COAST MAGAZINE SPRING 2024
PHILADELPHIA REVISTED
RV HOPPING THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS
SARASOTA, AN ARTSY BEACH TOWN WITH FLAIR
SPRING DESTINATIONS
GETTYSBURG BATTLEFIELD RESORT Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
GHOST MOUNTAIN RANCH Pollock Pines, California
LAKE SHORE RESORT Davison, Michigan
CONTENTS
TRAVEL 8 PHILADELPHIA REVISITED Story and Photos by Richard Varr
CHAIRMAN OF CAMPING WORLD HOLDINGS Marcus Lemonis CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Matthew Wagner EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT GOOD SAM ENTERPRISES Will Colling COAST TO COAST Bruce Hoster CCRPresident@coastresorts.com MARKETING DIRECTOR Kristin Moser EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Dee Whited SENIOR DESIGNER Aubry Meyer BUSINESS MANAGER Christina Din COAST MEMBER SERVICES 64 Inverness Drive East Englewood, Colorado 80112 800-368-5721 info@coastresorts.com COAST TO COAST WEBSITE CoastResorts.com
13 RV HOPPING THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS Story and Photos from Paula Loehr
COAST FACEBOOK PAGE Facebook.com/CoastResorts
VOLUME 43, NUMBER 2. Coast to Coast (ISSN 1093-3581) is published quarterly for $14 per year as part of annual membership fees, by Coast to Coast Resorts, 64 Inverness Drive E., Englewood, Colorado 80112. Coast to Coast Resorts assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manu scripts or artwork. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced by any method without prior written consent of the publisher. ©2024 Camp Coast to Coast, LLC. Coast wing logo is a registered trademark of Camp Coast to Coast, LLC. The GOOD SAM ICON, and Dream. Plan. Go. are registered trademarks of Good Sam Enterprises, LLC and used with permission. Unauthorized use of Coast’s or Good Sam’s trademarks is expressly prohibited. All rights reserved. PRINTED IN THE USA. COVER PHOTO: HAWAII, BY PAULA LOEHR CTC64608 - 032024
19 SARASOTA, AN ARTSY BEACH TOWN WITH FLAIR Feature by Emily Fagan Photos by Emily and Mark Fagan
DEPARTMENTS 3 RESORT UPDATES
RESORT PROFILES 5 LAKE SHORE RESORT Davison, Michigan 6 GETTYSBURG BATTLEFIELD RESORT Gettysburg, Pennsylvania 7 GHOST MOUNTAIN RANCH Pollock Pines, California
24 RV REVIEW
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RESORT UPDATES The 2024 Coast to Coast Resort Directory is packed with everything you need to navigate the network of Coast to Coast Resorts and Coast Good Neighbor Parks. To keep members up-to-date, each issue of Coast magazine includes any updates that have occurred since the last issue.
NEW DELUXE RESORT
New York Champ’s Campground & RV Park 1 Main Street, Whitehall, 12887 Phone (518) 499-5055 Email me.campmoonlight@gmail.com. RV notations: Additional charges: 50 amp $10/night, late cancellation $10, late departure $10. No cable available. Drive-ups not accepted. Season: June 1 - October 10.
NEW GOOD NEIGHBOR PARKS
RESORT TYPE CHANGE
New York Niagara’s Lazy Lakes Resort, Lockport (page 142) Now a Deluxe resort (previously Classic)
Arizona Payson Campground & RV Resort 808 AZ-260, Payson, 85549 Phone: (928) 472-2267
Email: info@paysoncampground.com Website: www.paysoncampground.com RV notations: 2024 Coast rate of $49.50 - $57.60/night. Rate includes 2 adults and full hook-ups. Season: Year-round. California Arabian RV Oasis 12401 Boron Avenue, Boron, 93516 Phone: (760) 762-5008 Email: micelfm@yahoo.com Website: www.goodsam.com/campgrounds-rv- parks/details?cgid=201620132 RV notations: 2024 Coast discount 10%. Rate includes 2 adults and full hook-ups. Season: Year-round.
CLASSIC RESORT TERMINATION
Louisiana Passport to Leisure, Robert (page 128)
DELUXE RESORT TERMINATION
Missouri Tievoli Hills Resort - Family Resorts and Travel, Clarksville (page 138)
Virginia Skyline Ranch Resort, Front Royal (page 160)
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DeAnza Springs 1951 Carriza Gorge Rd, Jacumba Hot Springs, 91934 Phone: (619) 766-4301
Okefenokee Pastimes RV Park & Cabins 28244 GA Hwy 121, Folkston, 31537 Phone: (912) 496-4472 Email: pastimescampground@gmail.com Website: www.okefenokee.com RV notations: 2024 Coast discount 15% Mar – Dec. Rate includes 2 adults and full hook-ups. Additional charges: Pets $1/night, tax 8%. Season: Year-round.
Email: luke@deanzasprings.com Website: www.deanzasprings.com
RV notations: 2024 Coast discount 20% Nov - Feb, and 10% Mar - Oct. Rate includes 6 guests and full hook-ups. Additional charges: Add’l adult $25/night. Season: Year-round. Stagecoach Trails Horse Camp 7878 Great Southern Overland Stage Rd of 1849, Julian, 92036 Phone: (760) 765-3765 Email: Frontdesk@stagecoachtrails.com Website: www.stagecoachtrails.com. RV notations: 2024 Coast discount 15%. Rate includes 4 adults and full hook-ups. Additional charges: Add’l adult $10/night, add’l vehicle $10/ night, tax 8%. Season: Year-round.
