Naples the family traveller school trip A n unforgettable, head-over-heels immersion in all things Italian, nothing conjures up Naples more vividly than its Quartieri Spagnoli, or Spanish Quarter; think narrow, inclined streets lined with colourful market stalls and cafés, small grocery shops, Naples is a city like no other, with atmosphere in spades, Pompeii on its doorstep and, arguably, Italy’s best pizza. Rudolf Abraham and his teenage daughter spent a weekend exploring
windows with laundry hanging above them, and a never-ending succession of mopeds flying past. This is also where you’ll find the city’s best street art, including the famous Maradona mural on Via Emanuele de Dio. And while you’re here, don’t miss La Dolcezza Degli Dei, a fabulous little chocolate shop just off Piazza Caritá. Although the must-eat in Naples is, of course, genuine Neapolitan pizza, and Pizzeria Mazzotti on Piazza Caritá is one of the very best. ‘Naples is pizza, pizza is Naples,’ so said its owner, Paolo Surace, when I interviewed him a few years ago. The true Neapolitan crust is a revelation – poke it with your finger and it will spring back up. If it doesn’t, another of the most respected pizza- makers in Naples once told me, only half jokingly, you should probably just leave. Conversely, the base should be almost wafer thin, and smothered with delicious sauce and fresh toppings which scream Mediterranean sunshine: we can highly recommend courgette flowers. Then, because there is simply no such thing as too much pizza in Naples, we suggest you try the simply named Al22 Pizzeria. Their eggplant parmigiana is also impressive and frankly should win awards - even my non-aubergine-eating 14 year old put aside her prejudices and stole half of mine. Something to note when you’re seeking out pizzeria: look for accreditation by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, it’s the official mark of authenticity. But Naples isn’t just pizza, so make sure you try some sfogliatelle, the city’s irresistible signature pastry. Think a mouthwateringly good custard crème filling, wrapped in the crispiest, flakiest
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