SUMMER 2025
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CONTENTS
38 MAURITIUS
91 SUMMER MOUNTAINS
68 ROLE REVERSAL Toronto with a teen in charge 72 PEDAL PIONEERS Putting La Régalante to the test 78 LISBON WE LOVE YOU How to do Lisbon...fast 82 VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Scuba & life lessons in Indonesia
72 FRANCE
IN THIS ISSUE... TAKING OFF
88 ALL THE YOUNG DUDES Cowboy country with kids
SUMMER MOUNTAINS
92 HOMEGROWN HIMALAYAS Take to the Welsh mountains 96 HIGH SUMMER Sharing the love in Lech Zürs 98 COMING ROUND THE MOUNTAIN Mad Max meets Méribel
8 TAKING OFF NEWS What’s new in family travel for this summer 10 SCHOOL TRIP: NAPLES Pompeii, pizza and volcanoes 14 LITTLE WONDER Summery Stockholm in a weekend
44 SPICE OF LIFE All go at Mount Cinnamon Resort in Grenada 48 THE ROYAL TREATMENT A Greek island turns up some delightful surprises 52 BIG LOVE Montego Bay in Jamaica for first timers 56 LAID BACK & LUXE Crete is cool for summer
102 PEAK SEASON Breathing in Zillertal
104 MOUNTAINS TO THE MAX Summer goes off in Les Arcs 108 FOREVER WILD The Canadian Rockies with kids 112 ADVENTURES IN THE ALTERNATIVE ALPS Slovenia’s summer secrets 116 TRAVELS WITH MY AUNT Tempting teens with Morocco 118 ONE FOR THE ROAD Slow travel meets Portugal
18 IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS Four Seasons Hampshire 22 SIMPLY THE SEASIDE UK beaches for easy breaks 30 SHEER POETRY Dylan Coastal Resort, Wales
ADVENTURES
ESCAPES
60 HAPPY DAYS St. Pete-Clearwater beyond the beautiful beaches
38 THE RIGHT ATTITUDE A fresh take on Mauritius
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editor's letter
Seonaid, smitten by Lisbon, despite the weather
WE’RE PREDICTING SUMMER SUN, AND YOU CAN HOLD US TO IT... After a recent ‘spring’ weekend in Lisbon marked by relentless rain and down jackets for all, my take home is: take nothing for granted weather-wise. That said we’re happy to put good money on it being sunny in Greece this summer, with Rhodes sneaking as hot favourite on p48, followed closely by reliable-until- October Crete on p56. Summer mountains might be the new family beach holiday, but that’s nothing to do with the weather, although Katja Gaskell was lucky with sunshine in Slovenia (p112), and Les Arcs didn’t stint on big summer skies and just enough heat to take the chill out of the extreme Aiguille Rouge Zipline for Mike MacEacheran (p104). Despite my damp few days in Portugal my love for Lisbon remains undimmed (p78). Also, rain turns out to be one of the best excuses for taking shelter at Time Out Market Lisboa, even if it did earn a ‘big and over- stimulating’ crit from one of my daughters - the other two loved it, definitely made of sterner stuff. And with sterner stuff in mind, Rudolf Abraham was one of the first to cycle La Régalante (p72) in northern France last autumn and can’t recommend it highly enough for summer. But if our bet on good weather doesn’t come off, just pack your wellies and head for a UK beach (p22), no sun required.
Seonaid McGill Editor
@familytraveller @FamilyTraveller
Copyright © Akaroa Tech Limited, 12 Leicester Close, Henley on Thames, United Kingdom, RG92DL. All rights reserved. The magazine can be recycled through kerbside collection or at a recycling point. ISSN 2754-1290. familytraveller.com
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CONTRIBUTORS Meet some of the talented writers and family travellers who added their unique voice to our summer 2025 issue
familytraveller.com
JANE ANDERSON Currently travel editor at Prima magazine, Jane has travelled the globe with her children, now aged 19 and 17; visiting the French Caribbean when her daughter Scarlett was just three months old. In this issue, Jane lets her daughter take the lead on a trip to Toronto and beyond (see P68) AARON MILLAR Host and producer of Armchair Explorer and Family Traveller Podcast, Aaron is a travel journalist based in Colorado. He contributes to titles including The Times and The Guardian. In this issue he takes his family beyond beaches in St. Pete-Clearwater (see P60)
RUDOLF ABRAHAM Rudolf is an award-winning travel writer, photographer and
EDITORIAL EDITOR Seonaid McGill seonaid@familytraveller.com CREATIVE DIRECTOR Emma Jackson jackandsundesign@gmail.com CONTRIBUTORS
author. He has written over a dozen books, and contributed to many more, and his work is also widely published in magazines. In this issue he cycles La Régalante in France with his 14 year old daughter, Tamara (see P72)
Rudolf Abraham, Chris Allsop, Jane Anderson, Katie Bowman, Sam Bradley, Deborah Cicurel, Sara Darling, Katja Gaskell, Mike MacEacheran, Aaron Millar, Andrew Newall, Jody Robbins DIGITAL EDITOR Harriet Mallinson harriet@familytraveller.com CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Lisa McGarry lisa@familytraveller.com DIGITAL PERFORMANCE DIRECTOR Mary Braddick mary@familytraveller.com COMMERCIAL MANAGING DIRECTOR Rochelle Streater rochelle@familytraveller.com COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR John Lewisohn john@familytraveller.com SALES DIRECTOR Katie Amps katie@familytraveller.com VP ASIA-PACIFIC Barry Finneran barry@familytraveller.com COMMERCIAL MANAGER, MOUNTAINS Daniel Taylor daniel@familytraveller.com MIDDLE EAST MEDIA SALES Mamta Pillai mamta@sasmedia.net +971 50 3562723 CANADA MEDIA SALES Lori Dodd lori@doddmedia.com +1 (905) 885 0664 INDIA MEDIA SALES Rachna Gulati rachna.gulati@mediascope.co.in +91 (981)119 1702 PRINTED BY