Nevada Whispering River Ranch RV Park 36 NV-339, Yerington, 89447 Phone: (775) 461-6522
Email: cindy@wrrrvp.com Website: www.wrrrvp.com
RV notations: 2024 Coast discount 10%. Rate includes 2 adults and full hook-ups. Additional charges: Tax 10%. Season: Year-round.
Florida Breezy Oaks RV Park 9683 CR 671, Bushnell, 33513 Phone: (352) 569-0300
GOOD NEIGHBOR PARK UPDATES
Nebraska The Four Seasons RV Park, Elm Creek (page 198) New web address: https://www.the4seasonsrvpark.com/ South Dakota Gate City Events & Lodging, Canton (page 202) New telephone number: 605-214-4604
Email: office@breezyoaksrvpark.com Website: www.breezyoaksrvpark.com RV notations: 2024 Coast discount 10%. Rate includes 2 adults and full hook-ups. Season: Year-round.
Travelers Campground 17701 April Blvd, Alachua, 32615 Phone: (386) 462-2505 Email: mwood0068@gmail.com
GOOD NEIGHBOR PARK TERMINATIONS
Website: www.travelerscampground.com RV notations: 2024 Coast discount 10%. Rate includes 2 adults and full hook-ups. Season: Year-round. Georgia Lake Harmony, 1088 Lake Harmony Dr SW, Townsend, 31331 Phone: (912) 832-4338 Email: info@lakeharmonypark.com Website: www.lakeharmonypark.com RV notations: 2024 Coast discount 15% May 1 - Oct 15. Rate includes 2 adults and full hook-ups. Additional charges: Add’l person $3/night, add’l vehicle $5/night, tax 8%. Season: Year-round.
Georgia River Vista RV Resort, Dillard (page 190)
Texas Acacia RV Park, Alamo (page 205) Big Valley RV Resort, Donna (page 206) Carefree Valley MHP & RV Resort, Harlingen (page 207) Citrus Valley MH & RV Park, McAllen (page 208) Magnolia Village MHP & RV Park, Donna (page 206) Gateway MHP & RV Park, Raymondville (page 209)
Washington Glacier Peak Resort, Rockport (page 213)
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RESORT TYPE: Premier LOCATION: Davison, Michigan SEASON: Year-round WEBSITE: www.outdooradventuresinc.com
LAKE SHORE RESORT
A resort for all seasons
Lake Shore Resort in Davison, Michigan, offers camping and cabins in a beautiful natural setting of nature trails and a spring-fed lake. With a beach area, indoor and outdoor pools and hot tubs, lazy river, splash pad, and wading pool, this resort offers water activities for the entire family. Explore the lake in a variety of ways: rowboat, canoe, kayak, paddle boat, and swimming. Before and after being lakeside, enjoy the family- oriented clubhouse and pavilion, or the lounge for grown-ups. Other onsite activities include putt-putt golf, children’s playground, fitness center, horseshoes, tennis courts, basketball courts, shuffleboard, volleyball, planned activities, and entertainment. Organized activities include, but are not limited to, outdoor team games, cards, holiday dinners, karaoke nights, and children’s crafts. There are lots of ways to meet old and new friends at the picnic area with grills. Enjoy an evening around one of the community fire pits,
or grab a quick bite to eat at the snack bar, and stock up at the general store. If you must leave the resort, nearby you’ll find an old-fashioned cider mill, riding stable, and plenty of shopping and dining venues. A little further away is Flint—just 10 miles east. Michigan’s “Little Bavaria,” Frankenmuth, is only 34 miles from the resort for a delightful day trip. Within driving distance, visit Crossroads Village, take a ride on the narrow-gauge Huckleberry Railroad steam locomotive or cruise Mott Lake aboard the Genessee Belle paddle-wheeler. In the summer months, there’s an abundance of local events, activities, and entertainment not far from your campsite at the resort. The winter months offer skiing, both downhill and cross-country, snowboarding, ice fishing, ice skating, and snowmobiling for all ages. Snowshoeing through the hiking trails rewards you an abundance of clean, crisp air and quiet serenity.
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RESORT TYPE: Premier LOCATION: Gettysburg, Pennsylvania SEASON: Year-round WEBSITE: www.travelresorts.com
GETTYSBURG BATTLEFIELD RESORT
The perfect combination of history and beauty
A stay at Gettysburg Battlefield Resort is much more than memories of the 1863 battle. Once situated on the beautiful grounds of the resort, you’re just minutes away from downtown historic Gettysburg. Also nearby are Dutch and Amish country attractions and “The Sweetest Place on Earth,” Hershey Park. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a long hike or short jaunt on the Appalachian Trail, just 79 miles away. The resort is perfect for exploring, or just sitting and relaxing. As a member-based campground, neighbors become friends and friends become family. There’s always something to do and learn. Adjacent to the historic Gettysburg National Military Park, where one of the most significant battles of the Civil War was fought, you’re able to walk on the Battlefield grounds. But it’s not all about battles and history. Make your own memories at the many amenities onsite. Exercise in the Olympic-size swimming pool. The little ones will enjoy the playgrounds. There are ball fields and courts. Take advantage
of shopping at the general store to stock up on forgotten items, or enjoy an ice cream with Hershey’s hand-dipped ice cream. Learn new games in the game room and catch and release fish at the stocked pond. There’s time to meet new and old friends at the regularly themed activities through the week. The options are endless. For a relaxing time you can enjoy kayaking on the pond, or try your hand at horseshoes or shuffleboard. If you have traveled without your rig or have friends joining you, rent one of the modern cabins. Whether you want to explore or just sit and relax and be one with nature, Gettysburg Battlefield Resort is unmatched in its possibilities. Gettysburg National Military Park is also a home or stopover point for several federal and state- listed endangered, threatened, or candidate species. Threatened bird species such as ospreys and federally endangered bald eagles have been observed soaring in the skies over the battlefields.
