T echnically the word “Highlands” shouldn’t be capitalized unless talking about the council area. But Scotland’s famously heathery hills, crags and mountains evoke such emotion, we’ll break the rule. History buffs and lovers of romantic TV programs from Outlander to Hamish Macbeth stifle the more famous sites during tourist season. So what! The Highlands tumble across over 25,000 square kilometres. Hikers can visit dozens of times and never tread the same path twice. Recently for 3 ½ days, I visited and explored the Highlands solo around the town of Aberfeldy, Perthshire. DAY 1: “Burn” is a Scots noun for a biggish stream. Around 1:30, I arrived later than expected at the burnside cottage belonging to my wife’s relatives (thank you!). After a wrong turn at Perth, I ended up following a longer, slower route supplied by phone. I sat briefly and listened to the burn burble opposite the neatly trimmed Aberfeldy Golf Club. Ahh, exhale and destress. Why? 1. Most Highland roads are narrow, hilly and regu- larly bending. Imagine a state of constant beauty-
drenched surprise. 2. Many roads are flanked by thick stone walls inches from the curb. An ill-timed sneeze could remove the mirror from your door. So, add a touch of disquiet to that constant beauty. 3. All roads require you to drive on the opposite side and 18-wheelers literally driving lambs to slaugh- ter abound. 4. So, imagine a state of constant surprise, edged with generous lashings of anxiety. Arriving 45 minutes later than planned, I was ready for a calming sit. Then a walk. I spent the afternoon exploring Aberfeldy, plus its gentler hillside hikes and lazy riverside paths. The early spring sun overcame the clouds and it was a joy to simply stroll, then sit, read and doze on a public bench beside the historic stone bridge bordering town. An impressive hunk of architecture, Wade’s Bridge dates back almost 300 years, yet still relevantly fits into the local highway system. Constructed to ease the movement of armies against the Jacobite Rebellion, today the bridge regulates drivers to one lane at a time with timed traffic lights. The evening’s entertainment included a visit to the local pub on the town square, then the tiny Turkish
BURNSIDE COTTAGE
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