KATJA GASKELL
Journalist and blogger Katja Gaskell has been travelling the
world since she was small, and calling it a job for the last 20+ years. She travels as a family when she can, and writes for a variety of titles. In this issue she swaps the French Alps for summer in Slovenia (see P112)
CHRIS ALLSOP Chris writes
DEBORAH CICUREL Freelance travel journalist and mum of two, Deborah loves
about travel and food for titles in the UK and the US, where he grew up. Now a father of two, he loves the spontaneity that travelling with his kids brings. In this issue he discovers home grown Himalayas in Eryri National Park (see P92)
introducing her kids to the joys of travel, whether that’s strapping on skis in France or posing with penguins in South Africa. In this issue she reveals her pick of best UK family beaches (see P22)
MIKE MACEACHERAN Journalist and author, Mike MacEacheran has visited more than
KATIE BOWMAN HELLO! Magazine’s first travel editor, Katie has been a
130 countries on assignment, covering everything from heli- skiing in Uzbekistan to competitive noodle eating in Japan. An adventure addict and dad of two, in this issue he puts summer in Les Arcs to the test (see P104)
travel writer for more than 20 years and always insists “trips with my daughter have been the best of my career”. In this issue she takes us on a whistlestop weekend tour of summery Stockholm (see P14)
Logical Choice lochoice.com
Cover Image: fotostorm/Getty Images
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Taking Off weekends away uk beaches city escapes sweet summer stays
TAKING OFF LITTLE TICKETS, BIG VIBES Summer’s alternative family festivals
Just wild enough
BIG LOVE, WALES The ‘UK’s friendliest small festival’ comes with a Big Top, cabaret and a line-up of kids’ activities, so who are we to argue? 17-20 July biglovefestival.co.uk 2000 TREES, BRISTOL If 2000 Trees has slipped under your radar, make good on it this summer. Quiet camping is back, along with the Forest School, and a just-for-kids Trash Metal stage in the woods is all new for 2025. 9-12 July 2000trees.co.uk STEALING THUNDER, LAKE DISTRICT This one had us at ‘storytelling festival’, plus you get to settle down for tall tales near Lake Windermere. 20-22 June stealingthunder.co.uk
CHICKENSTOCK, KENT Family and dog-friendly, Chickenstock bills itself as the BIG little festival. Catch it in Kent from 31 July to 3 August chickenstockfestival.co.uk ELDERFLOWER FIELDS, SUSSEX Bringing everything from kayaking and treetop climbing to a Pop-Up Science Festival, Elderflower is winning our hearts, again. 23-26 May elderflowerfields.co.uk
UK’s (almost)wild summer swims
SEA LANES BRIGHTON If you want to be on the beach, but not in the (freezing) sea, 50m Sea Lanes Brighton is perched next to the pebbles, heated year round and laned for various types of swimmers. It only opened in 2023, so it’s fresh as a fresh thing too. sealanesbrighton.co.uk WOODY BAY TIDAL POOL Hard to believe this one isn’t a natural phenomena, rather than the work of inventive Victorians. Described as a spa-like experience, it’s more of a float than swim space, but prepare to be enchanted. Between Ilfracombe and Lynton, North Devon HILLINGDON LIDO Vintage lido vibes, but fully restored to its 1930’s splendour, Hillingdon Lido brings the big pool and adds cascades, heated kids’ pools and sun decks. Uxbridge. better.org.uk WESTWARD HO! Pack your swim shoes and watch the tides, Westward Ho! is another great Victorian, and a real open-water rock sea pool. It’s free and, thanks to sloping sides, accessible too. Bideford, North Devon. visitwestwardho.co.uk
IT’S A ROLLERCOASTER What’s new for summer 2025 MAKING EGYPT, YOUNG V&A There’s a little bit of Ancient Egypt in just about everything and Making Egypt at Young V&A has the proof this summer. vam.ac.uk UNIVERSAL EPIC UNIVERSE, ORLANDO Inspired by the heavens, stars and constellations, the brand new Universal Epic Universe immersive theme park opens 22 May in Orlando. universalorlando.com AMSTERDAM 750 Amsterdam celebrates turning 750 this October, get in early for Festival on the Ring A10 on 21 June, it’s the longest day of the year and sounds like a fun old time. iamsterdam.com RAINFOREST WILD ASIA, SINGAPORE Asia’s first wildlife adventure park, the latest addition to Mandai Reserve in Singapore, is home to 36 free-roaming animals species and wild family activities. mandai.com
Making Egypt, Young V&A
EASTER EXTRA
Château Capitoul in Narbonne is offering French language courses for teens this Easter. Plus, it’s adding new water sports on the Med to its line-up of family activities for 2025, including SUP, wing foil, windsurfing
and wakeboarding. chateaucapitoul.com
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Kwells 300 microgram tablets. For the prevention of travel sickness. Contains Hyoscine Hydrobromide 300 microgram. Suitable for adults and children aged 10+. Kwells Kids 150 microgram tablets. For the prevention of travel sickness. Contains Hyoscine Hydrobromide 150 microgram. Suitable for children aged 4+. Always read the label.
