COAST MAGAZINE SUMMER 2023
WATERFALLS, WINERIES, AND THE AMISH
THE MAGIC ISLE
THREE AWESOME SOUTHERN AQUARIUMS
SUMMER DESTINATIONS
Brownsville Winter Haven Resort Brownsville, Texas
Colorado Heights Camping Resort Monument, Colorado
Millwood Landing Golf & RV Resort Ashdown, Arkansas
CONTENTS
TRAVEL 9 WATERFALLS, WINERIES, AND THE AMISH Story and Photos by: Emily and Mark Fagan
CHAIRMAN OF CAMPING WORLD HOLDINGS Marcus Lemonis CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Matthew Wagner SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT OF GOOD SAM & LOYALTY Will Colling COAST TO COAST Bruce Hoster CCRPresident@coastresorts.com MARKETING DIRECTOR Kristin Moser EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Dee Whited ART DIRECTOR Aubry Meyer BUSINESS MANAGER Christina Din MARKETING COORDINATOR MaryEllen Foster COAST MEMBER SERVICES 64 Inverness Drive East Englewood, Colorado 80112 800-368-5721 info@coastresorts.com COAST TO COAST WEBSITE CoastResorts.com
14 THE MAGIC ISLE
Story and Photos by Richard Varr 20 THREE AWESOME SOUTHERN AQUARIUMS Feature and Photos from Paula Loehr
COAST FACEBOOK PAGE Facebook.com/CoastResorts
VOLUME 42, NUMBER 3. Coast to Coast (ISSN 1093-3581) is published quarterly for $14 per year as part of annual membership fees, by Coast to Coast Resorts, 64 Inverness Drive E., Englewood, Colorado 80112. Coast to Coast Resorts assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manu scripts or artwork. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced by any method without prior written consent of the publisher. ©2023 Camp Coast to Coast, LLC. Coast wing logo is a registered trademark of Camp Coast to Coast, LLC. The GOOD SAM ICON, and Dream. Plan. Go. are registered trademarks of Good Sam Enterprises, LLC and used with permission. Unauthorized use of Coast’s or Good Sam’s trademarks is expressly prohibited. All rights reserved. PRINTED IN THE USA. COVER PHOTO: EMILY AND MARK FAGAN CTC63211 - 062023
DEPARTMENTS 4 RESORT UPDATES 27 RV REVIEW
RESORT PROFILES 6 MILLWOOD LANDING GOLF & RV RESORT Ashdown, Arkansas 7 COLORADO HEIGHTS CAMPING RESORT Monument, Colorado 8 BROWNSVILLE WINTER HAVEN RESORT Brownsville, Texas
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“ IF YOU’RE NOT HAPPY, I’M NOT HAPPY. ” "If you're happy, I'm happy."
Need anything? I’m here to help. CALL MY OFFICE 866.232.8790 or Email me at MarcusVIP@goodsam.com Call my office 866-232-8790 or email me at MarcusVIP@goodsam.com I'm here to help.
Marcus Lemonis Chairman and CEO
Marcus Lemonis Chairman and CEO Camping World and Good Sam
Camping World and Good Sam
CTC60136 - 0221
COAST TO COAST MAGAZINE SUMMER 2023 | 3
RESORT UPDATES The 2023 Coast to Coast Resort Directory is packed with everything you need to navigate the network of Coast to Coast Resorts and Coast Good Neighbor Parks. To keep members up-to-date, each issue of Coast magazine includes any updates that have occurred since the last issue.
CLASSIC RESORT TERMINATION
Washington Rimrock Meadows, Ephrata (page 170)
DELUXE RESORT TERMINATION
Massachusetts Quinebaug Cove Campground, Brimfield (page 131)
DELUXE RESORT UPDATE
GOOD NEIGHBOR PARK TERMINATIONS
Texas Marina Village Resort, Trinity (page 162) New email address: info@marina-village.com
Florida Road Runner Travel Resort, Fort Pierce (page 188)
DELUXE RESORT NAME CHANGE
Upriver Campground RV Resort, North Fort Myers (page 189)
Oklahoma Lakeshore Bliss Resort, Afton (page 151) Formerly Pelican Landing
NEW GOOD NEIGHBOR PARKS
PREMIER RESORT UPDATE
Arizona Villa Alameda RV Resort, 3547 S Ave SE, Yuma, 85365. Phone: (928) 344-8081, Email: villarvresort@aol.com, Website: www.villaalamedarvresort.com. RV notations: 2023 Coast rate $39.60. Rate includes 2 adults and full hook-ups. Season: Year-round. Texas Cowtown RV Park, 7000 East I-20, Aledo, 76008. Phone (817) 441-7878, Email cowtownrv@lacklandholdings.com, Website www.cowtownrvpark.com. RV notations: Coast rate $41.25. Rate includes 2 adults and full hookups. Additional charges: Add’l adult $2, add’l child $2. Season: Year-round.