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RESORT TYPE: Classic LOCATION: Pollock Pines, California SEASON: Year-round WEBSITE: www.coloradoriveradventures.com
GHOST MOUNTAIN RANCH Old West life amid modern amenities
Nestled among the tall pines in the Sierra Mountains, at the gateway to South Lake Tahoe, awaits Ghost Mountain Ranch. Originally designed by Paramount Pictures, this resort was once the set of the popular TV series The Virginian and perfectly captures the pure essence of old West life. To add to the old-West lifestyle, saddle up your horses because Ghost Mountain Ranch has safe and clean corrals on the property as well as miles of trails to explore. Or, if you prefer, practice your tricks in the Rodeo Arena. The area surrounding the 325-acre pine preserve has dozens of trails and literally hundreds of square miles to explore by horseback. Hiking in the Sierras is a trail hiker’s dream come true. El Dorado National Forest has hundreds of miles of beautiful hiking trails all located nearby. If horses or hiking aren’t for you, fill your days with activities at the pool. A vintage ghost town complete with a saloon and ice cream parlor are only the beginnings of the resort’s delightful
charm. Don’t forget to pack your poles, tackle, and bait because it’s time for you to reel in the big one at the stocked fishing pond. Your kids will love casting in and pulling out one of the many fish stocked in the catch and release pond. The crystal-clear swimming pool has a seasonal snack bar when you want to let someone else do the cooking. Offsite day or night, visit South Lake Tahoe, where you can enjoy skiing, boating, bike trails, blackjack, or ice skating. You can shred down the mountain from 10,067 feet or you can dive into the depths of Lake Tahoe. It’s more than 1,600 feet deep, making it one of the deepest lakes in North America. There are plenty of things to do in Lake Tahoe. The Virginian TV series was shown from 1962 to 1971. Although the series was based in Wyoming from the 1890s onward, the scenery around the California RV resort was a good stand-in for the series’ rugged Wyoming country.
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PHILADELPHIA REVISITED
Carpenters’ Hall with its rounded white tower and cupola was completed by the nation’s oldest trade guild in 1773.
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It’s twilight in the City of Brotherly Love, and I’m on a tour offering what you might call a different perspective of Philadelphia’s colonial history. I’m standing outside the American Philosophical Society Library with a statue of native son Benjamin Franklin flanking a stack of books. It was Franklin who founded the Library Company of Philadelphia, America’s first lending library, but what I hear this evening is something I never read in the history books. “The building is not original. It burned down, but they rebuilt it to the original specifications with the original materials,” explains tour guide Steve Miller. “And the ghosts are still original as well,” he quips. “Franklin famously haunts the stairwell and also his office in the back of the building.” Yes, Miller is a guide with Philadelphia Ghost Tour and adds that sightings of the famous founding father are different throughout the year. “He shows up for a couple seconds and then he disappears. Sometimes he appears aggressive or confused,” says Miller. A short time later, we have a twilight view of America’s most famous statehouse, Independence Hall, with its whitewashed columned clock tower. Framed by the leafy trees of this section of Independence National Historical Park, the famous 1753 Georgian architecture-style building is where delegates signed both the Declaration of Independence and the U.S. Constitution. But on this night, I learn it was also used as an ad hoc hospital during the American Revolution. And the tour’s version is again about spooky sightings. “The ghosts will show up wounded at the top of the stairs at the landing,” Miller says. “This cloud starts to form and out of it they’ll see this man in war clothes sometimes tattered and sometimes injured and a limb will be missing because amputation was very common back then.” While I frankly find it hard to believe in such ghostly sightings, the tour does reveal some of Philadelphia’s macabre and darker moments. Philadelphia Revisited The Founding Fathers Revealed Story and Photos by Richard Varr
The Philadelphia skyline as seen from the top of the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
For example, we stop in Washington Square, now a pleasant shaded park with benches and walking paths, which was in fact once a burial ground. Miller raises the grisly scenario of how bones sometimes surface due to soil erosion from flooding rainfalls. That’s because several thousand bodies including Revolutionary War soldiers and victims of the city’s 1793 yellow fever epidemic were interred here in shallow graves. Today, the Tomb of the Unknown Revolutionary War Soldier with an eternal flame sits on one side of the square. The ghost tour was just one activity during my four-day visit to one of America’s most historic cities, and my most extensive touring since I lived there and researched and wrote the Dorling Kindersley Eyewitness Travel Guide to Philadelphia and the Pennsylvania Dutch Country 20 years ago. From Old City’s Independence Hall, Liberty Bell, and Christ Church where the founding fathers worshipped, to Center City’s glistening skyline and the Rocky movies-made-famous grand 72 stone steps leading up to the Philadelphia Museum of Art, it seems not much has changed. While there are a few more skyscrapers and seemingly forever- changing restaurants like in any town, the major attractions remain must-see things to do. What I did find new since my last Philly visit is the Museum of the American Revolution, opened in 2017. With dioramas and artifacts including 18th-century muskets, personal diaries and letters, to name a few, the museum traces the events leading up to the 13 Colonies revolting against England and the timeline of the war. But the highlight and must-see exhibit is Gen. George Washington’s Revolutionary War Tent,
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see inside the tent to see what it looks like and get a glimpse of an inner chamber,” adds Skic. Adding to the intrigue is the tent’s history. Ownership passed down from Washington eventually to the family of Confederate Gen. Robert E. Lee when George and Martha Washington’s great granddaughter, Mary Anna Randolph Custis, married Lee in 1831—a bit of irony perhaps considering Washington fought to establish a new nation while the Confederacy’s aim was to split it apart. The museum’s very life-like dioramas include a fully uniformed Gen. Washington breaking up a street brawl in Harvard Yard, figurines of Oneida Nation Native Americans debating whether to side with the Americans or British, and colonial protestors—fired up by a first reading of the Declaration of Independence—preparing to topple a replica statue of England’s King George III in New York City. “Most of the statue was melted down and turned into 42,000 musket balls to fire back at the British,” says Skic. “One newspaper account called it ‘melted majesty.’” It’s easy to trace the founding fathers’ footsteps in Old City Philadelphia, a compact neighborhood stretching from 6th and 7th street on the west side to the Delaware River on its east end. Often referred to as “America’s Most Historic Square Mile,” the district is an open-air museum of sorts with many of the actual buildings—or their reconstructions—in which our nation’s government and institutions were formed, all in walking distance of each other. Stepping out of the Museum of the American Revolution, I cross 3rd Street and walk up the steps of the First Bank of the United States fronted by its massive Corinthian columns—the same steps once used by Alexander Hamilton,
Washington’s Tent with full light, courtesy Museum of the American Revolution.