Naples the family traveller school trip A n unforgettable, head-over-heels immersion in all things Italian, nothing conjures up Naples more vividly than its Quartieri Spagnoli, or Spanish Quarter; think narrow, inclined streets lined with colourful market stalls and cafés, small grocery shops, Naples is a city like no other, with atmosphere in spades, Pompeii on its doorstep and, arguably, Italy’s best pizza. Rudolf Abraham and his teenage daughter spent a weekend exploring
windows with laundry hanging above them, and a never-ending succession of mopeds flying past. This is also where you’ll find the city’s best street art, including the famous Maradona mural on Via Emanuele de Dio. And while you’re here, don’t miss La Dolcezza Degli Dei, a fabulous little chocolate shop just off Piazza Caritá. Although the must-eat in Naples is, of course, genuine Neapolitan pizza, and Pizzeria Mazzotti on Piazza Caritá is one of the very best. ‘Naples is pizza, pizza is Naples,’ so said its owner, Paolo Surace, when I interviewed him a few years ago. The true Neapolitan crust is a revelation – poke it with your finger and it will spring back up. If it doesn’t, another of the most respected pizza- makers in Naples once told me, only half jokingly, you should probably just leave. Conversely, the base should be almost wafer thin, and smothered with delicious sauce and fresh toppings which scream Mediterranean sunshine: we can highly recommend courgette flowers. Then, because there is simply no such thing as too much pizza in Naples, we suggest you try the simply named Al22 Pizzeria. Their eggplant parmigiana is also impressive and frankly should win awards - even my non-aubergine-eating 14 year old put aside her prejudices and stole half of mine. Something to note when you’re seeking out pizzeria: look for accreditation by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, it’s the official mark of authenticity. But Naples isn’t just pizza, so make sure you try some sfogliatelle, the city’s irresistible signature pastry. Think a mouthwateringly good custard crème filling, wrapped in the crispiest, flakiest
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NAPLES
BIG STUFF Clockwise from far left: the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius; National Archaeological Museum of Naples; bust of Pulcinella
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pastry known to humankind. It’s best eaten warm, and inevitably followed by the need to order another one.
Can you tell I’m a fan? Street vendors sell them, or even better, grab one of the tables at Caffe Leopoldo Infante on Via Toledo, which will also tempt you with impeccable coffee, gelato to die for, and big wedges of cake. To walk off all those carbs, and make sense of Naples’ phenomenally compressed and exquisitely chaotic topography - dictated by sitting between a volcano and the sea - you have to see the city from above. So climb up from the Spanish Quarter to Corso Vittorio Emanuele. The views from here are stupendous, taking in the whole sweep of the city, with Vesuvius rising on one side, and the Sorrento peninsula and Capri out across the Bay of Naples. Centro Storico is another atmosphere-laden part of Naples, where kids can’t resist the marvellous “To make sense of Naples you have to see the city from above” maze of narrow alleys and cobbled squares. It’s also here that you’ll find the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, as well as the famous statue of Pulcinella - rub his nose for good luck. Although, our particular Centro Storico recommendation is Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo. If you only visit one church in Naples, make it this one and don’t be put off by the austere facade. The interior is a vast, soaring, hushed and genuinely breathtaking Baroque wonder, and it was undoubtedly a highlight of our visit. Street art flourishes in the historic quarter too, along with a host of vendors selling street food and Naples-inspired kitsch. And if you’re looking for the entrance to the Underground Naples tours, it’s in this district as well. I have to admit, the fun of these tours came as a complete surprise to me. Set about 40m below street level, they follow a small part of the estimated 450km of abandoned tunnels which are carved out of soft volcanic rock under the city - an astonishing 2 million square metres in total. The experience isn’t really suited to younger kids, but older ones will be fascinated to hear about 2,400 years of Naples’ history from the time of the ancient Greeks - who originally quarried the tunnels to build their newly founded city above - through subterranean Roman aqueducts to their most recent incarnation as air raid shelters during WWII. The tours last around two hours and my advice is to book online, this is one of the most popular things to do in the city and slots sell out fast, especially during summer. It’s a given that the biggest archaeological draw in and around Naples is Pompeii, but before you
head out of the city to the remarkable site itself, visit the National Archaeological Museum of Naples to gaze on some of Pompeii’s rescued treasures. Among other wonders here, are the dazzling mosaics from the Casa del Fauno – one of Pompeii’s grandest palaces – along with other mosaics from Herculanuem, and sculptures the size of giants from the celebrated Farnese Collection: some of the finest examples of Greco-Roman art in the world. We visited Pompeii for half-a-day, but you could easily spend a lot longer, as the site is vast. How
STREET LIFE From top: back streets of Naples; street art, Naples
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NAPLES
vast is hard to comprehend until you’re there, but keep the words ‘entire ruined city’ in your mind and you have an inkling of the scale. It’s fair to say that there is probably nowhere else that brings the ancient Roman world to life more vividly for kids than this archaeological marvel, and everyone seems to know it, so we were relieved to discover they put a daily cap on visitor numbers, which means it’s always busy, inevitably, but it doesn’t feel too overwhelming. That said, it’s another one to book online and you definitely want to get tickets which include the suburban villas, because on no account should you miss the breathtaking two-millennia-old frescoes at the Villa of the Mysteries. Getting to Pompeii is easy, just take a direct train from Napoli Piazza Garibaldi station, underneath Napoli Centrale, to Pompeii station, then catch the shuttle bus to Porta Marina, the site’s main entrance. Remember to take snacks, water (the cafe at Pompeii tends to be packed to overflowing) and hats, as well as sunscreen. And on the train ride back, sit on the left, and you’ll be treated to a sunset across the Bay of Naples. Speaking of sunsets, Naples is awash with places to sleep and we were delighted with our choice of excellent Le Corti del Re in the Spanish Quarter. A B&B on the upper floors of an old apartment building, it features comfortable and newly- decorated double, twin and family rooms. The feel is friendly and welcoming, and it’s within easy walking distance of Centro Storico. Just be aware, as in any older Neapolitan apartment building worth its salt, there’s a very small lift, but I can testify that teenagers find it quaint.
