The Whisky Explorer Magazine | Issue 4 - Fall 2024

Bucking Pumpkin Spice

The Legendary Mark Gillespie

Redbreast 18 Pilgrimage to Ireland

Fruit bats, Pepto-Bismol and Vanuatu Oh My!

ISSUE FOUR | FALL 2024

Contents ISSUE 4 | FALL 2024

Icons of Canadian Whisky 18

Irish Whiskey Pioneer Reveals Red Breast 18 24 Ask Bry – Peat? 27

Cheers to the Pioneers and the Year Ahead 04

From Hoarder to Pioneer: The Story of Mr. George

What’s Happening Across Canada 06 Meet the Contributors 10 Bucking Pumpkin Spice 16

South Africa - The Next New World Frontier

29 32 36

Distilling in the Wild Wild West

The Riff-Raff Thanksgiving Dinner

44 The Last Sip 47

Tale of a Gustatory Challenge – Kava anyone?

The Great One, and we don’t mean Gretzky

Is Boom becoming Bust?

Dave Mitton, Canadian Icon

The New Guard 22

South Africa - The Next New World Frontier

Distilling in the Wild Wild West

Is Boom becoming Bust

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Cheers to the Pioneers and the Year Ahead BY MIKE BRISEBOIS

As we close out another year, this edition of The Whisky Explorer Magazine celebrates pioneers—those who push boundaries, break new ground, and shape the future of whisky. You might think you’re a long way from being in this illustrious category of whisky legends, but trust me: no matter where you are on your whisky journey, you’re contributing to the growing passion and excitement for this incredible spirit we all love. Whether you’re introducing friends to their first dram, exploring new flavor profiles, or collecting rare bottles, you’re part of this vibrant community. 2024 has been an interesting and challenging year. Through it all, I’m immensely grateful to each and every one of you who take the time to read this magazine. Your enthusiasm and support fuel everything we do. I also want to extend a heartfelt thank you to our incredible team of writers. Their dedication and talent shine through in every article, delivering superb stories, insights, and perspectives for your enjoyment. As we raise a glass to the end of the year, let’s look forward to more adventures, discoveries, and unforgettable moments in the world of whisky. From all of us at The Whisky Explorer Magazine, we wish you a joyous holiday season and a fantastic New Year. May your days be filled with warmth, good company, and of course, exceptional whisky.

Whether you’re introducing friends to their first

Sláinte!

dram, exploring new flavor profiles, or collecting

rare bottles, you’re part of this vibrant community.

Mike Brisebois, Founder The Whisky Explorer Magazine Mike Brisebois

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What’s Happening Across Canada: Whisky Event Itinerary

Canada has coast to coast whisky events happening again and the only way to influence change or demonstrate that we should get more allocations is to prove how serious we are about whisky so show your support: attend local whisky events, get out to the pubs and of course shop at the establishments.

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January 2025

January 15th

MS Edmonton Whisky Festival Edmonton, AB www.mscanada.ca

January 16th

MS Calgary Whisky Festival

Calgary, AB

www.whiskycalgary.ca

January 16th-19th Victoria Whisky Festival

Victoria, BC

www.victoriawhiskyfestival.com

January 24th-25th Whisky Global Festival

Vancouver, BC www.thewhiskyglobal.com

February 2025

20th-22nd February

February 1st

Whisky Global Festival

Kelowna, BC

www.thewhiskyglobal.com

February 14th-15th Maritime Spirits Festival

Moncton, NB

maritimespiritsfestival.com

reallygreatsite.com

February 20th-22nd Whisky Wonderland Festival

Ottawa, ON www.whiskywonderland.ca

February 24th-25th Canada Whisky Symposium

Calgary, AB

whiskysymposium.ca

If you’d like to send us any whisky related event dates you feel should be included, please email editor@whiskyexplorer.ca with the details and we will ensure it’s listed in the proper edition.

Join us for the whisky event of the year, Whisky Wonderland, which is set to thrill 500 whisky enthusiasts from across Canada with an array of vendors, speakers, classes, and activities, all set against a backdrop of live music and excitement.

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www.whiskywonderland.ca

Ottawa, Ontario

Contributors Our contributors come from all walks of life as well as levels of experience. From coast to coast and sometimes beyond, they will bring you stories, experiences or simply the joy of reading about all things whisky (and sometimes maybe more...)

Aaron Krouse @aaronmkrouse | www.boozedancing.com First time caller, long time listener, Aaron is a contributing editor of the Boozedancing Entertainment Network and co-host of their “What We Watch When We Drink” podcast. When he’s not fishing and hunting in the offseason, he likes to spin yarns and his records (Vinyl is his Spirit Ethenyl), make homemade chai (#chaihound), barbecue duck during wabbit season, confuse Hulu and Prime, zig when he really should zag, happily debate the Mount Rushmore of most anything including grunge bands and 1970’s right fielders and in his spare time - host whisky tastings for fun and fundraisers to educate and just plain old electrify billions of Southern Californians about the wonders and beauty of this beautiful liquid we call whisky.

Bry Simpson @whiskybry

Bry agrees he’s a lot! Not only is he a full time brand ambassador and education manager for a well known whisky brand, but also a photographer and a top notch Fortnite player. Bry is most commonly recognized as one of North America’s top passionate and knowledgeable whisky professionals who strives to grow the whisky community by encouraging new people to our dramming world.

