deBoulle Art Deco Masterpieces

Embark on a journey through the captivating worlds of Art Deco and vintage jewelry. Delight in the fusion of elegance and innovation as you explore a curated collection of exquisite pieces that reflect the opulence and glamour of their respective eras.

MASTERPIECES

Embark on a journey through the captivating worlds of Art Deco and vintage jewelry. Delight in the fusion of elegance and innovation as you explore a curated collection of exquisite pieces that reflect the opulence and glamour of their respective eras. From the geometric motifs and vibrant gemstones of Art Deco to the romanticism and intricate details of vintage designs, each jewel tells a unique story of craftsmanship and style. Whether you’re drawn to the sleek lines of Cartier or the intricate designs of Tiffany & Co., immerse yourself in the beauty of a bygone era brought to life through these timeless treasures.

1

17504

Pair of Art Deco diamond circular cluster earrings by Rubel Frères, Paris, each with a principal brilliant cut diamond offset to a pavé ground, tapered arch of baguettes below, mounted in platinum and 18K white gold, trace of a serial number, French assaymarks and Rubel workshop mark, approximately 7.10 cts.

2

17506

Pair of early 20th century aquamarine briolette and diamond pendant earrings by Marzo, Paris c.1915, each hung with a briolette aquamarine with rose cut diamonds caps, from a tapered diamond line with open circle motif, circular aquamarine tops, millegrain set and mounted in platinum and white gold, signed ‘MARZO PARIS’, French assaymarks.

3

17508

Antique five stone diamond ring, c.1900, with graduated cushion cut stones, small single cut diamond accent stones in between, scroll pierced gallery, deep fluting to the scroll shoulders, approximately 5.25 cts.

4

17511

Antique five stone ruby ring, c.1900, the graduated Burma rubies of cushion and rounded facetted cut, with single cut diamond accent stones in between, scroll pierced gallery, scroll fluted shoulders, later shank back, accompanied by GCS report no. 81312-41 giving the Burma origin opinion for the rubies and that they show no evidence of heat treatment.

5

17513

18K gold and diamond mesh strap watch by Cartier, Paris c.1960, of stylized chainmail design, the circular silvery-white dial signed ‘CARTIER’, with baton hour markers, blued steel hands, set to the bezel with round brilliant cut diamonds creating a scalloped effect, the three-row band of ribbed oval links supporting two row diamond collet lines, the gold links with bead style detail and articulated on looped-link joins, the diamonds of round brilliant cut, back-wind movement, case back with serial number 173929 and 10205, French assaymarks, with the workshop mark for Edmond Jaeger.

6

17514

Ruby and diamond graduated three row half hoop ring, caliber tapered rectangular cut rubies flanked by stepped lines of square cut diamonds, channel set in platinum.

7

17515

Diamond and emerald geometric strap bracelet by Cartier, comprising three articulated rectangular panels pavé set with old round brilliant and single cut diamonds and centered by emerald collet three-stone motifs, spaced by openwork rectangular diamond links, all with rounded corners, diamond bar joins, one forming the clasp, mounted in platinum, signed ‘CARTIER’ beneath later added ring, very rubbed serial number possibly C375, the diamonds approximately 9 cts., the emeralds approximately 1 ct.

8

17516

Early 20th century three stone emerald and diamond ring, c.1910, set with a 3.97 ct. Colombian emerald of stepped square cut, flanked by two asscher cut diamonds of approximately 2.25 ct. and 1.80 ct., the emerald with canted corners, claw set between the two similarly set diamonds, pierced foliate gallery, the straight shank line-pierced to outer edge, and pierced at sides with dot and leaf band, all in platinum, accompanied by AGL report no. 1127492 for the 3.97 ct. emerald giving a Colombian origin opinion and that the stone shows minor oil treatment.