Colorado Colorado Heights Camping Resort, Monument (page 123) New phone number: (719) 481-4505
RESORT UPDATES
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Hidden Grove RV Resort, 19300 E US Hwy 82, Honey Grove, 75446. Phone (855) 723-4140, Email hiddengrove3@gmail.com, Website www.hiddengroveresort.com. RV notations: Coast rate 15% discount. Rate includes 2 adults and full hookups. Additional charges: Tax 8.3%. Season: Year-round.
NEW GOOD NEIGHBOR PARKS
Royal Oaks RV Park, 1155 FM 1725, Cleveland, 77328. Phone (346) 414-1523,
Email info@royaloaksrv.com, Website www.royaloaksrv.com. RV notations: Coast rate $34. Rate includes 2 adults, full hook-ups. Additional charges: Tax 8.25%. Season: Year-round.
Iron Horse RV Resort, 2049 I-10, Weimar, 78962. Phone (979) 263-4305, Email Legacy1@cvctx.com,
Yellow Rose RV Resort, 14445 White Settlement Rd, Fort Worth, 76108. Phone (817) 229-8665, Email yellowroservresort@gmail.com, Website www.yellowroservresort.com. RV notations: Coast rate $67.50. Rate includes 2 adults and full hookups. Additional charges: Add’l adult $5. Season: Year-round.
Website www.ironhorservtexas.com. RV notations: Coast discount 10%.
Rate includes 2 adults per site, full hook-ups. Additional charges: Add’l adult $5, add’l child $5. Guests enjoy a 20% discount at our High
Fashion Boutique. Season: Year-round.
RESORT UPDATES
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RESORT TYPE: Premier LOCATION: Ashdown, AR SEASON: Mar 1 to Nov 1 WEBSITE: www.oceancanyon.com
MILLWOOD LANDING GOLF & RV RESORT
Anything but run of the mill
Millwood Landing Golf & RV Resort in Ashdown is a top Arkansas RV park destination, whether it’s for a weekend or an extended vacation. In addition to dozens of organized and pick- up activities, imagine playing 18 holes of golf without ever leaving the gates of the resort. Once set up at your spacious RV site, you can choose to sit by the pool, shoot some basketball, play tennis, or let the kids play on the playground while you relax. The park amenities include two fishing ponds, a large clubhouse, sports courts, swimming pool, and horseshoe pits. Seasonally there’s a restaurant onsite to make it even more of a vacation. The resort can even host special occasions such as weddings, family reunions, retreats, birthday parties, and golf tournaments. Millwood Landing Golf & RV is adjacent to 35,000-acre Millwood Lake. Whether you enjoy boating, fishing, swimming, picnicking, or hiking, Millwood Lake has an activity for you.
With an abundance of food and varied habitats, multitudes of birds are attracted year-round to Millwood Lake. Birders from across the nation come to Millwood to get a glimpse of a wide variety of birds that include over 333 species reported within a 7.5-mile area. A flock of white pelicans make their home year-round on the lake, while bald eagles, golden-winged warblers, gulls, and several species of ducks are among the birds making an appearance throughout the year. Millwood has 12 recreation areas around the lake. Maybe fishing in a 35,000-acre lake is intimidating, but don’t fret. Enjoy two easy to access fishing ponds onsite at Millwood Landing that are stocked with a wide array of fish. The fish are always biting. You may have the opportunity to rent one of the cabins overlooking the ponds. Offsite, you’re just 35 minutes from Texarkana, 1.5 hours from Shreveport, and 2.5 hours from Little Rock.