the actual canvas battleground headquarters where Washington slept and commanded the Continental Army from 1778 up until the war- ending 1781 Battle of Yorktown. “The tent is like seeing a tangible connection to the past when Gen. Washington was sitting on his camp stool and writing correspondence— when writing in moments of triumph but also in some of the darkest moments when it looked like the American Revolution wasn’t going to succeed,” says Matthew Skic, the museum’s Curator of Exhibitions. “This tent was witness to that—an emotional thing when thinking about the decision-making that was going on in that tent.” Washington’s war tent, in fact, is the star of its own show with actual hourly theater presentations. Each begins with a 12-minute movie projected on a partially see-though screen in front of the tent, followed by dim lights revealing its outline until the lights are turned up full. That’s when visitors get a clear look at the off-white tent with its ascending roof that drops down to a decorative valance with edges of red worsted- wool binding. Keeping lights low for most of the show is to preserve the heavy-weight linen canvas, explains Skic. “It’s in quite good shape for being just about 250 years old and that’s why we feel comfortable displaying it the way we do.” At one point, a shadow is cast upon one side of the tent—a figure of a man inside walking against what appears to be flickering candlelight. Perhaps it’s how Washington’s image actually appeared when working inside, I wonder. The shadow effect is possible because that side of the tent’s walls didn’t survive and is thus a reproduction with thin fabric designed for such a light projection. “So, at one point you’re able to
Brawl at Harvard Yard with George Washington, a diorama in the Museum of the American Revolution.
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The Museum of the American Revolution.
U.S. Constitution Center Signers’ Hall, with bronze statues of the 39 signers and 3 dissenters.
Center directly across Chestnut Street from Independence Hall, the home of flag sewer Betsy Ross, and the reconstructed City Tavern where politicians once debated and businessmen struck deals. The President’s House Site is an open-air outline and base of Washington’s and John Adams’ home while serving as first and second Commander in Chief. Today, plaques pay homage to the enslaved workers who lived there during Washington’s presidency. In Franklin Court, steel beams serve as an outline of what was Benjamin Franklin’s three-story home. A museum highlights his life, inventions, and accomplishments as the foremost diplomat and statesman during colonial times, the American Revolution and during the early years of our nation. Georgian-style Christ Church is where Washington, Franklin, and other founding fathers attended services with plaques marking their pews. Just a few blocks away, the church’s cemetery is the final resting place of five signers of the Declaration of Independence, including Franklin, whose grave is at the corner of Arch and 5th streets, where passersby toss coins onto it. In a twist of sorts, Philadelphia’s U.S. Mint directly across Arch Street has the capacity to pound out up to 32 million coins a day. To see an authentic example of colonial Philadelphia, I stop at Elfreth’s Alley, the nation’s oldest residential street, where modern-day Philadelphians still reside in the more than 200-300 year-old brick rowhouses. “Within the bounds of modern living, I try to respect the history of the house,” says Brenda Frank, a resident of one of the homes since 1990. “I feel a responsibility to keep it as original as possible.
The Second Bank of the United States.