9

17517

Pair of diamond and ruby flower cluster earrings by Cartier, Paris, with bellflower above an open four-petal flowerhead, each with a single stone ruby stamen to pavé diamond petals, the rubies of round and oval facetted cut, claw set, the diamonds of round brilliant and single cut, mounted in platinum and 18ct yellow gold, signed ‘Cartier Paris’, serial number 01432, French assaymarks for platinum and gold, Cartier crossed C’s workshop mark, the rubies total approximately 2.70 cts., the diamonds approximately 5.90 cts., accompanied by a copy of the IAJA Expertise Report no. XP1042-270123 that in their opinion this is a genuine Cartier item.

10

17518

Late 18th / early 19th century pear shaped emerald and diamond cluster ring, c.1800, the Colombian emerald of step cut and elongated outline, open set and inverted within a heart shaped border of old cut diamonds, flanked by trefoil diamond clusters, diamonds all close cut down collet set, mounted in silver and gold, the gold shank with bifurcated and entwined openwork scroll shoulders extending to half hoop, the diamonds of cushion, double-eight and old brilliant cut, accompanied by GCS report no. 5783-1112 giving the Colombian origin opinion for the emerald and that it shows minor clarity enhancement and estimated to weigh 1.80 ct.

11

17520

Early 20th century two row ruby and diamond ring, c.1915, one row of five graduating old brilliant cut diamonds, claw set, above a row of five round cut rubies, all claw set, the two rows separated by four small old cut diamonds, scroll carved head, engraved scroll decoration to gallery and bifurcated shoulders, twin wire shank, mounted in platinum.

12

17521

19th century varicolored diamond, white enamel and gold ring, c.1870, renaissance revival, with five graduated cushion cut diamonds of brown, yellow, pinkish, greenish-blue and yellowish- green, approximately 0.65 cts. in all, white enameled borders to the collet set mount, gold shank back, (the total diamond weight approximately comprises center stone of approximately 0.18 ct.; yellowish diamond approximately 0.16 ct.; greenish diamond approximately 0.15 ct.; and outer orangish and outer yellowish diamonds of 0.08 ct. each).

13

17523

Antique emerald and diamond five stone ring, c.1850, claw set with graduated square cut corner step-cut stones, carved gold sides, total emerald weight approximately 2.75 cts.

14

17524

Early 20th century diamond and ruby square cluster ring, c.1910, the oblique cluster with two principal diamonds and two rubies, having a square chequer cluster appearance with the oval facetted rubies edged by caliber cut rubies and the old brilliant cut diamonds with small diamond accent stones, diamond line border and diamond line shoulders, mounted in platinum, principal diamonds approximately 0.75cts in all, the rubies approximately 0.70 cts. in all.

15

17526

Pair of Art Deco ruby and diamond clip brooches by Raymond Yard Inc., New York, of geometric arrowhead form, of openwork design, each featuring to center a cushion cut ruby, the diamond frame featuring fan, scroll and pierced details and set with baguette, fancy, brilliant and single cut diamond embellished with rectangular cut ruby accent stones and caliber cut ruby channels, mounted in platinum and with 18K white gold fittings, the fittings signed ‘YARD’

16

17528

Pair of early 20th century emerald and diamond cluster pendant earrings, English c.1910, possibly by Garrard & Co., each hung with a canted rectangular emerald in double diamond line border, of old single cut diamonds, the outer border with a zig- zag edge, similar to the cushion shaped cluster tops with central square emerald, two articulated single stone diamond collets in between, all millegrain set excepting the shaped edges, mounted in platinum, the emeralds approximately 0.70 cts. in all.

17

17529

18K gold and diamond chain strap bracelet by Cartier, Paris, of stylized chainmail design, with three rows of oval links spaced by two lines of round brilliant cut diamond collets, the 52 diamonds ruobver set, approximately 3.12 cts. in all, upon the chain strap of ribbed oval links secured on corner-knuckle joins and with beaded details along the sides, signed ‘Cartier’, serial number possibly 013125, French assaymarks for gold and platinum, French workshop mark intials ‘SH’ flanking 1000/100.