Alex Hendry @drinksdistilled

Davin deKergommeaux @davindek | www.canadianwhisky.org Books: The definitive guide to Canadian distilleries, Canadian whisky – The new portable expert Davin’s dedication to all things Canadian whisky is but one aspect of his worldwide recognition. His explorations have taken him to four continents where he visits local distilleries, shares and pours Canadian whisky. He’s a renowned spirits judge, public speaker and freelance writer with three award-winning whisky books to his credit. In 2016, the Globe and Mail named him one of the 50 most influential Canadians in food and drink and soon thereafter the New York Times stated that his significance in the revival of Canadian whisky could not be overstated. Davin is Canada’s whisky expert.

Alex comes to us as a “Come from away” living on beautiful Prince Edward Island. Over the last 20 years, he’s been a barback, doorman, bartender, menu consultant as well as a passionate spirits consumer. His love for sharing whisky and cocktail knowledge fits in perfectly with the vibe of his chosen island. No matter if it’s drinking a peaty scotch at an Islay distillery, relaxing in a NYC hotel cocktail bar or a shot and beer at a dive in rural Ontario he’s happiest surrounded by good conversation and enthusiasm. Fun fact: Alex once crashed a scooter in Fort Lauderdale Florida, bandaged himself up at a veterinarian clinic and headed straight to the legendary Elbo Room.

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Evan Eckersley @sagelikefool

Johanne McInnis @whiskylassie | Books: Malt Whisky Yearbook 2023 & 2024, Contributor By day a civil servant, mom, sailor and fantastic cook but with one quick trip to her walk in closet she turns into the Whiskylassie. She has worn out many business cards: Tasting society president, story teller, master class presenter, judge, published write and now she proudly adds Contributing Editor. She is a passionate whisky enthusiast, teacher, mentor and friend. Fun fact: Johanne sometimes experiences synaesthesia when nosing/tasting spirits.

Evan has spent most of his adulthood either thinking, reading about or admiring whisky bottles. He even tastes the golden liquid from time to time. After finally coming to the realization that his spouse was tired of hearing him talk about whisky most of the time, he really had no choice but to go work in a shop that sells the stuff (and other adult potables occasionally). Believe it or not, he does have hobbies outside of whisky like using big words that he doesn’t actually grasp the meaning of (or pronounce to our editor’s dismay) and speaking about himself in the third person.

Josh Ward @knowyourwhisky | @WhiskyHeathens

Gavin D Smith Books: The A9 handbook and Whisky Opus (with Jonny McCormick) Gavin lives in the Scottish Borders and has been writing professionally since the mid-1980s. He is also a Master of the Quaich – the highest honour bestowed by the Scotch whisky industry and is highly recognised as one of the world’s leading whisky writers. He acts as Contributing Editor Scotland for Whisky Magazine, produces feature material for a wide range of international publications and regularly undertakes writing commissions for leading drinks companies. Author and co-author of more than 30 books, relating to whisky, beer, Scottish history, and literature, including Worts Worms and Washbacks, An A-Z of Whisky, Whisky Wit & Wisdom, The Whisky Men, Discovering Scotland’s Distilleries, Goodness Nose - written with Master Blender Richard Paterson, and two editions of The Micro-distillers’ Handbook.

Josh is our resident whisky troubadour who loves to scamper his way through a world that’s full of tasty pleasures. Surrounded by tobacco smoke and peated scotch he’s a tall bottle of Ledaig or perhaps a Famous Grouse. Sitting in the pews while he stands at the pulpit are many a malt fanatic or bourbon drinker alike who all gather in fellowship. Don’t mistake his sermons for the rambling of a madman (although his look sort of fits the part) because this whisky heathen has a devotion worth noting through the golden stories he shares.

Heather Storgaard @storgaard.heather

Mike Brisebois @thewhiskyexplorer | thewhiskyexplorer.ca Mike is Canada’s go-to whisky expert, offering knowledge, education, recommendations and hosting tasting events for whisky enthusiasts nationwide. With six years of experience in the whisky industry as a brand ambassador and as a judge for the Canadian Whisky Awards, Mike bridges the gap between brands and consumers, both virtually and in person. Serving as a bilingual consultant for emerging brands and whisky festivals, he strives to elevate products in the Canadian market. His ultimate mission to craft unforgettable experiences, showcasing the brand narrative, the whisky itself and the people behind the distillery making each brand truly exceptional.

Heather Storgaard is a writer and whisky specialist originally from Speyside. She has explored Scotch whisky through studies in Culture and Heritage and recently received the Inspirational Young Person Award from Scotland Food & Drink. Having spent years based in Scandinavia, Switzerland and Germany, she also has a soft spot for up-and-coming whisky regions around the world.

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Sean Kincaid @darkcloudwhisky | www.darkcloudwhisky.com He is DarkCloud = Whisky consumer, podcast host, writer, smile maker and thought provoker. But it doesn’t end there. Sean, as his spouse calls him, makes no bones as to how opinionated he is while still listening and examining all sides because it enhances constant exploration. He welcomed the whisky world unabashedly with a vigor hardly matched and is proud to share his knowledge and journey with others. Olga Varvarova @olgatasteswhisky7 | Olga Tastes Whisky Olga emigrated from the Ukraine to Scotland - Land of the Brave. She fully admits she was completely indifferent to whisky until her visit to the Johnnie Walker Experience in Edinburgh which ignited her obsessive fascination with the spirit. Now, she’s quickly ticking off her list of Scottish distilleries. She has also earned a diploma from the Edinburgh Whisky Academy, writes the Olga Tastes Whisky blog and contributed for Scottish Field and Scotch Malt Whisky Society websites. Olga recently graduated from the Our Whisky Mentorship Program and hopes to distill her passion as a distinguished whisky writer.