the country’s first Secretary of the Treasury. Just a block away stands the Greek temple-like Second Bank of the United States, now a gallery with portraits of our early presidents and other colonial-era people painted by the likes of Gilbert Stuart, Thomas Sully, and Charles Willson Peale, among others. Nearby Carpenters’ Hall with its rounded white tower and cupola was completed by the nation’s oldest trade guild in 1773. Just a year later, however, it was the meeting place of the First Continental Congress, where representatives of 12 of the 13 original colonies banded together and agreed to boycott British imports. It’s where patriot Patrick Henry was quoted saying, “The distinctions between Virginians, Pennsylvanians, New Yorkers, and New Englanders are no more. I am not a Virginian, but an American.” Independence Hall runs daily tours highlighting its historic chambers where both the Declaration of Independence and the U.S. Constitution were debated and signed. In the nearby Constitution Center, I walk amid the bronze statues of the document’s 39 signers and 3 dissenters, including George Washington standing tall behind a desk, Alexander Hamilton with a walking cane and a finger-pointing Benjamin Franklin seated at a table surrounded by fellow delegates. Other historic sites include the Liberty Bell
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I would never do anything to mar the floors or change the woodwork.” “This was a completely working class street for most of its history, which means people lived and worked right in their homes,” says Jennifer Boch, a staff member with Elfreth’s Alley’s two house museums with their narrow stairwells and low ceiling rooms. “They were dressmakers, shoemakers, bakers, and other types of artisan occupations. They built Philadelphia.” Philadelphia was founded by Quaker William Penn in 1682, between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers. “Penn laid out the city in a nice orderly grid formation with wide streets and brick buildings because he grew up in London where things were cramped and streets were narrow and winding,” explains Mark Marano, the site manager of the 1804 Arch Street Meeting House on Arch Street which continues to host Quaker worship and meetings to the present day. Penn’s city grid with four outlying squares also included a center square where a statue of Penn stands atop the grand French Renaissance Revival Philadelphia City Hall. One of the others is Logan Square—now with a traffic circle—where the stunning Swann Memorial Fountain features sculptures in so- called “river god” tradition to highlight the city’s surrounding waterways. The square sits about halfway along the grand Benjamin Franklin Parkway that stretches from City Hall to the “Rocky Steps” of the Philadelphia Museum of
Rocky Statue at the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
Art. Perched on a hill, the museum offers great views of the city skyline and Schuylkill River. And yes, a statue of the movie series’ Rocky character remains, often with crowds lined up for photos. Many of the city’s other prominent museums are also located along the parkway. In addition to paintings by Cézanne, Matisse, and Picasso, the Barnes Foundation’s Impressionist collection includes 181 Renoir artworks, the most anywhere in the world. The Rodin Museum houses one of the largest collections of sculptor Auguste Rodin’s works outside Paris. Kids will particularly enjoy the Franklin Institute with its interactive science and technology exhibits, and Dinosaur Hall with its 42-foot-long T-Rex fossil within the Academy of Natural Sciences. Both museums flank Logan Square. Of course, no visit to Philadelphia would be complete without biting into a Philly cheesesteak sandwich, which you can find at almost any corner pizzeria. For an extraordinary experience, head to South Philadelphia to Geno’s Steaks or Pat’s King of Steaks, both emblazoned with neon lights and located across the street from each other. Visitors are often hard pressed to make a choice!
FOR MORE INFORMATION www.visitphilly.com
Elfreth’s Alley is the place to see authentic examples of colonial Philadelphia.
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THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS
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The Best of Both Worlds: RV Hopping the Hawaiian Islands Story and Photos from Paula Loehr If you think traveling to the exotic Hawaiian Islands means you have to give up the RV / camping lifestyle while you experience the Aloha lifestyle, think again. Keep reading and you will learn how to have the best of both worlds. My first camping connection in Hawaii happened long ago in 1978, two years after my 1976 wedding. Due to the financial constraints of student life, my husband Dennis and I delayed our honeymoon trip for a couple of years after we tied the knot. In 1978, we wrapped up our college years at University of California Santa Barbara. We were relocating to Virginia, and a speedy return to the West Coast seemed unlikely. So we purchased roundtrip tickets from Los Angeles to Honolulu for our Hawaiian honeymoon. Upon arrival on Oahu, we rented a small leaky canvas tent and spent two soggy weeks camping during the height of Hawaii’s rainy season. Much to our amazement, the Hawaiian State Park system (circa 1978) permitted free camping at Hawaiian beach parks. It felt like serendipity—a belated wedding present. The Aloha State’s complimentary camping policy allowed us to tent our way from one uncrowded beach site to another. Between raindrops, we thoroughly explored Oahu’s super-scenic coastline, and toured several of the island’s best indoor attractions. Traveling around Oahu via metro buses, we landed in the good company of aloha-spirited local folks. They shared their Hawaiian customs, culture, and cuisine. Lau lau (fresh-caught fish steamed in taro leaves), roasted kalua pig, pupus (island-style appetizers), legendary Spam, and Hawaiian shaved ice became parts of our daily menus. All in all, we enjoyed two of the most memorable weeks of our lives. A few decades later, fond Hawaiian recollections inspired our return to Oahu for a three-week surfing adventure with three teenage sons.
You can walk an easy paved trail up to Waimea Falls.
And in 2023, we ventured back to Hawaii again, this time with all our sons, two daughters-in- law, and four grandchildren. Dennis and I were celebrating 50 years since we met in Santa Barbara, so we enhanced the trip by visiting several islands in the Hawaiian chain. It was not surprising that the passage of four- plus decades brought major differences in terms of Hawaii’s camping options. For our part, our RV-loving family had camped in a series of pop-ups, travel trailers, and motorhomes since the early 1980s. Our collective tenting skills were decidedly rusty. RV Camping, Hawaiian Style, in the 2020s If you decide to camp on the Hawaiian Islands, you will need to think creatively and go with the flow. A primary consideration for RV owners flying to Hawaii is the rock-solid fact that you cannot take your camping vehicle along for the ride. RV travelers who are island hopping will likely reserve a combination of campervans, glamping tents, cabins, and cottages to round out lodging needs. A fair amount of research is required to find the best fit for your preferences. It is a more complex variation of the typical vacation rental search. Island hopping in Hawaii in 2024 requires short airplane flights from one isle to another. Mobile camper rentals in Hawaii are plentiful, but almost all recreational vehicles on the Islands are downsized as compared with typical
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The view of the Honolulu skyline from Punch Bowl is amazing.