18

17532

Art Deco carved emerald, enamel and diamond jabot pin brooch by Cartier, Paris, the Indianesque arrowhead shaped top with principal leaf-carved emerald, delineated in dark blue enamel, diamond line border with small leaf detail and black enameled ‘beads’, the opposite end with oval cabochon emerald, geometric diamond border and dark blue enamel detail giving a perspective shadow effect, unsigned, numbered 3 and 12, and trace of longer serial number indiscernible to the pin, mounted in platinum and with white gold fittings, accompanied by IAJA Expertise report no. XP1535-170124 signed by Olivier Bachet & Bernhard Berger declaring that in their opinion this is ‘a genuine Cartier item’.

19

17533

Pair of early 20th century diamond pendant earrings, c.1915, a principal old European brilliant cut diamond of approximately 2.15 ct. hung to each, below bellflower shaped diamond set surmount connectors, from smaller round brilliant cut diamond tops, cut down collet, millegrain and claw set in platinum, the peg fittings possibly later, approximately 4.60 cts. in all (including the two main diamonds).

20

17535

Two stone yellow and white diamond crossover ring, set with a 3.30 ct fancy vivid yellow pear diamond opposite a 3.26 ct. E VS1 pear diamond, each terminating upon a shoulder of graduated diamonds, all millegrain set with pierced galleries, accompanied by GIA report no. 1102765961 for the 3.30 ct. giving the fancy vivid yellow color opinion and VS1 clarity and GIA report no. 2171412539 for the 3.26 ct., giving the E VS1 grades.

21

17536

Pair of mid-20th century gold wirework scroll earrings by Cartier, Paris c.1960, the quadruple wire strand shaped into a stylized treble clef and semi-circle design, the outermost wires of ropetwist, both signed Cartier Paris, serial numbered 01893 and with French gold assaymarks.

22

17541

19th century varicolored gem and diamond cluster demi-parure, c.1880, comprising a necklace and a pair of earrings, the necklace with eight gem and diamond oval flowerhead style clusters, seven to the front and a sapphire one to the clasp, each set with a cushion cut colored gemstone within an old cut diamond surround, single stone diamond collet between each cluster and a diamond line back alternating larger and smaller sizes, the varicolored gems including pyrope and almandine garnet, emerald, aquamarine, amethyst, sapphire, peridot, citrine and sapphire, the earrings each with a sapphire and diamond cluster with later added diamond leaf motif and earring fittings, open set and cut-down collet mounted in silver and 18K yellow gold.

23

17544

Pair of antique turquoise and diamond double flowerhead pendant earrings, English c.1900, two graduated flowerhead clusters, each with six turquoise cabochon petals in scalloped edged borders of old single cut diamonds, one diamond to center, open collet set in silver and gold.

24

17543

Early 20th century diamond and sapphire ‘eye’ cluster ring, French c.1910, with an old European cut diamond brilliant to center, approximately 0.90 ct., flanked by tapering caliber cut sapphires in a millegrain scalloped edged border of small old single cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, trace of French assaymark and workshop mark.

25

17547

Pair of diamond and gold C scroll earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, New York, of triple C scroll design, pavé set with round brilliant cut diamonds either side of a central yellow gold snakelink section, one of the diamond scrolls extending to overlap at the base, mounted in platinum and 18K gold, signed ‘VAN CLEEF & ARPELS’, ‘serial number ‘N.Y.17498’, approximately 7 cts. of diamonds in all.

26

17548

Antique three stone turquoise and diamond cluster ring, c.1900, the three graduated oval cabochon turquoise bordered by single cut diamonds, coronet claw set in gold, fluted shoulders, gold shank.

27

17550

Early 20th century two stone diamond and ruby cluster vertical crossover ring, c.1905, forming a portrait figure-of-eight, collet set with two old brilliant pear-shaped diamonds of triangular shield outline, each bordered by caliber cut rubies, graduated diamonds to the scrolling shoulders, mounted in platinum and gold, principal diamonds approximately 1.40 cts. in all.