DIG DOWN From top: Naples Underground; the Granary, Pompeii; Pompeii
the lowdown
HOW TO GET THERE Direct UK flights to Naples from 2 hours, 40 minutes WHERE TO STAY
Le Corti del Re, Family Room, B&B (2 adults, 2 children) from £143 per night lecortidelre.eu GOOD TO KNOW Underground Naples napolisotterranea.org National Archaeological Museum of Naples museoarcheologiconapoli.it Pompeii
pompeiisites.org Pizzeria Mattozzi ristorantemattozzi.it Al22 Pizzeria al22pizzeria.it
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XXXXX
ISLAND CITY Stockholm Archipelago
LITTLE WONDER Stockholm
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STOCKHOLM
City centre rollercoasters, cinnamon buns and messing about in boats are just a few things that make a long weekend in Stockholm so appealing to kids. Katie Bowman Cool to be clever
Not just for older kids, but little ones too – with historic dress-up costumes and play scenes - The Nobel Prize Museum deserves just an hour of your time. That’s all you need to absorb this excellent one-room museum, which celebrates the achievements of past Nobel winners. It’s great souvenir territory too, with a gift shop selling children’s books and educational toys, as well as jewellery made from the same metal as the famous medals. Seek out the story of Malala Yousafzai from Pakistan, the youngest ever winner of the Nobel Peace Prize; the museum displays the scarf she wore when speaking before the United
Gimme, gimme, gimme Even those too young to remember Abba’s first number one hit – Waterloo – which won them Eurovision in 1974 and kickstarted a pop-tastic career, still know the words to Dancing Queen and Mamma Mia. That’s why everyone can’t help but love Abba the Museum. And thanks to high-tech cinema screen montages, costume displays and Abba waxworks, this is an experience for little kids as well as oldies; in fact, you can even sing on stage with Agnetha and Anni-Frid at a virtual concert, and record a hit track in the sound booth. The Abba Museum is next door to Grona Lund theme park (which closes as late as 10pm), so tick them both off on the same day to save time. abbathemuseum.com
Nations aged 16. nobelprize museum. se
Messing about in boats A boat ride out to explore the Stockholm archipelago is a must-do, as the Swedish flag flaps in the breeze and the bright sunshine warrants sunglasses even in January. Stromma is the city’s shipping company, which sails “Cinderella” boats to the islands May-October. Alight at Grinda, a forested islet, where you can rent a kayak or SUP, go wild swimming, take a hike, or just order a pear cider to sit in the sun and watch the yachts. In winter, Stromma also runs ice-breaker boat trips, exploring the city’s quaysides and inner archipelago; if want to sit outside on deck they provide pelts and blankets to keep you warm. stromma.com
Designer digs Looking like a high-tech HQ or a superhero movie location – all black glass, sleek angles and sharp corners - Hotel Clarion Sign is actually an affordable stay in a brilliantly central location (near the station). The design focus is evident inside too, with pieces of furniture from Scandinavian stars Hans Wegner and Arne Jacobsen. This place is suited to families in summer thanks to its outdoor rooftop pool (a rarity in Sweden) and in winter because of its cosy lounges with live music and never-ending breakfast buffet. Family Room (2 adults, 2 children) B&B from £193 per night strawberryhotels.com
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Meatballs and more Three restaurants were big winners with our family. First up, Griffins Steakhouse, which is handily near Stockholm Central Station (for many hotels and the Arlanda airport train). Beyond its crowd-pleasing steaks, Griffins also serves Swedish pork belly and a farm chicken and fries that kids beg to return for. Meanwhile, Berns is the best brunch spot in town (Saturday and Sunday only, so book ahead), with its famous buffet that runs from herring to made-on-the-spot sushi to cinnamon buns and pastries. To dine in its historic ballroom is an experience in itself. And – call us predictable – but we loved our trip to Ikea for meatballs; the central location on Hamngatan and the novelty of the Swedish krona prices made it a thrill of a meal. griffinssteakhouse.se; berns.se; ikea.com
Ride the rollercoaster Not many world capitals can claim to have a theme park in the city centre, but that’s the way Stockholm rolls – or rather, rides – choosing to give prime real estate to Grona Lund’s rollercoasters in order to keep locals, families and visitors in town, rather than fleeing to the fringes. Serious riders will love Monster (painted all black) where suspended seats toss and turn and Insane (in which back-to-front seats go the full 360), while nostalgic types will appreciate old-school attractions such as Skeeball and the shooting gallery. We particularly loved Kattingflygaren: old-fashioned swings that whizz over the water for great views of surrounding Djurgarden neighbourhood. gronalund.com
Midsummer, Skansen
Historic hotel hasselbacken Even if you’re not lucky enough to be checking in, we recommend a trip to Hotel Hasselbacken on leafy island Djurgarden, for its outdoor terrace restaurant, where kids can play table tennis or skittles while grown-ups linger over lunch. The historic hotel is the home of the Hasselbacken potato – baked and sliced fan-style, covered in cheese or butter – so children will be happy to hang around. Overnight guests can use the hotel sauna and bicycles, or decompress each evening in stylish rooms (with internationally known Svenskt Tenn fabrics), many of which have water views. This is a quintessentially Swedish stay and as family-focused as hotels get. Junior Suite (2 adults, 2 children) B&B from £315 per night hasselbacken.com
Playtime in the animal garden Literally meaning “animal garden”, Djurgarden is the greenest of Stockholm’s island neighbourhoods and a lovely place to run – or cycle - off steam. Apart from the obvious attractions of Grona Lund theme park, you’ll find Skansen, which is the world’s oldest outdoor museum and showcases Swedish nature and culture; there are farmyard animals, craft days and replica homes where actors introduce visitors to ancient customs such as pottery, baking and reindeer rearing. For free fun, follow the new sculpture trail in Princess Estelle Park (named after Princess Estelle of Sweden, age 13), where contemporary installations made from metal, wood, and even lifebelts, are on display in amazing rural locations. skansen.se
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STOCKHOLM
AND WHAT TO PACK... Stockholm
£110 CHRISTINA RHODE christinarohde.com
£9 H&M hm.com
£73 MINI RODINI minirodini.com
£64 MINI RODINI minirodini.com
£29 ARKET arket.com
£21 ARKET arket.com
GET YOUR SMOCK ON FOR STOCKHOLM
£24 POLARN O. PYRET polarnopyret.co.uk
£5 H&M hm.com
£46 ISBJÖRN OF SWEDEN isbjornofsweden.com
£33 MINI RODINI minirodini.com
TAKE HOME A TRAD SCARLET HORSE
£15 DALA HORSES theswedishwoodenhorse.com
£12 PIPPI LONGSTOCKING blackwells.co.uk
£24 POLARN O. PYRET polarnopyret.co.uk
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Elevated English country house charm
Elegantly appointed room
Milk and cookies