Terri Lam @unbottlingwithterri

Terri comes to us from Vancouver and is a freelance distiller who spends her time traveling the globe, absorbing a wide spectrum of production methods that continually enhance her craft and techniques. Her ability to delve deep into the symbiotic relationship between wine casks and whisky has led to her a relentless passion for exploring the Pacific Northwest terrain, cask influences during wood maturation and the establishment of her whisky company, T Lam & Sons, dedicated to the art of flavor creation.

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Bucking Pumpkin Spice

BY ALEX HENDRY

As fall continues to swirl later into the year, Alex has a bone to pick about the trendy and sometimes, as touchy as cilantro subject, pumpkin spice madness that seems to take hold until the first snow falls...

We look ahead to every “top ten BOLD whiskies to drink this autumn” lists and quickly leave behind the great “check out these summer whisky cocktails to drink at the beach” articles. And don’t look now, but right around the corner is WINTER... Remember that comes with power outages, ice scraping, snow shovelling, and seasonal affective disorder. I’m not saying that certain flavours shouldn’t be associated with times of the year or how we are feeling, hell I wouldn’t have my brilliant personality if that was the case. I’m just bringing to (our very short days of) light - Mix it up a little bit gang. Who’s with me: I vote we cling to summer for as long as possible! Keep drinking whatever you like and don’t let temperature dictate the booze in your glass. The lighter stuff, the Kentucky Bucks, the Toki Sodas and the whisky sours (without the mulled red wine float) can keep us feeling as warm and toasty as that Hot Toddy or Pumpkin Spice Old Fashioned (gagging profusely as I type) that suddenly appears on every cocktail list in the country the morning after labour day. Drink things that remind us of summer, like when you have a cold Corona and it transports you to a beach somewhere, or a mint Julep that carries you away to a night at the cottage where I, errr, you had a big plate of BBQ ribs next to the campfire. And... By the way, cinnamon and nutmeg are in a lot of summer drinks too, folks. Maybe if we do it this way, we can better appreciate the good stuff of winter instead of getting sick of it by November 22nd. Cling to the campfires, avoid the fireplaces. Cling to the patio drinks, avoid the dens. And yes, I know we love a cozy drink too but slow down, there’s plenty of time to sit in a wingback chair and melt come January but autumn has a finite time to cheer and hit a concert, walk to your favourite restaurant, hang with your friends under a big tree in the park.

Maybe if we practice the transportation method I’m suggesting here, putting on a floral shirt and drinking a Glenmorangie will save us some money in February when we get the “if I don’t get the hell out of this arctic shithole I’m going to bucking lose it” feeling. And, maybe you disagree, that’s ok too so do whatever you want. Put on the flannel, the semi puffy vests, and the toques. Go apple picking. Carve pumpkins. Drink all the bucking pumpkin spice old fashioneds that you make yourself believe are really good. Me and my gang, well we will spend these short fall days - Sipping cheap whiskies and coke, bourbon and sweet tea or maybe even a Powers Three Swallows Irish Whiskey. Oh and just so you know we also dummy a sherry bomb or peaty blast of a dram in the summer too, if we feel like it. I’ll be here, drinking whatever I want, when I want, for any reason including clinging on to my favourite summer cocktails or teleportation to a warmer place avoiding anything bucking pumpkin spice. It’s the worst, in case I didn’t stress that enough.

Say it with me: Flannel. Apple picking. Cozy hats. Anything that comes with gravy. Some trends I can truly get behind. Then... there’s bucking pumpkin spice. God damn TERRIBLE. Do the people who get excited about it, slamming down everything bucking pumpkin spice for 6 weeks, collectively forget it exists for another 11 months? I mean come on, it’s just not good. Also, why, why are you wishing summer away??! Where does it say we can’t we do summer things in the fall? As soon as we get a cooler night, whisky fans everywhere reach for the heavy bourbons, the viscous drams full of baking spice and dark fruits and retire to any room that looks like it might have a fireplace in it. Gone are the lighter, more floral sips and out come the hip flasks and rolled up fisherman beanies (toques, guys, toques). In my very humble opinion, it’s a grass is always greener situation. We are quick to look ahead but just as swift to dismiss where we are. We get exuberant for all things fall: the Instagram gourd and fruit picking opportunities, and the gravy – why do we forget there’s gravy in the summer too?