28

17551

Art Deco two-tone citrine and diamond tramline necklace by Cartier, Paris c.1935, designed as a graduated line of rich brownish- orange oval cut citrines, spaced by parallel twin rectangular cut citrines of lighter yellowish-brown, accented with single-cut diamonds, the clasp similarly set with three smaller baguette citrines, the oval stones claw set, the rectangular cuts channel set, in yellow gold and platinum, signed ‘Cartier Paris’, French assay marks for gold and platinum, crossed C’s workshop mark for Cartier SA, accompanied by IAJA Expertise report no. XP1691- 140524 signed by Olivier Bachet & Bernhard Berger declaring that in their opinion this is a ‘genuine Cartier item’ by Cartier Paris, c.1935.

29

17552

Early 20th century emerald and diamond flowerhead cluster ring c.1915, the circular facetted emerald of approximately 0.55 ct., raised in a diamond line frame, all bordered by fan-cut emeralds forming half moons and outer scalloped edged diamond line edge, millegrain and collet set, between diamond line shoulders, the gallery pierced with a heart scroll band, the shank stamped 15, tested as 18K gold and platinum to head and 15K gold to shank, in our opinion the central emerald is of Colombian origin with minor traditional oil clarity treatment.

30

17553

Cabochon turquoise and diamond dress ring by Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, the round domed turquoise encircled by a pavé set diamond border, extending to crossover diamond shoulders designed as a looping overlapped line in the manner of a braid, slightly tapered split shank back with beveled outer edges, mounted in platinum, signed within ‘VAN CLEEF ARPELS PARIS’ and with French platinum assaymark to shank back, together with a VCA case in beige suede, approximately 1.50 cts. of diamonds in all.

31

17618

Pair of diamond and gold floral cluster earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, made in France probably for New York retail, the flowers of stylized hydrangea design, with tiered heart shaped gold petals, each openwork and set with trios and duo of round brilliant cut diamonds, claw set in platinum, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, signed ‘VAN CLEEF & ARPELS’, ‘MADE IN FRANCE’, serial numbered ‘NY35314’, approximately 6.20 cts. of diamonds in all, together with a VCA case in brown suede.

32

17619

19th century diamond heart pendant, English c.1860, the pendant centered by a principal old pear cut diamond, weighing approximately 1.85 cts., to a pavé set ground of old brilliant, single, double-eight and cushion cut diamonds, to the reverse is a detachable clear glass frame, the pendant suspended from a two stone old cut diamond bale, all cut down collet set and mounted in silver and gold (testing as 18K), the diamonds approximately 6.05 cts. in all including the pear diamond.

33

17623

Pair of mid-20th century turquoise, sapphire and diamond cluster earrings by Tiffany & Co, New York c.1950, designed as a turquoise, diamond and sapphire flowerhead, with pear shaped turquoise petals around a sapphire-in-diamond cluster stamen, to a tiered fanning floral and foliate cluster formed of a sapphire flowerhead, a diamond and sapphire flowerhead, marquise diamond leaves and pear shaped sapphire buds, all scalloped-collet and claw set in 18K yellow gold and platinum, signed to mount ‘TIFFANY & CO’, ‘18K’ and ‘IRID PLAT’, also signed to clip and with ‘18KT and ‘PAT.2423905’, approximately 4.80 cts. of diamonds.

34

17654

Early 20th century graduated rose cut diamond and pearl chain necklace, English c.1900, the single row of 62 round mixed rose cut diamonds alternating small white pearls, chain links in between, approximately 15.50 cts. of diamonds in all.

35

17655

Pair of diamond and drop pearl pendant earrings by Cartier, the flexible tapering diamond pendants of kite shaped outline and tiered geometric design, set with baguette and marquise cut stones, fancy cut accents and each hung with a drop pearl to the lower tier, a fringe of three marquise diamonds to the bottom, the tops formed by a cluster with fancy half-moon and triangular cut stones, signed Cartier, accompanied by reports from two laboratories for the pearls giving the natural saltwater origin; SSEF report no. 89437 & GIA report no. 5172376170.

