Arts & Culture PEOPLE
I’ve always believed chefs and cooks show love through their food, and Sanghavi is the epitome of that. Sanghavi’s regard for Tracy Borkum, Cucina Restaurants’ owner, tells us what she values—respect, growing beyond the familiar, and celebrating food. In terms of heroes,
Chef Aarti Sanghavi (left) and author Madhushree Ghosh connect over shared plates and shared experiences at Cucina Urbana in Bankers Hill.
she fangirls over chef Preeti Mistry for their fearlessness and their innovative spin on California cuisine. “I’d be tongue-tied if I met them in real life,” Sanghavi giggles. “They have changed what it means to be a food activist for me. I learn so much every day.” This past March, Women’s History Month, the Cucina group offered a unique pizza in its restaurants. Benefitting SD MAKE and lined with shaved Yukon gold potatoes, a simple green-garlic chutney, and whipped ricotta, the thin-crust California pie was garlanded with fresh pea tendrils and masala like a green goddess. A chef Aarti Sanghavi creation, it was—yes—a samosa, deconstructed. I smiled when I bit into the crispy crust: hints of seasoned dough, spiced potatoes, the green coriander chutney hitting with a burst of heat that’s uniquely Californian, with a nod to India. Subtle and yet bold. Much like chef Sanghavi.
42 JUNE 2023
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