Sincerely, Alex, Bucking pumpkin spice hater

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Dave also gave the highest praise to Monica Berg from Tayér + Elementary in London, UK - an award-winning bartender and creator of a digital platform call ‘Back of House’. An excellent online resource for bars and restaurants where they can find anonymous feedback from their teams or employees flagging harmful behaviour, discrimination and harassment. Dave is also humble when I ask why he’s been such a successful and leading brand ambassador for so long: “I don’t think I’m really doing anything particularly different from anyone else that’s in this role. Fortunate when the opportunity came my way and that I was able to start from scratch building the part. I was just a guy who created and operated some small bars and restaurants in Toronto with a passion for cocktails and drinks. Add the gift of gab and the ability to make a Canadian Tuxedo look great and I started my journey”. He believes the timing was right since there wasn’t really any education on the Canadian whisky category at that point and there definitely wasn’t a focus on cocktails with our national spirit. He likely wouldn’t state he started somewhat of a movement, but other big brands started following suit with newly appointed brand ambassadors and getting their distillers and blenders out for talks and seminars. Dave was nominated for and was awarded the Best International Brand Ambassador Award at the 2024 Tales of the Cocktail event in New Orleans. Since 2010, this is awarded to an international ambassador whose creative use of brand communication, combined with personality, has had the most impact on the promotion of drink brands through engaging the trade and executing compelling education and seminars. Nicolas Seguin, Director of Export Sales and New Business Venture at Corby Spirit and Wines stated: “We are immensely proud of Dave for receiving this well-deserved and prestigious recognition from industry peers. This reflects his outstanding contributions of pushing the boundaries and making a significant impact with the utmost passion, creativity, and authenticity to build meaningful connections with consumers and partners.” “This reflects his outstanding contributions of pushing boundaries and making a significant impact with the utmost passion, creativity, and authenticity to build meaningful connections with consumers and partners.”

Fogo Island

In the very next breathe said the same could be said for Chicago, New York, New Orleans, or Los Angeles. But for him the magic that takes place is on our coasts. Whether it’s Victoria Island or Newfoundland and Labrador, or more remote areas such as Whitehorse or Fogo Island - as much as they are some of the most beautiful places in the world with breathtaking scenery, it’s always the people that make it so special. South of the border it’s hard to beat the scenery and vibe in Northern California, Oregon, and Washington but two places he’s come to adore over the last several years are Detroit and Atlanta. “There’s something very special happening in both cities, first and foremost, the people are so kind, warm, and welcoming, there’s a pride that comes with living there, and I love that. Their bar and restaurant scene, and community is serious about what they’re creating, I’m always looking forward to my next trip back, to see what’s new”.

Icons of Canadian Whisky

BY JOHANNE MCINNIS

2024 has been a great year for Canadian Spirits. We are winning awards on an international stage such as Red Bank at the San Francisco World Spirits and Gibson’s 18 in the annual Whisky Magazine World Whiskies Awards. It doesn’t stop there, in edition 3 Alex Hendry interviewed Keegan McGregor, Diageo’s World Class Canada Bartender, who then went on to win the World Class Global Bartender of 2024 title in Shanghai. And finally, I will add Dave Mitton, proudly representing Canada at the annual New Orleans Tales of the Cocktail Foundation who won Best International Brand Ambassador. Like every good story, it starts at the beginning. Dave left the Maritimes in his late teens. Wanderlust led him to different parts of the globe working behind bars where he eventually landed in Toronto. He and a couple

of friends opened and operated several different bars and restaurants all with a focus on cocktails and spirits. Corby Spirits and Wine came knocking and asked if he’d take a year to help develop a Canadian whisky Brand Ambassador position for their global market. Ten years later, in a hotel room in Madrid, I found Dave in Spain answering my questions. To say he fell in love with the role he helped create is a major understatement. I asked Dave to share some of his favourite places since he’s crossed and re-crossed Canada and the USA many times over the past ten years. He immediately said that was a tough question because, well after all, Canada is home. He pointed out Montreal, Toronto, Calgary, or Vancouver if you enjoy great food, restaurants or love bars and all the wonderful things that come along with them.

Sandrae Lawrence

Where Dave has been a brand ambassador for the last decade I was curious as to who he thought were inspirations or that lead by example in the industry. He started with Dave Broom, arguably one of the world’s most knowledgeable whisky writers and author of the “World Atlas of Whisky’ amongst many other publications. Followed with Becky Paskin founder of OurWhisky Foundation, her non-profit organization dedicated to supporting, recognising and empowering women in whisky around the world. He also highly recommended we check out the brilliant Sandrae Lawrence from Cocktail Lovers, an award-winning website and podcast she runs with her husband Gary Sharpen.

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Dave is truly thrilled and filled with gratitude to be recognized alongside such remarkable people in the industry from around the globe. Having been nominated in previous year he never expected to be called up on stage in 2024. He was slightly shocked, surprised by the attention it brought, and even though it’s been a few months it still hasn’t really set in yet. Something I’ve always admired about Dave Mitton is his passion for Canadian whisky education. He and his partner Gina Fossitt (Trade and Education Manager based in Chicago) head up education and advocacy on their brands globally. You can find them putting on small to medium scaled activations at cocktail conferences, hosting bartenders and whisky aficionados at their distillery, running educational websites, hosting talks and seminars, and much more. Their proudest accomplishment so far would be their Eh, B, and C’s of Canadian Whisky course which started off as a way of educating and training sales representatives, distributors, and retail employees during the pandemic. It originally was a 4 hour course, once a week for four weeks and has evolved into a thirteen-hour certification course version. They teamed up with Lush Life Productions to execute this and at the moment it’s the only Canadian Whisky certification course in the world, having certified over 500 students so far. I also took the opportunity to ask Dave Mitton a question I love asking people in the industry - what their favourite sound or smell is and as a kid who grew up in the country too, I loved his answer: “I grew up in the country and spent many years backpacking and experiencing so many different parts of this wonderful little planet of ours, my favourite sounds and smells are generally associated with nostalgia. Rustling leaves and grass blowing in a breeze, the sound of water, whether it’s the bubbling of a brook, waves breaking on a beach, or a rainstorm pelting against the roof, all are very soothing to me. The smell of the forest during a hike, an ocean breeze while sitting on the beach, freshly cut grass, and I’m one those people who absolutely love petrichor, the smell after a good rain is so calming for me.” We switched gears and I asked what challenges he faces in today’s game of being a brand ambassador. His passion shines bright still as he shares that it’s an exhilarating but exhausting role with little downtime. Most days start before the sun rises to catch the next flight, importers and distributors that need you to educate/engage bartenders or consumers, pivoting to working with marketing, brand and the sales teams – all within the 9am to 5pm window. Once the sun sets, the second part of the workday begins,