36

17657

Pair of mid-20th century aquamarine and diamond flower cluster earrings by Cartier London, c.1950, designed as small two-headed floral sprays, the principal flowerhead set with rectangular cut aquamarine petals around an old brilliant cut diamond center, with diamond collet accents in between, the second flower partially visible above, with circular cut aquamarines petals similarly around a diamond center, diamond set leaf seen to one side and stems below, signed to one ‘Cartier London’, serial numbers 2402 and 1915, together with a Cartier case.

37

17658

Antique golden yellow topaz bracelet, c.1800, with thirteen oval and cushion cut facetted stones, of single row end-to-end graduated stones, all close cut-down collet set in 9K gold.

38

17660

Pair of facetted emerald drop, ruby and diamond pendant earrings, each hung with a pear shaped briolette Colombian emerald, 5.05 ct. and 4.65 ct., on a pierced millegrain diamond set cap, below similar diamond set ovoid and sphere, from round cabochon ruby tops, each ruby in diamond line border and with diamond collet accent to center, accompanied by AGL report no. 1085316 A & B giving the Colombian origin opinion and that the stones show no evidence of clarity enhancement (ie no oiling), 10.66 x 6.72 x 12.79mm & 10.40 x 5.25 x 12.52mm.

39

17661

Early 20th century ruby and diamond line bracelet by Boucheron, Paris c.1915, alternating trios of French cut diamonds and rectangular cut Burma rubies, channel set in platinum, the clasp fitting in white gold, signed ‘BOUCHERON PARIS’, with trace of French platinum, subsequent stamps for ‘OR’, ‘PT950’ and tomahawk symbol, accompanied by SSEF report no. 106110 giving a Burma origin opinion for the rubies and that they show no evidence of heat treatment ‘in as far as the setting permits.’

40

17662

Early 20th century emerald and diamond panel brooch, English c.1915, probably by London & Ryder, of garland style, the openwork hexagonal panel centered by a trio of oval cabochon emeralds, framed by diamond set foliate clusters and spaced by concentric channels of caliber cut emeralds, enclosed by a scalloped edge diamond border, mounted in platinum and gold, the diamonds of old single, cushion and rose cut and millegrain set, together with a fitted London & Ryder retailer’s case, (one emerald deficient). Provenance: From the estate of Edward Alfred Alexander Baldwin (1938 - 2021). Edward was the grandson of Prime Minister Stanley Baldwin, and the fourth Earl Baldwin of Bewdley. Stanley Baldwin was from an extraordinary family: Rudyard Kipling was his first cousin, Edward Burne-Jones and Edward Poynter were both uncles, his mother Louisa was a novelist, and her siblings included the famous Macdonald sisters. Edward Baldwin was committed to rehabilitating his grandfather’s reputation and, being an only child, spent much of his life as sole custodian of these family objects. London & Ryder (1861-1929), described themselves as ‘many years principal assistants to C F Hancock’, took over the premises and business of Thomas Hancock at 17 Bond Street and continued to trade there until c.1929 when they were taken over by Finnigans Ltd of 18 New Bond Street.

41

17663

Pair of Art Deco onyx circle and diamond pendant earrings by Henri Picq, Paris, each hung a circular onyx hoop suspending an old brilliant cut diamond within from pavé set diamond sleeve join, from an articulated line of eight smaller diamonds and cabochon onyx tops, the diamonds of old brilliant, cushion and rose cut, millegrain set in platinum and with yellow gold fittings and backs, French assaymarks for the gold, unsigned but accompanied by the original invoice from Henri Picq, giving a diamond weights of two at 0.71 cts. and sixteen at 1.48 cts. (totaling 2.19 cts.). Henri Picq et Fils was founded in 1888 and quickly enjoyed great success as a major supplier to Cartier. After 1900 he worked almost exclusively for them, creating some of their most stunning, intricate and elaborate gem set pieces.