RESORT PROFILES
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RESORT TYPE: Premier LOCATION: Monument, CO SEASON: Year-round WEBSITE: www.coloradoheights.com
COLORADO HEIGHTS CAMPING RESORT
Gorgeous weather in the beautiful Rocky Mountains
Colorado Heights Camping Resort is located in Monument, Colorado with a panoramic view of the Front Range of the Rockies and Pikes Peak. In addition to the view at 7,360 feet elevation, the campground is situated on 28 pine-covered acres. Another plus is that you’re just minutes from Colorado Springs, the U.S. Air Force Academy, and Cheyenne Mountain Zoo. Denver, churches, restaurants, and shops are just minutes away. To the north, visit Denver with everything that a big city has to offer. To the south, check out Colorado Springs, with its popular downtown, the Pioneer Museum and Acacia Park. This campground is situated in a beautiful area that provides excellent accommodations and many activities. Enjoy the private fishing pond, putt-putt, swimming pool, jacuzzi, recreation room, and even a kids’ playground area. You’ll have plenty to do here, but if you want to go see the attractions, you’re only minutes away from the sites. The weather is gorgeous any time of year, and you will want to return to the beautiful
Rocky Mountains again and again. Located just a few short miles south of Monument, the Air Force Academy is a must- see local attraction if you appreciate impressive modern architecture and beautiful outdoor spaces. Publicly accessible trails are regularly maintained to provide hikers, mountain bikers, and equestrians with a great experience. Don’t miss the Garden of the Gods. This stunning National Natural Landmark is located 22 minutes south of Monument. Featuring incredible views of towering sandstone rock formations set against the majestic backdrop of Pikes Peak, this amazing outdoor space includes a nature center, museum, maintained hiking trails, and picnic benches. Spend a day at Cheyenne Mountain Zoo, America’s only mountainside zoo. The zoo features endangered species in mountain exhibits that resemble their natural habitat. You can walk the hilly terrain or catch the tram at one of seven stops.
RESORT PROFILES
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RESORT TYPE: Classic LOCATION: Brownsville, TX SEASON: Year-round WEBSITE: www.winterhavenresort.com
The Rio Grande Valley is the perfect area to find your special winter haven. Brownsville Winter Haven Resort is a gated 55+ community nestled among towering, majestic palm trees. Head your rig toward the warm weather, the beaches of South Padre Island, vibrant Mexican culture, a rich historical heritage, wildlife sanctuaries, outdoor recreation, and an active social life of activities and events at this resort in Brownsville, Texas. Staying fit at Brownsville Winter Haven is easy because you can get involved in swimming, tennis, waterball, pickleball, shuffleboard, and bocce ball. You can feel safe taking a leisurely walk or bike ride. The swimming pool provides not only fun in the water, but also has some healing properties with aqua aerobics, arthritis aqua aerobics and muscle toning. The resort is close to the Gulf of Mexico with its emerald surf, glistening sand beaches, and bountiful marine life. There are three main community buildings throughout the resort, and each has its own amenities, which include heated pools, bathrooms and showers. BROWNSVILLE WINTER HAVEN RESORT Located in the southern tip of Texas
For less energetic endeavors, check out the book clubs, chess lessons, creative writing lessons, guitar lessons, and various other craft classes. Spiritually enjoy the chapel services, inspiration book club, Bible studies, choir, and chapel services. Inside the central clubhouse there are many options for activities including a ballroom, kitchen, lending library, and billiard room with two pool tables. There are also meeting rooms, card and game rooms, and a coin-operated laundromat. Brownsville is a truly international city where two cultures meet to create a unique land of exotic sounds, flavors, history, and natural beauty. Winter Haven Resort is dedicated to the Winter Texan and retiree. The SpaceX South Texas launch site is located near Boca Chica Beach, less than 10 miles from the Brownsville city limits. SpaceX stated that the launch site would be used exclusively for SpaceX’s next-generation launch vehicle, Starship.