On a delightful family weekend at Four Seasons Hampshire Rochelle Streater comes to the conclusion it’s all the small details that make a difference IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS enthusiasm was infectious, and each little adventure on the grounds added to the sense of excitement. We were then led down stately hallways to our elegantly
appointed room, where every detail was clearly designed with families in mind. A friendly message on the mirror; children’s toiletries; teddies; little stools at the sink, and cookies and milk - served in real milk bottles - made the girls feel both special, and at home. The suite itself featured a double bed alongside a sofa bed, with every detail attended to. Even the turn-down service was impeccable: the sofa bed was taken out and made every night, then tidied away in the morning. Dinner at the hotel restaurant further impressed us. A knowledgeable sommelier curated wines to match our meal, and the culinary team even prepared special dishes for the kids after finding out their preferences. When the children finished their meals, they were whisked away to gaze out the
A fter visiting Peppa Pig World, which is only a unload our bags, assisted the kids out of the car, and even valet-parked it for us, setting the tone for a delightfully pampered visit. After a swift check‐in, our girls were handed personalised “passport treasure hunt” books, complete with a mission to collect stamps from various stops around the estate. Their 40-minute drive away, we arrived at a beautiful estate with a winding drive. Our stay began with a welcoming ease: the staff immediately helped
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ENGLAND
Freya takes tea
pint- size pony pampering session
Four Seasons Hampshire
View of the estate
Every thoughtful touch spoke of a commitment to making our stay unforgettable, from meticulously curated activities to personal gifts: each child received a beautifully crafted board game upon completing their stamp book. In every way, the staff at Four Seasons Hampshire went above and beyond, creating a family experience that was both genuinely hospitable and brimming with delightful surprises.
windows, giving us a rare chance to enjoy a quiet dinner together. The highlight of the evening was an unexpected birthday surprise for my daughter: a personalised cake with candles, accompanied by a heartfelt serenade. Breakfast the next morning was equally memorable, with balloons adorning the table and delightful “babyccinos” waiting to be enjoyed. With much of the food sourced from the estate’s own gardens, the meal felt as authentic as the rest of our experience. The day continued with an engaging stamp hunt that led us through the well-kept gardens, as well as a visit to the veg patch and a trip to the stables. A horse riding lesson and a gentle ride around the estate made a wonderful family adventure. But the girls’ excitement peaked when they met, and even helped groom, the resident Shetland ponies in a cosy stable classroom. Our perfect afternoon concluded with a relaxing tea time in the sunroom, followed by a splash in the pool area, complete with a slide, water features, and a shallow zone for younger children. I even managed to fit in a brief visit to the spa, which featured a sauna and steam room, while dad kept the kids entertained.
the lowdown
HOW TO GET THERE London to Four Seasons Hampshire from 1 hour, 20 minutes WHERE TO STAY Four Seasons Hampshire, Mildmay Suite (2 adults, 2 children) from £4,800 per night fourseasons.com
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SOUL SOOTHING Another perfect beach day, Pensacola
FIND YOUR WAY TO BEACH ™
F lorida’s western gate to the Sunshine State and one of the beachiest places in the US, Pensacola is also the first European settlement in America. It mixes stunning beaches, charming cities and a past that stretches back more than 460 years. Well-preserved Pensacola Village is historic and lots of fun. On the coast you can explore pre-Civil War era military forts, and if you like museums, Pensacola has those too. It’s been said there’s something magical about the beaches here, and just stepping onto the sand calms you. Although, with everything from water sports to family festivals aplenty, it’s well beyond soul-soothing. Pensacola’s gleaming white sands stretch along the Gulf for miles and the lively and lifeguarded main beaches are made for families. For total escapism, head to Perdido Key, known as the ‘lost’ barrier island, to find flawless sand dunes. Or take the adventure up a notch and go exploring around the Perdido Key-area parks, which include Big Lagoon State Park, Tarklin Bayou Preserve and Johnson Beach. Pensacola Beach, Fort Pickens, Perdido Key and Opal Beach are also part of the Gulf Islands National Seashore: the longest federally-protected seashore in the US. This eco-wonder is a Pensacola, located in Northwest Florida, is the state’s most westerly city. Situated on the Gulf Coast, it is officially The Way To Beach™. Our kids love it here, yours will too.
Historic Pensacola Village
Pensacola Lighthouse
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Sailing off the coast of Pensacola
haven for birds, but you can also spot dolphin and cow nose rays swimming, and it’s even a nesting ground for sea turtles. There are so many different ways to beach in Pensacola, but we highly-recommend nature tours to discover the wetlands and marshes. The Footprints in the Sand Eco-Trail is another incredible experience for kids. Although, if you want to create your own adventure, follow miles of trails and boardwalks leading to off-the-beaten-path places that will stay with you long after you’ve shaken the last of the sand out of your shoes back home. Explore Pensacola’s waterways by canoe, kayak or paddleboard, with plenty of unique excursions to choose from. Try a Glow Paddle tour on Pensacola Beach, where clear kayaks with LED lights illuminate the water for a mesmerising nighttime adventure. There’s no shortage of places to paddle or expert outfitters either. Head to Big Lagoon State Park to explore part of the Florida Circumnavigational Saltwater Paddling Trail, which starts in the Pensacola Bay Area. A dolphin cruise is another unforgettable thrill, and again, there are plenty of choices, so finding one to suit your kids is easy. There’s even a dolphin cruise to coincide with the Blue Angels practices, if you need a bit of extra excitement. Or maybe nothing will do but waterpark thrills? Splash City Adventure, right in the heart of Pensacola, or Laguna’s Adventure Park on Pensacola Beach, are family favorites. Of course, the legendary Blue Angels also call Pensacola home and they put on two spectacular air shows here each year – one over Pensacola Beach in July and a homecoming show on base every autumn, to close out their season. And from March until October you can also watch them practicing from several local vantage points, including Fort Pickens. Be sure to tell your kids that seeing a practice session earns them the right to call the squadron, ‘Our Blues’, just like the locals do. It’s a Pensacola tradition, just ask anyone lucky enough to live here. So now you know, whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, or a little bit of both, Pensacola, Florida is waiting.