42

17664

Antique diamond and demantoid garnet frog brooch, c.1910, modelled from above with legs partly stretched, pavé set with old brilliant, double-eight and single cut diamonds, a circular facetted demantoid garnet collet set to each eye, mounted in platinum and gold, apparently unmarked.

43

17665

Early 20th century cabochon emerald and diamond collet bracelet possibly by Marcus & Co., American c.1905, with seven cushion shaped sugarloaf cabochon emeralds, spaced by diamond collet quatrelobe and single collet links articulated, mounted in platinum and gold, partial signature: ‘&CO’

44

17666

Early 19th century golden topaz cross pendant, c.1820, of Latin form, with a cut-corner elongated rectangular topaz to each arm and a square cut to center, open cut-down collet set in gold with beaded terminals, simple gold suspension loop.

45

17667

Antique pink topaz and gold cross pendant, c.1820, of Latin form, the arms each set with an elongated cut-corner rectangular topaz, a square cut to center and the lower arm with additional square cut, open cut down collet set in gold, with gold pendant loop.

46

17668

Pink tourmaline, diamond and onyx dress ring, French, the rectangular trap-cut tourmaline, approximately 35 cts., four claw set between stepped baguette diamond and onyx shoulders, mounted in platinum, with workshop and French assaymarks.

47

17669

19th century amethyst collet set necklace, English c.1880, with 24 graduated oval facetted amethysts, all open cut down collet set in gold, the largest amethyst approximately 12.90 ct.

48

17670

Art Deco diamond articulated line bracelet by Lacloche Frères, French c.1930, the bracelet set with old brilliant cut diamonds within box collets, spaced between six oval links, each link set with two millegrain set round diamonds, signed to one edge ‘LACLOCHE FRES PARIS’, the total diamond weight estimated 3.75 cts.

49

17671

19th century chrysoberyl set of necklace and earrings, English, c.1850, the necklace comprised of graduating oval cut chrysoberyls open set in gold with bead and wirework collets, open set with shell and spiral cannetille detailing, the three stone matching earrings are formed of two oval chrysoberyls open set in gold, suspended from one round cut chrysoberyl, all claw set, earring fitting later added.

50

17706

Art Deco diamond square link bracelet by Mauboussin, Paris 1924, the eighteen uniform links of openwork cushion shape, square with rounded corners and each with diamond bar joins, millegrain set with round brilliant and singular cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, approximately 8.65 cts. of diamonds in all, with French platinum assaymark, French workshop mark and serial number 83197, unsigned, accompanied by Certificate of Authenticity from Mauboussin signed by Marguerite de Cerval.

51

17707

Late 18th / early 19th century graduated foiled pink topaz necklace, c.1800, the oval and rectangular cushion cut facetted stones, 30 in all, close cut down collet set in gold.

52

17709

Mid-20th century varicolored gem and diamond floral spray brooch, English c.1940, probably by Fattorini, with rubies, sapphires, amethysts and citrines, to the right a ruby cabochon and pear shaped amethyst petalled flower suspending a hanging cluster of citrine collets, beside a cabochon sapphire and diamond centered flowerhead and similar with caliber amethysts, further ruby cabochon and diamond collets forming buds, green enameled stem below with diamond set tie, open set in gold and platinum, together with a fitted Fattorini case. Fattorini jewellers was founded in Yorkshire during the early 19th century by Antonio Fattorini, an Italian who had arrived in Britain following the Napoleonic wars. Shops and workshops were variously established under the Fattorini banner in Harrogate, Bradford and other cities of the industrial north throughout the 19th century and 20th centuries, finally closing shop in 2012. Known especially for their medals, trophies and enameling, the Bradford concern continued its retail jewelry activity designing articles, possibly such as this brooch, for sale over the counter or for special orders.