working cocktail and whisky events in the evening, bar pop ups and takeovers, or just simply visiting some of your favourite faces working behind bars until late into the night. Being your best, constantly on even when you are having an off day. Hence why it’s so crucial in this role to absolutely love what brand ambassadors do because it becomes a big part of who they are and how people perceive them. I also asked if he considered what his legacy might be. Again, a humble but thoughtful answer came. Dave feels like there are so many great ambassadors and spirits educators out there right now and he would likely learn something different from each and every one of them. In 2014, the brand ambassador role had been established in the spirits world for some time. Vodka, gin, agave, Scotch, Irish whiskey, and American whiskey all had educational programs but Canadian whisky didn’t. He thought it was unusual that the category didn’t have any real cocktail guides or strategies. He would like to think that he would be remembered mainly as good person who was always willing to help others in need and that I was pretty entertaining. That and the fact that he and his partner laid the foundation for education on the Canadian whisky category and brought our national spirit to the pages of cocktail menus at some of the best bars around the world. Dave’s parting words in our interview led him to share that it’s not just one brand or company that is going to change the world’s perspective on Canadian whisky. It’s going to take all of us together, raising the bar, pushing boundaries, and breaking down barriers, so every enthusiast, novice, and connoisseur can be part of this incredible community and journey that we are on. For the past 10 years he’s been shaping the future of Canadian whisky and will likely still do so for another decade. Sharing his passion, dedication and helping to continue to shape a better tomorrow reinforced by knowledge, compassion and innovation. This is why Dave Mitton is recognized as an Icon of Canadian whisky.

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The New Guard BY SEAN KINCAID

Over the past 4 editions of the Whisky Explorer, Sean has written about its history, the makers, process and distinctive flavour profiles. He finishes this great series with a look at the future of Irish Whiskey.

An amazing thing is happening in the whiskey world due in part to the reinvigoration of the Irish industry and that is the whiskeys are receiving world class recognition. The new guard is picking up awards and recognition where very few have in the not so distant past. • Killowen Distillery - named in the top 50 most Admired Whisky brands in the world released by Drinks International. Not only is it one of the smallest Irish distilleries but far the smallest in that top 50 and one of only 2 Irish brands to make the list. • Dunville’s picked up 2024 Best Irish Single Malt award and is perennially recognized for their top quality releases. • Connacht Distillery took home a handful of awards in 2023 with Top Poitin, Top Cask Strength whiskey and the top spot overall Irish whiskey of the year. • Clonakilty Distillery also picked up a trifecta in 2023 winning Best New Make, Best single malt 12 years and under and Best Single Cask Single Malt 21 years and older. And if that list is not impressive enough, in the most recent Irish Whiskey Awards, the New Guard picked up almost the entirety of the awards presented which shows just how great the whiskey is that is being made in Ireland right now. I hope you have enjoyed this deep dive into the Irish Whiskey Industry. From the storied past, to the near complete extinction and now through the revival, Irish Whiskey is rightfully on its way back to the top of the World Whiskey stage.

In this final installment of the Deep Dive into Irish Whiskey we are looking at the present state of the Irish Whiskey industry, while tipping our caps to the past and also a hopeful twinkle in the eye towards the future. There is no doubt that Irish Whiskey is well into its Renaissance era with a renewed sense of place and purpose, seeing the number of active Whiskey distilleries jump from 5 a decade ago to 50 now (as of September 2024). This Whiskey Renaissance truly began in the late 80’s when John Teeling started up the Cooley distillery in County Louth which at the time became only the third active distillery and only independent distillery in all of Ireland. A fourth distillery was opened in the southern part of Ireland when West Cork Distillers began in 2003 but it wasn’t until the early 2010’s that the rejuvenation truly began to launch. Specifically - 2012 saw the first craft distillery open when Dingle Distillery was founded. Many point to this as being the catalyst that truly broke the levees and allowed for the massive expansion we see today. Within a couple years, Glendalough, Echlinville and Teeling Distilleries were all founded as well as Beam Suntory purchasing Cooley (as well as the re-commissioned Kilbeggan Distillery) and John Teeling using the proceeds to start up Great Northern Distillery in the town of Dundalk. One category found in Irish Whiskey that has seen a return from complete extinction is that of the Irish Whiskey Bonder. Historically Bonders were found in each town, usually the merchants, publicans or hoteliers, that would use their own casks, have them filled from any distillery that could, and then mature and blend them for their own unique brands.

This practice completely disappeared when the industry collapsed early in the 20th century, but it has been reborn and with great success. I can not possibly name all the brands that are bringing back the Bonding practices but some of the more widely available brands are JJ Corry, Hyde, Two Stacks and W.D. O’Connell. These and others are releasing all styles of Irish Whiskey with blending, re-barrelling, and flavourful whiskey all at the forefront of their purpose.