mainland American RVs. Many Hawaiian roads are narrow and winding with two-way traffic. Super-sized vehicles are simply not driver friendly. Unfortunately, a Hawaiian ferry system allowing easy vehicle transport between islands is not operational now. What a boom a reliable flotilla of inter-island ferries would be for RVers visiting Hawaii! You can secure Hawaiian RVs from established companies with campervan fleets or you can rent camping-friendly or retro-fitted all-terrain sports vehicles from private owners. If you are hopping from island to island, you will probably settle on a combination of both options—a hybrid approach. Either way, you must rent separate recreational vehicles for each island you plan to visit or opt for alternative lodgings. Select Hawaiian RV rentals come with parking privileges included or specific site suggestions in various locales. These are valuable advantages when locations are favorable. So ask strategic questions, inquire about provisions included with rentals, and gather pertinent facts about local campsites before you confirm each RV reservation. Renting Hawaiian RVs Helpful websites to visit when searching for your best matches in Hawaiian camper rentals are www.outdoorsy.com, www.rvshare.com, www. campervanHawaii.com, www.northshorevans. com, www.mauicamperescapes.com, www. mauicamperandvanrentals.com and www. booking.com. To maximize your trip’s potential, ask rental agents and local private owners for helpful tips about where and how to camp
on their home islands. They will probably be your best sources for spot-on campground recommendations, as well as cautionary tales. Where to Camp on the Islands If you decide to try tent camping on Oahu, Hoomaluhia Botanical Garden (www.honolulu. gov/parks/beach-parks/camping), Malaekahana Bay State Recreation Area, and Kahana Bay Beach Park (check for both sites at https:// camping.ehawaii.gov/camping) are relatively well-equipped campgrounds in lovely locations. Hoomaluhia (just a 30-minute drive from Honolulu near Kaneohe) offers a lakeside setting with gorgeous tropical gardens and walking trails. Beachfront Malaekahana (near Kahuku on Oahu’s North Shore) is within easy swimming distance of Goat Island, a popular sea creature sanctuary. Kahana Bay’s sandy beach was one of our favorite tenting spots when we camped on Oahu’s coast back in 1978 and it was still a remarkable locale in 2023. Camping days are strictly limited at all three locations, so reserve your stay in advance. For an up-to-date list of open campgrounds in and around Honolulu, check out www.honolulu.gov/parks/beach- parks/camping.
Seal sightings on Hawaiian beaches are so special.
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On the Big Island of Hawaii, camping is allowed at county beach parks, state parks, and at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Tent camping is most common, but vehicular camping is available at many locations. The national park has two drive-in campgrounds—Namakanipaio and Kulanaokuaiki. To check for campsites at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, see www. hawaiivolcanohouse.com/campground-and- cabins/. The sprawling Big Island also has private campgrounds. Basic utility services (water, toilets, showers, electricity) vary by location, so check details concerning what is installed onsite before choosing your camp spot. If you visit the island of Kauai, county and state parks do not allow vehicle camping, but a limited number of rental tents, cabins, cottages, and lodges are offered. Reserve your favored place well in advance. Also investigate options at Kauai’s Camp Sloggett, a promising YWCA affiliate (www.ywcakauai.org/camp-sloggett/). On Maui, camping options come in all shapes, sizes, and styles, both public and private. Campers in vehicles are welcome at Hosmer Grove or Oheo Gulch in Haleakala National Park. Secure your campsite at www.recreation. gov/camping/gateways/2751. At Waianapanapa State Park you can rent a rustic cabin that accommodates six guests or reserve a camping vehicle parking slot. Waianapanapa boasts standard restrooms with showers and electricity in its cabins. Visit www. dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/maui/waianapanapa- state-park for details. For information about the State of Hawaii’s county campgrounds, view the official websites for the counties you plan to visit. County campgrounds with onsite security patrols are recommended. Permits must be secured ahead of your stay. To learn about sites at state campgrounds, see https://camping.ehawaii.gov/camping . Up front permits are required. To read about camping possibilities at Hawaii’s National Parks, go to https://nps.gov/state/hi. Regardless of the nightly accommodations you pick for your Hawaiian getaway, local attractions
on your to-do list will determine day-to-day island itineraries. Following are brief highlights from my family’s island-hopping adventures. Touring Wonderful Oahu Dynamic Oahu, Hawaii’s most populous isle, is a complex fusion of edgy urban skyline, rainforests, mountains, valleys, waterfalls, and surf-pounded coastlines. Downtown Honolulu, Hawaii’s largest city, is famous for sweeping views from the crest of Diamond Head, a classic beachfront at Waikiki, Pearl Harbor’s profound memorial, and awesome cultural exhibits at the Bishop Museum. In Honolulu, be sure to see the righteous bronze statue of Hawaii’s original monarch, King Kamehameha I. He ruled the Islands from 1795 until 1819, and today he stands proudly in front of Aliiolani Hale (home of the Hawaiian
Take time to explore Oahu’s North Shore beaches.
King Kamehameha’s statue in Honolulu is a sight to behold.
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Waimea Valley Park is a must-see natural North Shore gem. The geographically diverse valley stretches all the way from mountains to the deep blue Pacific Ocean. Allow a few hours for a leisurely stroll through 35 distinct botanic gardens boasting 5,000 tropical plant varieties from Hawaii and other exotic locales. Considered a sacred place by local Hawaiians, Waimea Valley contains several archaeologic sites, including a 15th century heiau, a traditional place of worship. You can walk an easy paved trail to Waimea’s 45-foot-high waterfall (with life-guard protected swimming hole), or board a shuttle cart for a quick ride to the cascades. Remember to scan trees for brightly hued Hawaiian birds, and check the park’s schedule for hands-on activities like lei making and hula dancing lessons. Directly across the street at Waimea Beach Park, summer visitors like to swim or snorkel in gentle Pacific waters. Winter visitors can watch fearless surfers from around the world ride Waimea’s legendary waves. Dole Pineapple Plantation on the North Shore’s Kamehameha Highway started as a small roadside pineapple stand in 1950. Today you can still purchase fresh juicy Hawaiian pineapples grown in volcanic soil. You can also catch the Pineapple Express train for a 20-minute narrated ride past Dole’s agricultural fields. A self-guided Plantation Garden Tour focuses on Hawaiian farming and crafts, and a unique botanical Garden Maze (the world’s largest) stands ready for guests to ramble. Before you
Punchbowl mosaics depict American wartime achievements.