53

17711

Antique purple enamel and diamond pansy brooch-pendant by Tiffany, c.1890, in violet enamel shaded lighter to white to the lower petals, old single cut diamond line border to the petal edges, old brilliant cut diamond claw set to center, hinged pendant loop to verso, mounted in gold, the back engraved with a flower, signed ‘TIFFANY &CO’

54

17714

Diamond and platinum collar necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, alternating curved sections of baguette and round brilliant cut diamonds, graduating within each, the baguettes channel set, the brilliants with scalloped edged collets, all articulated and mounted in platinum with white gold clasp fittings, tested as 18K, signed ‘VAN CLEEF & ARPELS NY’, serial numbered 28859, approximately 23.75 cts. in all.

55

17715

Pair of ruby and diamond flowerhead cluster earrings, set with Burma rubies of cushion and oval cut, forming a cinquefoil central cluster in diamond border and outer border of eight rubies all bordered by diamonds in a scalloped edged outline, mounted in platinum and 18K white gold, French control marks for 18K gold and platinum, the rubies of antique cut, the diamonds round brilliant cut, together with a fitted Garrards case, total diamond weight approximately 5.15 cts., total ruby weight approximately 10.25 cts.

56

17717

19th century colored pearl, diamond and emerald scallop shell brooch, English c.1850, the shell bowl with alternating lines of diamonds and emeralds, of cushion and old brilliant cut, terminating in scrolls to the bottom each with a diamond set collet, the ovoid pearl mounted to the center, open set in silver and gold, later gold hinged clip fitting.

57

17720

Pair of natural bouton pearl and diamond cluster earrings, c.1960, each bouton pearl within a curved surround of wing design set with brilliant, old brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds. Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the pearls are natural, saltwater, measuring 11.64 - 11.65 x 9.60mm and 11.66 - 11.80 x 7.91mm. Report number 75607, dated 21 July 2014.

58

17722

Pair of diamond pendant earrings, the pear shaped stones 7.07 cts. I VVS2 and 5.84ct H SI1, each pear-shaped drop within a diamond swing frame, below cushion diamond tops to openwork circular diamond borders, open cut-down collet set in silver and gold, the pear stones accompanied by GIA report no. 1128597072.

59

17726

Art Deco diamond and ruby broad strap bracelet by Cartier, formed of two articulated oblong sections spaced by rectangular buckle motifs, one forming the clasp, the strap with pavé set diamond ground of old and transition circular cuts, pierced with a lozenge pattern, applied along the middle and flanking each buckle with square cut rubies in a stepped geometric line, secured with small single cut diamond collets, mounted in platinum and white gold, signed ‘CARTIER’, serial number 2818584, stamped ‘PT950’ and ‘OR’, and with a workshop mark which is possibly American, approximately 23.50 cts. of diamonds in all, together with a Cartier case.

60

17729

Art Deco diamond, onyx and platinum wristwatch by Cartier, Paris, the rectangular silvered dial with black Roman numerals, signed CARTIER, outer minute marker band, blued steel hands, the bezel set with single cut diamonds, rose cut diamond to the crown, the bracelet formed of diamond set rectangular links upon onyx set oblong joins, diamond elements all millegrain set, the onyx channel set in platinum, mounted in platinum, the case with French platinum assaymarks, numbered to case back 22099 and 11403, numbered within 11403, movement signed ‘E.W. & C. Co Inc’ for European Watch & Clock Co’, ‘EIGHTEEN JEWELS, EIGHT ADJUSTMENTS’, trace of the Edmond Jaeger workshop mark, the clasp rectangle in plain polished white gold, possibly a later addition, approximately 4.05 cts. of diamonds in all.

61

17731

19th century peridot and gold cross pendant, English c.1890, probably by London & Ryder of Bond Street, of uniform shape, each arm formed of single pear shaped peridot, a square step cut peridot to center with a small cushion cut diamond accent at each corner, the stones claw set to a scroll carved gallery, simple circular ring suspension bale, with a fitted case featuring stamp for London & Ryder of 17 New Bond Street.