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Irish Whiskey Pioneer Reveals Red Breast 18 BY OLGA VARVAROVA

As day two dawned bright and crisp we headed to Hederman’s Smoke House where we witnessed the time-honoured craft of coopering, a skill passed down through generations. Ger Buckley, a fifth-generation Master cooper, demonstrated the meticulous process of crafting the oak casks that cradle the spirit. Following this immersive experience, we continued to be treated to a sensory joy of smoked Irish fish, a testament to the region’s rich culinary and long standing heritage.

Olga was invited to the beautiful island of Ireland to experience first hand the inaugural release of the Redbreast 18. What followed was a grand adventure and a weekend of a lifetime for our resident writer who had never tasted a Redbreast before.

In November 2023, McCabe assumed the role of Master Blender at Irish Distillers, one of Ireland’s most iconic whiskey producers and succeeded Leighton, who transitioned to Master Blender Emeritus after nearly a decade in the position. Having been under the tutelage of Leighton’s guidance since 2016, McCabe is well-prepared to carry on the Irish Distillers’ legacy of making quality whiskies. As the Midleton Distillery tour came to a close, my anticipation reached its peak. We gathered in the warehouse filled with the heady aroma of maturing spirit, the moment we’d all been waiting for finally arrived.

I had always been told that Ireland was the land of ancient lore and emerald hills so when I received the invitation to embark on a two-day journey to immerse myself in the heart of Irish whiskey, a spirit as deeply storied as the hallowed ground itself, I couldn’t help but yearn for what possibly lay ahead. My whisky pilgrimage adventure began at the Castlemartyr Hotel, a stately manor nestled amidst the captivating rolling countryside. Situated on 220 acres of land this hotel hosts an impressive 18th-century manor house and the ruins of an 800-year-old castle. The rich history of my surroundings profoundly added a touch of magic to my stay. That evening, we were whisked away to Ballymaloe House Hotel, a culinary institution renowned for its farm-to-table ethos. It proudly stood up to its exquisite reputation as the home of modern Irish cuisine. Each dish was thought-through and executed with the precision and delicate beauty of a Japanese samurai. At the end of the impressive feast, we sampled Redbreast’s 12-year-old expression. My palate immediately detected the delicacy of vanilla dancing in unison with tart red berries, and a lovely finish with spicy accords. Being my first foray into the Redbreast family - it was such a delightful introduction and it certainly did not disappoint. My favourite way of savouring the whiskey was as we paired it with a chocolate truffle: I let it slowly melt in my mouth and followed with a generous sip of the golden liquid - if this is how one could describe tasting something heavenly, which would be it.

The day culminated at one of the most historic sites that is steeped in whiskey-making traditions - Midleton Distillery. The tour revealed the intricate process behind the creation of Redbreast and boasted the “7th Wonder of the Whisky World” - the largest pot still in the world. Constructed in 1895, it is no longer in use but still impressive to look at. The history of whiskey production at Midleton dates back to the early 19th century, making it one of Ireland’s oldest distilleries. It is the birthplace of iconic Irish whiskey brands like Jameson, Powers, Green Spot and, of course, Redbreast. The distillery has also been home to legendary Master Blenders who have shaped Irish whiskey for generations, including the talented Billy Leighton, Master Blender Emeritus, and his successor, Master Blender David McCabe, who are the masterminds behind Redbreast’s distinct flavours.

Amongst the barrels of liquid gold, Billy Leighton and David McCabe introduced us to the new edition to the family’s core expressions - the Redbreast 18-year-old. The first sip revealed the flavours of dark chocolate, red berries and sweet sultanas. The second opened its doors to spicy ginger, and the third added rich notes of black tea. I was taken aback by how smooth and satisfying the velvety liquid was. Such elegance with a lingering finish of spice and dried fruit. What also makes this whiskey special is not only its vibrant flavourful palette but how it is produced and meticulous aged. Using the unique and traditional Irish whiskey-making method means involving a single pot still, utilising a combination of malted and unmalted barley resulting in its distinctive flavour profile.

the whisky explorer magazine

FALL 2024

Ask Bry BY BRY SIMPSON

Edition 4 of ASK BRY brings a very good question about peat from Emily Haynes in Squamish BC:

Hello Mr. Simpson, Forgive my ignorance as I am a novice whiskey drinker. I attended a whisky festival in January of this year and was introduced to Scotch for the first time. I normally enjoy bourbons. My friend Samantha warned me that we would be tasting a peated whisky and that I probably would not like it. In actuality, I absolutely and divinely loved it. It was something called the Wee Beastie. While I was on vacation in Calgary in July, I was also brave enough to go into a bar and ask for more peated whiskies to try. I was quite perplexed as to the different types of peated whiskies. They were all very different. I looked online for some information on peat and the whisky process, there was way too much and quite a few different opinions it seems. They say never read the internet. My question is about the process of peating the whisky - How can peat give the Islay whiskies such a difference in personalities and why did the Wee Beastie taste the strongest like a camp bonfire? - Emily H.

PPM can range from 0 (unpeated) to over 300 (Bruichladdich’s mega fun and intense Octomore range). Although not all peated whisky comes from Islay, as a starting point it’s not a bad idea to compare some of the famous smoky whiskies.