Glow Paddle tours
Exploring Fort Pickens
Family fun, Pensacola
Plan your next family beach holiday with visitpensacola.com
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UK BEACHES
SEASIDE SIMPLY THE Pack light, bring the dog too and make for some stunning beaches you won’t believe are in the UK, and neither will your kids. Deborah Cicurel
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PEDN VOUNDER BEACH, CORNWALL Cornwall is well-known for its stunning beaches, but Pedn Vounder just might be the best of them all. Surrounded by craggy granite cliffs, and tucked away between Logan Rock and Porthcurno Beach, this teeny cove is mind-blowingly beautiful, and - despite an increasing presence on social media thanks to its appearance on Poldark - still appealingly remote. There are two paid car parks about a 20 minute walk away from the beach, and keep in mind that you have to sing for your supper to make the most of Pedn Vounder, as getting there means quite a scramble down a steep-ish cliff, as well as timing your trip around the tide. So travel light, stick with a picnic, water and towels. And just so you know, it’s unofficially a naturist beach. HOW TO GET THERE: 20 minutes southwest of Penzance, Cornwall WHERE TO STAY: Seagull Cottage, Penzance, 2-Bedroom Holiday Cottage (2 adults, 2 children) from £347 per week classic.co.uk
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UK BEACHES
BLACKPOOL SANDS, SOUTH DEVON Thanks to its backdrop of verdant pines, rugged clifftops and thick evergreen trees, Blackpool Sands is an enduring family favourite that’s not just a pretty face. The privately-owned shingle sand beach is packed with activities for the whole family. Swelter in a newly-launched sauna on the beach, tap your feet to live music every Saturday morning, build sandcastles in purpose-built sandpits or acquaint yourself with Devon’s coastline on guided paddleboard or sea kayak trips through secret coves. Parents will appreciate the convenience of this well-prepared beach: there are showers, baby-changing areas and equipment hire, as well as lifeguards on duty and a café. The sea here is award-winningly clean, but make sure you pack water shoes for splashing about, so there are no complaints about pesky pebbles under little feet. HOW TO GET THERE: 40 minutes south of Paignton on the south Devon coast WHERE TO STAY: Sunnybeach Holiday Apartments, Paignton, Salty Dog Apartment (2 adults, 2 children) from £167 per night sunny-beach.co.uk
BARAFUNDLE BAY BEACH, PEMBROKESHIRE Recently crowned the UK’s cleanest beach, Pembrokeshire’s Barafundle Bay will have you blinking and rubbing your eyes to make sure you haven’t accidentally arrived in Fiji. The tiny, isolated cove rewards its few visitors with impeccably clear waters, soft golden sands and dreamy views of sloping dunes, vertiginous cliffs and pine trees. It’s harder work to get there than most of the other beaches, as it’s a half mile walk over cliffs from the nearest car park at Stackpole Quay, and it’s not suitable for buggies due to some steep steps. However, this more challenging route keeps Barafundle Bay feeling undiscovered and remote even on the warmest of summer days. Once there, you and your kids will feel like intrepid explorers happening upon a desert island as you enjoy the solitude of the scenery or a chilly dip in the sea, if you dare. HOW TO GET THERE: 30 minutes west of Tenby on the Pembrokeshire coast, southwest Wales WHERE TO STAY: Shellstone by Wigwam Holidays, Tenby, Standard Cabin (2 adults, 2 children) from £134 per night wigwamholidays.com
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HOLKHAM BEACH, NORFOLK Holkham Beach, on the North Norfolk Coast, was a favourite haunt of Queen Elizabeth II, and is such a cinematic spot that it’s featured as a location in movies as diverse as Shakespeare in Love and Deadpool & Wolverine. Kids adore exploring the swathes of fine pale sand, shady pine forests and rolling dunes that make up part of the Holkham National Nature Reserve, as well as channelling their inner David Attenborough and discovering shy wildlife. You can even spot grey seals splashing about or snoozing on the sand here, and horses galloping on the water’s edge aren’t an unusual sight. The beach seems to stretch endlessly, so make the most of all that space and take a long walk to tire out the kids. The vast spread also means you’ll always find a quiet spot, even in summer. There’s a car park on Lady Anne’s Drive, off the main coastal road, and from there, a tree-lined boardwalk goes down to the beach. HOW TO GET THERE: 16 minutes west of Wells-next- the-Sea, North Norfolk WHERE TO STAY: Pinewoods Holiday Park, Wells- next-the-Sea, 2-Bedroom Saltmarsh Lodge (2 adults, 2 children) from £991 per week pinewoods.co.uk
CAMBER SANDS, EAST SUSSEX
Stretching out for gloriously unbroken miles on the Sussex coast, Camber Sands offers arresting views and everything from kitesurfing and kayaking to stand-up paddleboarding. If you’re feeling bold, wade in the calm, shallow waters. It’s also prime kite flying territory or you can hop on board one of the local dinghy tours to spot playful seals lounging around offshore. Pack a picnic for this one too and watch kids’ eyes light up when they spot the dramatic backdrop of undulating dunes: home to over 250 species of plants and tiny wildlife. At low tide, stretches of damp sand make fertile foundations for sprawling sandcastles, and there’s free parking at Broomhill car park, so you can walk directly onto the beach. HOW TO GET THERE: 10 minutes’ walk from Camber on the East Sussex coast WHERE TO STAY: Stowaway Beach House, Camber, 2-Bedroom Holiday House (2 adults, 2 children) from £735 per week beachhousecamber.com