62

17732

19th century pear shaped orange topaz and diamond cluster pendant, English c.1850, probably by Garrard, London, the golden orange topaz of approximately 22.80 ct., inverted and open cut down collet set within a spaced two row diamond border, the inner row of cushion cut diamonds, the outer row of smaller old single and double-eight cut diamonds of cushion form, cut down collet set in silver, from a similar diamond line suspension loop, set to the front, mounted in silver and gold.

63

17733

Pair of 19th century diamond drop cluster earrings, French c.1890, with ribbon bow tops, the swing cluster drops each centered by a principal cushion cut diamond of approximately 2.80 ct., in a graduated diamond border, hung articulated within an outer frame of graduated diamonds, the detachable diamond bow tops of loosely tied design, each loop of a heart shape, the ribbon ends extending slightly below, all set with old cut diamonds of cushion, brilliant and double-eight cut, the drop cluster of cut down collet and coronet claw setting, the ribbon bow collet and grain set, mounted in silver and gold, French assaymarks for silver and gold, the tops with later added hinged clip fittings, also with French assaymarks, the gold testing as 18K, total diamond weight including principal cushion cuts approximately 21.60 cts.

64

17734

Pair of 19th century diamond drop earrings, c.1890, the swing clusters with rounded flowerhead cluster tops, the pendants with inner drop shaped cluster set with two graduated cushion cut diamonds, hung articulated within an outer cushion cut diamond frame graduating larger to the bottom, below detachable cluster tops with larger cushion diamond to center, a single diamond collet in between, cut-down collet and coronet claw set in silver and gold, gold testing as 14 ct., partial Austrian control mark, total diamond weight approximately 11.50 cts.

65

17735

19th century diamond coiled snake bangle, c.1880, with foiled pink diamond to the head, of double looped form, the dome-topped flat backed body articulated at hinges to sides and back, inset along the body with three lines of old brilliant cut diamonds graduating to two and single row at the tail, the head featuring a broader cluster centered by the larger old elongated cushion cut foiled pink diamond, a small demantoid garnet to each eye, close cut down collet set and mounted in silver and gold, with a fitted case with stamp for Régner, 368 Rue St Honoré, Paris, approximately 45 cts. of diamonds.

66

17736

Ruby and diamond collar necklace, Paris, made by the Dumont, Bouchard & Cie. workshop, possibly for Van Cleef and Arpels, with three graduated rows of cushion cut rubies to the front, accented by baguette cut diamond highlights, the back with two rows of rubies, spaced by diamond cluster side clasps of geometric hook-and-eye design, set with circular-cut and baguette diamonds, French assay and partial maker’s marks, separates into two segments, accompanied by GemCard from Gubelin giving the opinion that the large majority of rubies are found to be of Burma origin with no heat treatment. PROVENANCE This necklace and a brooch en suite are mentioned in a 1943 insurance valuation by Chaumet and have remained in the family ever since.

67

17737

Late 19th century diamond stag’s head brooch, English c.1890, probably by Parkes of Vigo Street, naturalistically modelled in high relief, front facing alert with ears upright and majestic six- pronged antler, pavé set throughout with old brilliant and rose cut diamonds, a cabochon ruby to each eye, mounted in silver and gold, together with a fitted case with stamp for ‘PARKES 12, VIGO STREET, REGENT STREET, W.’, approximately 3.0 cts. of diamonds, accompanied by a later 1920s dealer’s purchase receipt. Parkes & Co. succeeded Dickinson in 1875, a firm reputedly founded in 1777. Parkes & Co. dealt in high-class jewels, modern and ancient silver, gold, plate, miniatures, enamels and curiosities at 12-13 Vigo Street, Regent Street. The business was continued by James Parkes’ son, Fraser, the sole partner of Robert Dicker at 8 Vigo Street. In 1897 and 1902 James Parkes’ home address was Holmwood, Carlton Hill, Putney Hill, S.W. In 1910 he was living at Grangemuir, Wimbledon Common.

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