LISBON
Clockwise from left: Tram 28;Torre De Belém; Pinheiro ceramic; Elevador de Santa Justa; Castel São Jorge and Alfama
ALL ABOUT ALFAMA Lisbon may be built on hills but don’t let that put you off walking, especially in Alfama. One of the few areas of the city to survive the devastating 18th century earthquake, this medieval quarter is one of most haunting in Europe. Skinny streets squeeze between even skinnier houses and that sound you hear is the melancholy strains of Fado leaking out of local bars. The colour palette is a luscious mix of whitewash traced with vivid blue, yellow and scarlet. And if you aren’t stopping to stare every 10 seconds you’re doing it wrong. RIDE ELEVADOR DE SANTA JUSTA Lisbon loves unusual transport, you can even catch the Telecabine Lisboa cable car and soar along the River Tagus to Oceanario de Lisboa aquarium in Parque das Nacoes. The rickety trams have already been covered and, if you’ve time, there are boats and TukTuks too. But the one you don’t want to miss is mighty Elevador de Santa Justa which connects Baixa and Bairro Alto. Over 100 years old and designed by a pupil of Eiffel, it’s one of the city’s most dramatic sights, and that’s going some. Come in summer and the queues are long, so go early in the day. Alternatively climb up to Bairro Alto on foot and ride the Elevador back down: same thrill, less wait. TOUR TORRE DE BELÉM Part watchtower and even bigger part, ‘Portugal owns the sea’ power play, iconic Torre De Belém has stood sentinel on the River Tagus since 1514. Undeniably weather worn and quite eerie inside, it’s still remarkable and the ghost stories alone should convince you to take the audio tour. torrebelem.com
BE POLITE TO PEACOCKS If you want to see Portuguese ceramics beyond wall tiles, visit the Jardim Bordallo Pinheiro. This dream-like little garden is packed with weird and wonderful creations by Rafael Bordallo Pinheiro. Even if you aren’t familiar with his kitsch cabbage leaf plates, kids will love the collection of fantastical ceramic creatures. Just remember to be polite to the real life peacocks who rule the roost here. GO SEE A SUNSET The sensational views that make Lisbon’s many rooftop bars the envy of the world, might be something you want to reserve for a child-free break, but the miradouros all over the city aren’t a second best, and they’re where the locals hang out. Miradouro das Portas do Sol is good for sunsets and an almost party vibe on summer evenings. Or if you want to linger a little during the day, pack a picnic and head to quieter Miradouro da Graça between Alfama and Graça.
the lowdown
HOW TO GET THERE Direct UK flights to Lisbon from 2 hours, 35 minutes WHERE TO STAY Chiado Arty Flats, 1-Bedroom Apartment (2 adults, 2 children) from £386 per night chiado-arty-flats.hinn.pt
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