Oahu seascapes are unforgettable.
Supreme Court), at the corner of King and Milani Streets. Wearing a feathered gold-leaf helmet and flowing cloak, Kamehameha I projects a decidedly royal vibe. The National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, better known as Punch Bowl, is another compelling spot to visit in Honolulu. Located inside an extinct volcanic crater, Punch Bowl is a reverent burial ground honoring military efforts and personal sacrifices in south and central Pacific zones during World War II, the Korean War, and the Vietnam War. Punch Bowl’s focal point is a majestic stone staircase leading to an imposing white Lady Columbia statue, representative of all grieving mothers. An open- air chapel and wall panels with intricate mosaic maps outlining American military achievements are set on shady walkways behind the memorial terrace. Lush green grounds with tropical plantings and a balcony overlooking downtown Honolulu are perfect complements to Punch- Bowl’s awe-inspiring presence. After touring downtown Honolulu with its quick pace and throngs of tourists, going natural on the North Shore is a refreshing change of pace. Oahu’s countryside, one hour from Honolulu in light traffic, is surprisingly green and relatively laid back. Keep in mind that traffic can also be heavy on the North Shore, especially during the peak winter surf season.
Dole Pineapple Plantation on the North Shore’s Kamehameha Highway.
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Immediately across the street, Hulihee Palace on Kailua Bay was once a summer haven for Hawaiian royalty. The six-room mansion and palm-studded grounds have since become a museum that features the regal Hawaiian lifestyle. Guided tours of original wood furnishings and royal artifacts are offered. On the opposite shore of the Big Island, the bayside town of Hilo was impacted fiercely by earthquake-generated tsunamis in 1946 and 1960. The Pacific Tsunami Museum on Kamehameha Avenue aims to inform the public about tsunami hazards and to prevent future tragedies. Museum exhibits offer scientific explanations of tsunami formation and specific instructions for retreating to high ground during a tsunami threat. Heart-wrenching stories about local islanders of all ages who perished or survived during local surges are shared through written word, original artwork, and audio recordings from witnesses. A handsome hand- crafted wall quilt memorializes local tsunami victims. After strolling through the museum, why not visit the Hilo Farmers Market for a color-burst of fragrant local fruits, vegetables, and flowers? Or pick up some tasty macadamias or celebrated Kona coffee—the true tastes of Paradise. The open-air marketplace operates daily at the corner of Kamehameha Avenue and Mamo Street. Are you ready to visit Hawaii? Today might be the best day to start planning your island-hopping getaway. Aloha!
Hulihee Palace in Kailua-Kona was once the vacation home of Hawaiian royalty.
leave the plantation, indulge in a cool Dole Whip soft serve topped with fresh pineapple chunks. You’ll be glad you did. If you love glorious sandy beaches, the North Shore’s coastline is for you. Begin your beach tour at Waimea Bay Park and head north to Pupukea, Ehukai, and Sunset Beaches, then wander up the coast. Each sandy location offers sightseers something new. Visiting Kauai and the Big Island On the ‘Garden Isle’ of Kauai, the Kauai Museum in Lihue on Rice Street is a captivating jumble of the history, art, and culture of the islands of Kauai and neighboring Nii’hau. Both museum buildings sport lava rock exteriors, reflecting the islands’ volcanic origins. Kahili, brilliant red and gold feathered helmets and capes worn by Hawaiian kings, are particularly fascinating. Heritage Gallery walls are lined with color- drenched portraits of several generations of Hawaiian royals. Hand-carved koa wood bowls, a customary pahu or hula drum, and intricate shell leis demonstrate island traditions. A more contemporary collection includes Hawaiian surfing memorabilia, from surfboards past and present to vintage contest photos to a portrait gallery honoring Hawaii’s primo surfers. The Big Island of Hawaii contains more acreage than all the other islands combined. Its geographic diversity is remarkable, as are the coastal towns of Kailua-Kona and Hilo. Historic Kailua village is a walker’s wonder. Begin at Mokuaikaua Church, Hawaii’s first Christian Church, on Alii Drive. The 200-year-old lava rock and coral structure with koa wood interior is a landmark on the National Register of Historic Places. The church’s 11-foot-tall steeple still scores as the highest point in Kailua-Kona.
Mokuaikaua Church, Hawaii’s first Christian Church.
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Sarasota, An Artsy Beach Town with Flair Feature by Emily Fagan Photos by Emily and Mark Fagan
About halfway down Florida’s Gulf Coast, the city of Sarasota glistens in the sun, a warm and inviting paradise where the beach sand feels like confectioner’s sugar between your toes and turquoise waves splash playfully on the shore. Protected from the open ocean by several barrier peninsulas, or keys, Sarasota provides vacationers with a myriad of ways to relax and have fun, whether in a sophisticated urban setting or in wilder places where nature abounds. Beach Time Sarasota oozes a delicious tropical feel and Siesta Beach, a true beach-lovers delight, is one of the most beautiful beaches we have ever seen. As we made our way toward the alluring aquamarine water, a vast expanse of pure white sand as soft as flour stretched before us and seemed to go on forever to either side. The sand squealed under our feet, boats cruised by in the rich blue water in the distance, and colorful beach umbrellas lined the shore. Sunbathers soaked up the golden rays on blankets and beach chairs, little kids made sandcastles by the water, and bigger kids played volleyball and frisbee. “I never want to leave” I kept thinking to myself. Siesta Beach is that great.