• Bowmore is around 25ppm • Lagavulin and Caol Ila get the same barley at 35ppm • Laphroaig is (usually) around 45ppm and, • Ardbeg is typically around 55-60ppm

Once we’ve got it in our heads what to expect in terms of strength of phenolic flavours from a distillery, you can then look at each expression from that distillery. In theory the longer the whisky is matured in a cask, the less phenolic flavours will be present. This is because the phenolic flavours are some of the first to disappear during maturation. In regards to Ardbeg Wee Beastie, being only 5 years old and barley spec of 55ppm you can expect this to be punchier with smoky flavours than Bowmore 12 years old with its barley spec of 25ppm. But that’s just about how much smoke to expect, what about what TYPE of smoky flavours? This is where is gets super exciting, if not a little harder to determine: If we describe smoky flavours in different flavour camps (shout-out to Reece Sims), we can look at notes which are either; medicinal, woody, savoury, herbaceous, or maybe coal smoke. It’s not 100% accurate but some would say that you get more medicinal smoke from Laphroaig, more herbal/floral smoke from Caol Ila, and more woody/campfire smoke from Lagavulin. This is pretty subjective though so it’s a good idea however to take notes on the types of smoky flavour you pick up from each distillery, and use that as your personal guide. And one more thing, there’s also claims that where the peat is sourced can determine what type of smoky flavour you should expect in the whisky, I don’t agree with this but maybe that’s a discussion for another time, for now happy drammin’!

It is then matured in a combination of ex-bourbon barrels and sherry casks with a particular influence of Oloroso and Ruby Port, which adds rich, fruity notes and spicy character. This expression is further elevated by employing a new and exciting element - the addition of cream sherry casks (a combination of dry and sweet Sherries) that adds a level of complexity and special touch to an already high-quality spirit. Since the Redbreast 18 deserved a spectacular send off, we were then invited to finish our evening in a very special way. In nothing less than a set right out of Bridgerton, our last supper together was the perfection of comradery, a divine meal and the harmonies of an accompanying string quartet. It truly was the magical part of Ireland that I had heard of for many years. This trip not only opened our minds and hearts to Irish whiskey, but for me truly managed to reinforce the sense of tradition, quality and care that is passed on from generation to generation.

Much late on that night as twilight descended we found ourselves in the hotel lobby. Souls warmed by the sweet amber liquid and wrapped up in tight embraces; we were buzzing from the unforgettable evening, wishing it to never end. From that moment on the whiskey that created this amazing experience that will forever bind us as part of what I hope Redbreast 18 will become – a long standing Irish Whiskey tradition from the land of ancient lore and emerald hills. *Redbreast 18 is available in British Columbia Canada, across the USA as well as the UK, Australia and additional countries in Europe and Asia.

Dear Emily = That Wee Beastie really is a monster of a dram eh? Peated whisky is just fantastic, and there’s so many different styles within the category to choose from. A good, but not perfect indicator of how ‘smoky’ the whisky can be, is to find out the phenolic parts per million (PPM) of the barley used by the distillery. Each distillery will request barley of a certain peated specification to which then they will create their whisky from. It is important to note that the PPM disclosed is usually only what the spec of the barley is, not the overall PPM of the whisky in the bottle. This is because the PPM will drop at each part of the whisky making process. Rarely do you see distilleries disclose what the PPM is in the bottle.

the whisky explorer magazine

FALL 2024

From the end of Prohibition in Alberta in 1924 until 2013, there was no legal way to do small scale distillation. The provincial laws regarding spirit production included a minimum annual alcohol volume level so exorbitant it would be impossible for a craft distillery to hit. Go big or don’t start at all! Same story for beer pretty much. Surprising, isn’t it? Alberta is full of farmland growing some of the best grain in the world and even though the province has a long history of government championing business, it took almost 90 years to creak open the gate that made it possible for the likes of Eau Claire to open a distillery. There are way more distilleries that don’t have plans to produce whisky than those that do, and there is plenty going on in the spirits world that doesn’t involve my drink of choice. However, for those who plan to make whisky, getting to your first bona fide whisky release is a major milestone and there are already quite a few Alberta craft distilleries that have. Distilling in the Wild Wild West BY EVAN ECKERSLEY

Evan decided to buy a beat up cowboy hat and slip on a pair of boots to traipse around the new distilleries in Alberta Canada!

Banff Park Distillery Black Diamond/Turner Valley Eau Claire Calgary

Bridgeland Distillery Burwood Distillery Wildlife Distillery Hansen Distillery Strathcona Spirits

Calgary Canmore Edmonton Edmonton

Fort Saskatchewan

Fort Distillery Broken Oak Latitude 55

Grand Prairie Grand Prairie

Leduc

Rig Hand Distillery

Red Deer Red Deer

Diony Distillery

GrainHenge Whisky

That was my first attempted at a comprehensive list so I apologize if I am missing a few. I also intentionally left out a few because I want to bring to your attention one specific company involved in making Alberta whisky = Bearhill.