RESORT PROFILES
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WATERFALLS, WINERIES, AND THE AMISH
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Waterfalls, Wineries, and the Amish Heart of the Finger Lakes Text by: Emily Fagan Photos by: Emily and Mark Fagan
The Finger Lakes are a collection of long, narrow lakes in upstate New York that lie side-by-side, like fingers on a hand, glistening in the sun. Known for their natural beauty and endless recreational opportunities, they are a beloved destination, and we were eager to take our RV there. From charming waterfront towns to glorious hiking trails to elegant wineries to stunning waterfalls, we found there is no shortage of fun things to do. Watkins Glen Seneca Lake, the largest and deepest of the Finger Lakes, is in the heart of this region, and at its far southern shore is one of the most spectacular canyons we’ve ever seen: Watkins Glen. Pencil thin Glen Creek follows an exquisite path through craggy rock walls, filling beautiful turquoise pools and pouring down waterfalls on its way. The Gorge Trail is a one-mile hike alongside the creek that is utterly breathtaking at every turn. We arrived in the rain and intermittent downpours continued throughout our visit. But it turned out that a warm and rainy summer day may be the best way to see this heavenly oasis
because Watkins Glen is all about waterfalls. The water was flowing fast, and in some places the very rocks themselves seemed to be weeping. Cavern Cascade is a tall and thin waterfall that flows right over the trail, creating a watery tunnel that hikers can walk under. Further on, Rainbow Falls creates a jaw-dropping vista as a myriad of falls spill from one aquamarine pool into the next, all framed by vivid green leaves and dark cliffs. Taughannock Falls and Ithaca Falls Not to be outdone by the gorgeous waterfalls on Seneca Lake, neighboring Cayuga Lake boasts the tallest single drop waterfall east of the Rockies: Taughannock Falls. The water plunges 215 feet, nearly 50 feet more than Niagra Falls. An ideal viewing area opposite this majestic waterfall gives visitors a full top-to-bottom view framed by trees. We visited in mid-summer when the trees were green, but an autumn visit would frame this outstanding view in gold and red. The mile long Rim Trail encircles the gorge and takes in thrilling views along the way. At the far southern tip of Cayuga Lake, Ithaca Falls is the focal point of the Ithaca Falls Natural
Watkins Glen in the rain.
The rain doesn’t stop visitors to Watkins Glen.
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Area. Forming a patchwork quilt of ripples down a cliff wall, the bottom of this waterfall is a shallow stream. As we admired the power and breadth of the cascade from a distance downstream, kids and parents played near the water’s edge at the base. What a wonderful way to cool off on a hot summer’s day Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery and Brewery Waterfalls are just part of the beauty of the Finger Lakes. This area is also renowned as a wine-making region, and wineries dot the landscape about every mile or so. For wine lovers, there is an endless array of fine wines to sample and elegant winery estates to visit. And for the serious connoisseur, there are Wine Trails that you can follow from vineyard to vineyard on Seneca Lake, Cayuga Lake, and Keuka Lake. We stopped by Wagner Vineyards Estate Winery about halfway up the eastern shore of Seneca Lake and were delighted to find that it is not only a winery but a brewery as well. Just choose the entrance door that suits your palate and your fancy. We were in the mood for a craft beer, so we chose the brewery side. Out on the back patio deck we discovered a bevy of young women enjoying the second of their 10-stop bachelorette party on the Seneca Wine Trail. They all wore matching t-shirts that stated their role in the wedding, from Bride to Maid of Honor to Bridesmaid, and they were whooping it up while their driver snoozed in the limo in the parking lot. I’m sure our beers were tasty, but the memory forever emblazoned in our minds is that group of beautiful girls having the time of their lives.
It was delightful seeing the many different carriages the Amish drive around.
This horse-drawn wagon displays a danger sign to alert motorists that they may be going a bit slower. Notice the straw hats the boys have on.
Wagner Vineyards also hosts an outdoor summer music series on Friday nights at the Vantage Point. You can watch the sunset while enjoying a picnic with a wine flight or bottle of beer while listening to live music. Amish Country Leaving the modern sophistication of estate wines and bachelorette parties behind, we made our way to the small town of Ovid in the heart of Amish Country. Picturesque family farms replaced the graceful winery estates as we drove between Seneca and Cayuga Lakes, and soon we saw horses and buggies on the road with us. Two-seater open air buggies are used for courting by young Amish men and, in many ways, owning a courting buggy offers them the same thrill and independence as any teenager’s first car. I had a chance to talk with an Amish boy about his new courting buggy, and he proudly showed off its steel tires and drum brakes. It cost him about $3,000, but that didn’t include the engine, of course. He told me horses can cost another $3,000 for a fast one or a little less for a slow one. And of course, like many teens do, he’d saved up for a fast one.
We enjoyed a stop by Wagner Winery and Brewery.