A statue of a familiar World War II image called Unconditional Surrender.
For those who travel with a dog, a trip to nearby Venice Beach is a must. The main beach is very popular for swimming and sunbathing, and we saw lots of people on the Venice Fishing Pier casting their lines. Beyond the fishing pier at the south end of the beach, we found the hot spot for dog lovers: Brohard Paw Park. Families can enjoy a day at the beach here while their pooch plays in the waves and sand and meets some canine friends too. The park is divided to keep smaller dogs and bigger dogs apart. Dog owners who come here tend to be very conscientious about cleaning up after their furry friends too. Downtown Sarasota: Parks, Trails, History and a Farmer’s Market In the heart of the downtown waterfront area, glorious Bayfront Park offers panoramic views and is embraced by a half-mile footpath loop called the Marina Jack Trail. This is a wonderful place to enjoy the outdoors without the surf, sand, and spray of the beach. As we strolled leisurely, we passed palm tree-studded tiki bars, tiny beaches and coves, moored boats, and lots of people walking their dogs or jogging. Everyone wore a smile, and who wouldn’t in this enchanting place? Around the corner, we bumped into an enormous statue of a familiar World War II image called Unconditional Surrender. Featuring a Navy sailor kissing a surprised nurse, this 25-foot-tall statue was inspired by the famous photo taken
The aqua-marine water is mesmerizing at Siesta Beach.
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one time the circus train had 100 cars that housed animals and performers all season long. The circus was so successful that by 1907 they purchased Barnum and Bailey’s Greatest Show on Earth. Sarasota was just a small fishing village at that time, and John and Charles Ringling began buying up property in Sarasota. At one point they owned 25 percent of the town. Most of the circus performers lived in Sarasota when they weren’t touring, and the dwarfs, many of whom played Munchkins in the 1934 movie Wizard of Oz, even had their own neighborhood of smaller homes. We met an elderly resident who fondly remembers watching the circus train depart and return each year. In 1927, after building a palatial estate for himself and his wife on 20 waterfront acres on Sarasota Bay and filling it with artwork by the great European masters, John Ringling moved the circus headquarters from Connecticut to Sarasota. Unfortunately, the Great Depression brought financial calamity. Shortly before his death in 1936, just as he was about to lose
A few streets away from the waterfront, a community Farmer’s Market convenes every Saturday morning.
in New York’s Times Square on the day of the Allied victory over Japan. It expresses all the relief and release our Nation felt when that war finally came to an end. Copies of this statue were erected not only in Sarasota but also on the opposite coast in San Diego where it stands next to the aircraft carrier museum, USS Midway. A few streets away from the waterfront, a community Farmer’s Market convenes every Saturday morning from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. in Sarasota’s historic district at the intersection of Main Street and Lemon Avenue. Beautiful fruits and veggies of all kinds overflow their baskets under dozens of canopies, and homemade breads, bouquets of flowers, handmade soaps, fresh seafood, and gourmet coffee fill the vendors’ stalls for several blocks. If you can’t find what you want at the Farmer’s Market, all the charming boutique shops throw their doors open as well. After walking through this market for several hours and chatting with both shoppers and vendors, we stopped for a cuppa’ joe and a tasty treat at an outdoor table at Pastry Art Café and Dessert. The Ringling - Out of this World. While the beaches, parks, trails, Farmer’s Market, and boutique shops make up the day-to-day fabric of the tourist experience in Sarasota, a trip to the John and Mable Ringling Museum is an epic journey to a different world, and an experience not to be missed. During our stay in Sarasota, we were astonished to learn that Sarasota was once a circus town. Back in 1884, John Ringling and four of his brothers created The Ringing Brothers’ Circus, the first circus to travel the country by rail. At
At The Ringling, a massive courtyard surrounded by the pink-columned facade of the museum is filled with statuary and meticulously pruned landscaping.
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everything, John Ringling donated his mansion and European artwork to the city of Sarasota. His home, which feels like a palace, and his art collection are now part of the John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art, known as The Ringling. This is Florida’s official art museum. Every Monday, admission to portions of the museum is free, and we were thrilled to tour these areas. Walking into the ornate art museum, which is decorated to the hilt in a fanciful way that only a circus man would think to do, we were astonished by the series of 8-foot-tall paintings that covered the towering walls. Created by Flemish Baroque master Peter Paul Rubens in the 1620s, these jaw-dropping paintings are a fitting opening act for this magnificent collection. We wandered from room to room admiring artwork by many of the greatest painters prior to 1900. The grounds of the museum are equally majestic. A massive courtyard surrounded by the pink- columned facade of the museum is filled with statuary and meticulously pruned landscaping.
At the head of these immense gardens stands a replica of Michelangelo’s David between a row of palm trees. The Ringling mansion itself overlooks Sarasota Bay and resembles a castle embellished with fairy-tale turrets and colorful decorations. A massive-patterned marble patio enclosed by stone railings extends from the castle walls to a boat dock on the bay. What a place for an elegant outdoor party. Out back, we found Mable Ringling’s Rose Garden where many varieties of roses were in bloom. We saw just a portion of The Ringling on this trip and want to return to see more. Visitors can purchase a 3-day pass to see the entire estate at leisure, including the Circus Museum, and there’s no doubt it would take that long to see it all. Sarasota is for the Birds. A trip to Jungle Garden made for a fun afternoon excursion. Finding ourselves in the middle of
Views of The Ringling, including the John and Mable Ringling Museum.
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