LES ARCS
Clockwise from left: Aquille Rouge 13; hiking Les Arcs; Arc 1800
skimming polished stones while we picnicked. It might be easy to dismiss, but sometimes the best things in life are free. Better yet, Arc 2000 was near deserted when we arrived and boozy drinks were on the menu while the kids used their Hero Passes on yet another inflatables course — this one was blown up conveniently next to a bar. One thing I’ll never regret is sitting in the hot sun, with a mountain view and a cold beer. OK then, I’ll admit we had more than one. One of the reasons for Les Arcs’ development in the first place is its proximity to Bourg Saint Maurice, a centuries-old crossroads of Tarentaise trade. Every Wednesday in summer from 4-8pm, this spirit continues with a lively local market and, looking back, I can fondly fantasise about the cheese, wine and charcuterie we sampled. The market on Rue Desserteaux has grown in popularity in recent years, with live bands and entertainers, and the journey takes you through France and across the centuries. From the architectural modernism of Arc 1600’s cantilevered apartment blocks to Bourg’s less obtrusive, traditional chalets in minutes — and all by virtue of a swishy-designed funicular. Frankly, it’s worth the 7-minute trip for the futuristic, sci-fi ride alone. The days were packed. So, by our last morning, we’d fine-tuned our approach and already knew what to tackle and what made everyone tick. First, the rousing high ropes course (for le petit monsieur), then the bungee trampoline (for la petite mademoiselle), the pool sunbathing terrace (for la femme) and, lastly, a rouge sundowner on the balcony (pour moi). Then we retreated to bed. The lesson here, you understand, is stop while you’re ahead. Les Arcs has built its reputation on being a modernist, egalitarian ski resort, that’s true. But it’s also got something to say about how to holiday on healthy terms in summer, and its transformation to vast outdoor theme park now creates one of the Alps’ most compelling reasons to travel. In exchange for your time off, it gives you a family break, but one at full speed. Sounds a fair swap to me.
the lowdown
HOW TO GET THERE Direct UK flights to Chambery from 1 hour, 47 minutes Chambery to Les Arcs from 1 hour, 30 minutes WHERE TO STAY Le Roseland, 2 Bedroom Apartment (2 adults, 2 children) 7-nights from £701 pierreetvacances.com GOOD TO KNOW For information on Les Arcs lesarcs.com Les Arcs Hero Pass lesarcs.com/hero-pass
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