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UK BEACHES
COMPTON BEACH, ISLE OF WIGHT
Tie up your hair, get ready for some wind and delve into a world of prehistoric adventure. Compton Bay, on the southwest coast of the Isle of Wight, is not only packed with ancient fossils you can find on the beach, it also has real dinosaur footprints, millions of years old. These sandstone casts can be seen at low tide, and will impress even the most blasé of teens. If the fact that the Isle of Wight is known as the “Dinosaur Capital of the UK” still isn’t enough to get kids excited, the promise of windblown fun should do it: Compton is the place to try out kitesurfing, windsurfing, and, even regular surfing. Bring your dog and stroll on two miles of breezy beach, drinking in views of dramatic sandstone cliffs, rolling waves and colourful paragliders floating by. HOW TO GET THERE: Portsmouth to Isle of Wight ferry from 45 minutes wightlink.co.uk WHERE TO STAY: Weston Manor, Freshwater, B&B, Family Room(2 adults, 2 children) from £145 per night westonmanor-bandb.co.uk
LUNAN BAY, MONTROSE As any parent knows, we all need a little peace and quiet now and then, and secluded, spotless Lunan Bay, on Scotland’s Angus coast, is a great place to find it. A far cry from crowds, this two-mile stretch of glorious dune-backed sands is the place to go if you want the place to yourself. The beach is overlooked by an impressive red sandstone ruin dating back several centuries and you can tell your kids tales of how Lunan Bay’s Red Castle was originally built as a defence against Viking invaders. Speaking of journeying back in time, there won’t be a phone in sight as you get stuck into all the adventures here, think surfing, horse riding, birdwatching, swimming, kayaking, fishing, and even hunting for genuine gemstones in the sand. HOW TO GET THERE: 11 minutes’ drive south of Montrose in Angus WHERE TO STAY: Kinblethmont House, The Stables Holiday Cottage (2 adults, 2 children) from £500 per week kinblethmont.com
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10 Things we love about
With 60 miles of beaches, warm weather year-round and even warmer Southern hospitality, it’s impossible not to love Myrtle Beach in South Carolina
T here are 1000s of things to love about Myrtle Beach in South Carolina: 2,000 restaurants to start with! So it took us a minute to pick just 10 best of the best. But this is only a hint of what’s lovable about ‘America’s beachiest beach’. Take our advice, make it your next family beach holiday and find your own top ten. 1 THE GRAND STRAND If you’re in the know, The Grand Strand is what they call Myrtle Beach’s 60 mile stretch of Atlantic coast, which includes several of South Carolina’s loveliest beaches. 2 MINI GOLF CAPITAL OF THE WORLD The most fun destination nickname we’ve heard in a long time, and it’s true. Myrtle Beach is home to more than 30 miniature golf courses: wait until your kids hear about the live volcano. 3 HUNTINGTON BEACH STATE PARK It costs you as little as £4 to visit this 2,500- acre state park where you can play on the beach, hike family-friendly trails, look out for over 300 species of birds, spot rare wildlife, have a picnic or
just enjoy the sun: 25° is the average year-round temperature in Myrtle Beach. 4 “AMERICA’S BOARDWALK” Stretching for over a mile along the beachfront - the views are amazing - Myrtle Beach Boardwalk has enough history to earn the title “America’s Boardwalk’, but it feels fresh as an Atlantic breeze. You’ll find colourful shops and restaurants here, along with plenty of space to enjoy nature, and it’s also where to ride the phenomenal SkyWheel Myrtle Beach. 5 OVER 2,000 RESTAURANTS Myrtle Beach is South Carolina’s foodie heaven, home to more than 2,000 restaurants and the place to try traditional Lowcountry cooking, Southern classics, fresh seafood and creations by some of the state’s finest chefs. 6 FAMILY ROAD TRIPS The Grand Strand is more than just beaches, it connects 14 unique Myrtle Beach communities. If you’re keen to explore, it also makes a perfect, kid-friendly road trip.
FRESH Myrtle Beach Boardwalk
FUN Captain Hook’s Mini Golf
FOODIE Big Mikes, Myrtle Beach
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BEACH DAYS Surfside Beach, Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
WATERWORLD Ripley’s Aquarium of Myrtle Beach
FREEWHEELING Exploring Myrtle Beach
7 MYRTLE BEACH SOUNDTRACK Music is live in Myrtle Beach, all the time, and you can’t go anywhere without running into some sweet sounds, from beach bars and restaurants to theatres and festivals. 8 TRUE SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY We’re not sure if it’s the wonderful weather - year round sun does soothe the soul - or if it’s just the way they roll round these parts, but you’ll find a warm, southern welcome everywhere in Myrtle Beach, from hotels and restaurants to state parks and beaches. 9 MYRTLE WAVES WATERPARK Waterparks are another reason to love the good weather in Myrtle Beach, and this one is the largest in South Carolina. Top local tip: book your family a cabana for the day. 10 PAVILION PARK Between its classic nostalgia rides, rollercoasters, white knucklers and cute attractions for younger kids, it’s no surprise that Pavilion Park is on the list of firm family favourites. It’s also part of Broadway at the Beach, the largest entertainment complex in South Carolina, which sits right at the heart of Myrtle Beach.