the whisky explorer magazine

FALL 2024

the Wood Buffalo Brewing Company and micro distillery opened in Fort McMurray, and like Jasper, the summer of 2016 saw the rage of a wildfire that destroyed 2400 buildings. Although Wood Buffalo Brewing and its restaurant reopened after the community’s decimation, it did not survive the economic downturn that followed in the fire’s wake and closed in mid 2019. It did, however, leave behind a tiny legacy for one incredibly rare whisky release three years after its closing. Aptly named the Beast, after the wildfire that devastated the area of Fort McMurray, this whisky was not only a bottling of heavily peated Scottish malt but one that had survived and was influenced by the smoke of the 2016 wildfire. Head Distiller Bryce Parsons and Brewer Spike Baker decided to distill the malt and bottled the resulting whisky in 2022. The minute release of 50 bottles sold individually at auction with the proceeds donated to charities in the Fort McMurray area, including the Fort McMurray Fire

Fighters Charities Association. As I write this article, about a dozen bottles remain to still be auctioned. So far over $150,000 has been raised. Bearhill continues to march down the whisky trail with the Maligne range, and Distiller Bryce Parsons has another project of his own that will eventually join the march too - True Wild Distillery should be opening in November 2024. It may have taken 90 years for the craft distilleries to root themselves deeply into the fertile soil of Alberta, but just like good whisky should, in due time these wild wild spirits will come to the Canadian market and possibly knock your cowboy boots off.

Founded in 2004 by a group of Jasperites friends = Socrates Korogonas, Brett Ireland, and Alex Derkson they have spent over two decades building microbreweries in Calgary, Edmonton, Jasper, Banff, and Fort McMurray. In the spring of 2015 they also opened Last Best Brewing & Distilling in Calgary. Bearhill is also responsible for the new Maligne Range line of whisky - and the distillery with the same name that just opened in Jasper National Park. Their two whisky releases, Excelsior and Tekarra, which are specifically named after individual mountains in the range. Tekarra is a unique small- batch whisky release made from malt, wheat, and a bit of demerara sugar, bottled at 48%. Excelsior is a collaboration between Distiller Bryce Parsons and Kensington Wine Market, also bottled at 48%, and is made from peated malt/ malted wheat. Sadly - completely sold out. All their whiskies were distilled at Last Best Brewery and Distillery of Calgary. However the Maligne Range Distillery in Jasper is now open

and should be laying down casks soon. July 24th was meant to be the day the micro distillery and restaurant had their grand opening. Sadly that was the day Jasper was hit by a devastating wildfire that damaged or outright destroyed one-third of the buildings in their community. Luckily, the Maligne Range Distillery was not one of the fire’s many victims and their grand opening went forward on September 19th, 2024. Last month the label released its third whisky named after the Amber mountain range - Batch 01. The 46% ABV whisky is a blend of malted barley (distilled at Calgary’s Last Best) and unmalted Rye (undisclosed Alberta Distillery). It is a very well-balanced dram that shows an enticing combination of sweet fruit and soft spice notes, with the Rye and Malt components getting along like the best dynamic duos.

Tipping my hat to all the craft distilleries, - Evan

Unfortunately, this is not the first time Bearhill and its staff have had to deal with the threat of wildfires. In 2013,

the whisky explorer magazine

FALL 2024

Tale of a Gustatory Challenge – Kava anyone? BY DAVIN DE KERGOMMEAUX

In this edition of our magazine, Davin brings us on yet another fascinating journey into something completely different. Read on for a hilarious, make you squirm in your seat adventure!

somewhere in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean

It was somewhere in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean that I began to regret boasting about my adventurous palate. My travelling companion, Andy Walston, had triggered my spidey sense when we were checking into the Melanesian Hotel in Vanuatu’s capital, Port Vila. His fleeting grin as he suggested we skip the hotel’s tourist-friendly buffet and have dinner nearby at L’houstalet Restaurant suddenly made me nervous. With his gently malicious sense of humour, Andy had playfully been mocking my tall tales of wine with snakes in the bottle and Cambodian restaurants that served tarantula meat. Still, he had offered to help me track down a mystical local specialty: the muscle-relaxing juice of a plant called kava. And, kava it would be, but now it worried me that before setting out on that quest, he might try to up the ante and make my medallion of spider story seem tame. To my surprise, L’houstalet turned out not to be some exotic local wonder but as authentic a French restaurant as you could find in the tropical South Pacific. However, among the escalopes, filets and rognons was a dish I did not recognize – “civet de roussette.” He had been waiting for this moment. “Flying fox,” he mumbled, a little too nonchalantly. “They serve fox??” I gasped. “They’re really just bats,” he replied, not lifting

his gaze from the menu. Bats. How comforting. And just like that, Andy had trumped my fried spider with bat stew.

Images of death by rabies aside, I could not overcome my queasiness about dining on bat meat. True, in the days before smartphones and laptops, you never knew what unforeseen adventures awaited when visiting remote places such as this, but bats for dinner? Little did I know what Vanuatu would pass between my lips before this visit was through. When we met in the lobby the next morning, Andy had found someone to drive us to a remote village for a traditional kava ceremony. Young and old, squatting on their heels, waited to receive us, leaping to their feet each time a ripe coconut fell from a tree, hitting the ground with a cracking thud. Soon, their final guest, a doctor there on vacation arrived and off we set on foot into the jungle. A pack of dogs followed, breaking into ones and twos to race ahead as we approached a clearing where billowing aromas of roasting wild boar beckoned us. As guests of honour, we were seated on the smoothest lumpy rocks and logs and handed folded banana leaves filled with roast pork and a vegetable paste called laplap.

As guests of honour, we were seated on the smoothest lumpy rocks and logs and handed folded banana leaves filled with roast pork and a vegetable paste called laplap.

the whisky explorer magazine

FALL 2024

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