUSE

Craft beer is a nerdy sport, but there are levels. The deepest level in town is White Labs—a fermentation laboratory and analytical testing facility in Miramar that also happens to have a small tasting room. Patrons can test their palate with side-by-side brews, each tweaked slightly to highlight specific yeast strains. Beer science is especially fun science. whitelabsbrewingco.com

It took years for the folks at Spicy House to stop asking, “Are you sure?” when I’d order the cold chicken with house special sauce. It’s also called “saliva chicken” because it’s good, and it’ll make your mouth water. Make it numb, too, thanks to the fiery pool of Sichuan peppercorn oil this cold poached chicken comes swimming in. spicyhousesandiego.com

Feelgood Hand-Off of a Municipal Heirloom MISTER A’S

When iconic restaurateur Bertrand Hug sold Mister A’s, he’d earned the right to find the highest bidder and backstroke in the ensuing financial largesse. Instead, he sold to longtime right-hand Ryan Thorsen. Thorsen has tapped designer Mauricio Couturier for a light sprucing of the mighty institution. asrestaurant.com

95 SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE

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