Visit Myrtle Beach, South Carolina visitmyrtlebeach.com
For everything you need to plan your next family holiday on America’s beachiest beach
SHEER POETRY
Craving an escape from London, Breeana Nolan finds the perfect weekend retreat for families at Dylan Coastal Resort in southwest Wales
N estled along the breathtaking coast of southwest Wales, Dylan Coastal Resort in Laugharne blends luxury and natural beauty, all wrapped up in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. What I didn’t expect was a comforting reminder of home, as this stretch of the Welsh coast bears an uncanny resemblance to the south coast of New South Wales in Australia and, it turns out, shares much the same laid-back charm.
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WALES
BE INSPIRED Dylan Thomas Boathouse, Laugharne
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XXXXX WALES
INSPIRED From top: Dylan Coastal Resort; MINI Countryman Electric
The lodges at Dylan Coastal Resort aren’t short on charm either and every detail seems designed to enhance relaxation. The open-plan layouts, sleek interiors, and high-end appliances make it easy to settle in and unwind. My personal favourite? The private outdoor terrace, complete with a jacuzzi overlooking the estuary. There’s something almost poetic about sipping a morning coffee or an evening glass of bubbles while watching the sunrise or sunset and the ever-changing tides. Beyond the lodges, Milk Wood House Spa is, without a doubt, the crown jewel of Dylan Coastal Resort and stepping into its hydrotherapy infinity pool I felt an instant sense of serenity. The spa also offers everything from rejuvenating massages to luxurious facials, and for those who want to keep up with their fitness routine, the gym’s view is very motivating. But my perfect itinerary was simple: an easy session at the gym, then time in the pool and spa; followed by a leisurely drink at the Milk Wood Bar & Restaurant. Food is an essential part of any weekend escape, and Milk Wood Bar & Restaurant strikes the right balance of elevated, yet unpretentious, and the atmosphere is perfect, whether you’re in the mood for a quiet meal or keen to mingle. If you want to stretch your culinary
through the charming town, it’s not difficult to imagine the poet drawing inspiration here. Although for me, it was a visit to his former home, the Dylan Thomas Boathouse, and gazing over the same views he must have seen so many times, that
really made me feel part of his world. Browns Hotel, where we enjoyed that outstanding Chateaubriand, was also a favourite Dylan Thomas haunt, and seems his spirit is alive and well, as even on the wintery Sunday night we dropped in, the place was buzzing with a lively
“LAUGHARNE HAS DEEP-ROOTED LINKS TO DYLAN THOMAS”
horizons just a little, I can highly recommend a meal at Dexter’s, the in-house restaurant at Browns Hotel. The Chateaubriand for Two was an absolute
mix of locals and visitors. Another local literary secret is Shell Cottage, just a short drive from Laugharne in Freshwater West, which Harry Potter fans will recognise as the setting for Dobby’s farewell scene in The Deathly Hallows’ movie. For those looking to venture beyond Laugharne, the nearby
standout and could easily have fed four. Their cheese soufflé was another indulgent delight: light, airy, packed with flavour and a testament to the restaurant’s passion for refining comfort food. You might have guessed by now that Laugharne has deep-rooted connections to Dylan Thomas and wandering
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Clockwise from top left: Tenby Harbour; lodge with a view, Dylan Coastal Resort; sunset on the terrace, Dylan Coastal Resort; Freshwater West Beach, southwest Wales
which truly sets Dylan Coastal Resort apart. Every member of the team goes above and beyond to make guests feel welcome and cared for, but a special mention goes to Chia, the incredible concierge, who ensures no detail is overlooked. Our host, Alison, also
towns and beaches in southwest Wales offer a mix of seaside traditions,
beauty and history. Fortunately, the resort has a partnership with MINI, so we were able to take the MINI Countryman Electric for a spin round the local area: it’s the perfect car for nipping about coastal roads. Of the local towns, Tenby is probably the most instantly recognisable, thanks to the photogenic collection of colourful Georgian houses which line its harbour. After you’ve taken the obligatory pic and played on the pretty beach, stroll inland from the sea to the town itself and you’ll find streets filled with independent shops, cafés and friendly, local restaurants. Golfers should note, Tenby Golf Club is one of the oldest courses in Wales, and it goes without saying that the views are stunning. Perhaps it was because we were distracted by them that the course managed to swallow nearly all our golf balls. Saundersfoot isn’t as famous as Tenby, but we liked the hipster vibe and it’s definitely a part of Wales that’s having a moment. Kids will love watching the boats come and go in the bustling harbour, and several excellent seafood restaurants serve catch of the day, fresh, every day. If you’re looking for a bit more adventure, the rugged beauty of Freshwater West alone is worth a trip to Wales. It’s also a must-visit surf spot, and when we visited a hardy bunch of experienced surfers in wet suits were out braving the waves, although we also noticed quite a few local surf schools offering lessons for beginners. You may not want to hit the water, but Freshwater West’s dramatic sand dunes and endless horizon make it equally rewarding for family walks, even in chillier weather. I can’t close without mentioning the exceptional service
deserves all our praise for making us feel instantly at home, and last, but not least, a big thank you to restaurant staff, Katherine, Shannon and Patrick, for the impeccable service
at Milk Wood Bar & Restaurant. Dylan Coastal Resort strikes the perfect balance between luxury and comfort, offering high-end facilities, breathtaking views, and exceptional service all without any pretensions. Whether you are there for a relaxing spa retreat, an indulgent getaway, or a family adventure along the Welsh coast, it’s a wonderfully memorable experience and a place you’ll return to, time and time again. I for one haven’t even scratched the surface of my newfound passion for southwest Wales, and not just because it reminds me of home.
the lowdown
HOW TO GET THERE London to Laugharne by road from 4 hours, 30 minutes WHERE TO STAY Dylan Coastal Resort, 3-nights, 2 bedroom Milk Wood Lodge (2 adults, 2 children) from £479 luxurylodges.com
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