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A friend we visited in the area has many Amish neighbors, and we got to know a few during our stay. We were surprised to see an Amish dairy farm that supplies milk to an organic yogurt manufacturer using mechanical milking machines. Likewise, an Amish chicken farmer watches his egg yield so closely that when it dropped a few percentage points he replaced all his chicken feed under the assumption the feed was bad. Happily, his yield returned to normal. Naively, we had assumed the cows would be milked by hand on milking stools and the eggs would be gathered in baskets and not scientifically monitored. We had a chance to invite two Amish women to see the inside of our fifth-wheel trailer. The Amish don’t power their homes with electricity because it would make their society dependent on the larger society around them. However, they still power their homes and lights, and all with propane. So our RV’s propane furnace, hot water heater, and refrigerator were all familiar appliances to them The Seneca Produce Auction is held twice a week during the summer months in the town of Romulus. This gathering gave us a fabulous glimpse of Amish commerce and life. It is held in a huge barn type of building with high ceilings, massive doors, and a concrete floor. Farmers bring their produce in large crates, which are lined up on pallets. Amish farmers selling their goods and both Amish and non-Amish buyers stood around the rows of produce as an auctioneer rattled off prices and winning bids at breakneck speed in what was, to us, incomprehensible gibberish. We watched in awe as the crowd moved from one crate to the next and the auctioneer sold them off to buyers who had raised a hand or winked or given some other indication of their price. It was fast and efficient, and in no time the crowd had dwindled to just a few people as everyone completed their transactions and left. Non-Amish men drove forklifts to load the crates onto flatbed trailers. Some flatbeds were hauled away by trucks but most were hauled by a horse. We even saw one double-tow where a horse pulled an enclosed family buggy with a flatbed
The town of Ovid is home to many Amish farms.
Boating is a happy pastime in Seneca Falls.
trailer ladened with produce hitched up behind it. All the Amish men wore black pants with suspenders and the women wore long dresses while the children went barefoot in the summer heat. It was an experience we’ll never forget. Seneca Falls At the far north end of Seneca Lake, the town of Seneca Falls is a charming collection of traditional brick buildings that open onto the road as they would in any town. Behind these buildings, however, you get an entirely different view of the town. Seneca Falls is actually a boat- in destination for those fortunate enough to own a boat on the Finger Lakes. Boats of all sizes were tied up along the canal on the back side of town. Large cabin cruisers, barges, and small power boats all had a place on the waterfront. Although we love the freedom our RV gives us, a boat would be another great way to explore the Finger Lakes.
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Today, Seneca Falls is a quaint Main Street town, but it had an important role in America’s feminist history when it was first settled. In 1848, 300 men and women gathered for a “Woman’s Rights Convention” where they drew up a document of resolutions called the “Declaration of Sentiments.” Sixty-eight women and 32 men signed it. Three years later, Amelia Bloomer (who invented the namesake undergarments for women), Susan B. Anthony, and Elizabeth Cady Stanton got together in Seneca Falls. Today, a lovely statue of them stands on the spot where they met, and the National Park Service has a Women’s Rights Museum in town. From learning history to sampling craft beer and wine to experiencing Amish culture as well as scenery that is out of this world, we loved our stay in the Finger Lakes and we’re sure you will, too.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: Watkins Glen https://parks.ny.gov/parks/watkinsglen/ maps.aspx Taughannock Falls State Park https://parks.ny.gov/parks/ taughannockfalls https://www.gofingerlakes.org/locations/ taughannock-falls-state-park/ Ithaca Falls Natural Area https://nyfalls.com/waterfalls/ithaca-falls/ Women’s Rights National Historic Park https://www.nps.gov/wori/index.htm Seneca Produce Auction in Romulus https://senecacountycce.org/food-family/ local-food-within-your-reach/seneca- produce-auction Wagner Vineyards https://wagnervineyards.com/ Map showing the locations of these places: https://goo.gl/maps/8tipsdS8HeJZCxwZ9
A popular pastime is to attend the Seneca Produce Auction, where bountiful produce is auctioned.
This statue commemorates the Woman’s Rights Convention and later meeting of Amelia Bloomer, Susan B. Anthony, and Elizabeth Cady Stanton.
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THE MAGIC ISLE
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The Magic Isle Catalina Island—like Southern California untouched Story and Photos by Richard Varr
Cubillo, noting the 12-story structure actually never was a gambling hall but instead had a giant dance floor with such events broadcast live on the radio. “And what did they do when 6,000 people needed a drink?” he quips. This is my first visit to Catalina Island, sort of an extension of the rugged coast and scenic hilly landscape of sunny Southern California—dry and mountainous desert terrain with cactus and tumbleweed-like brush inland, but also with its harborside town of Avalon and its colorful cityscape. With few cars on the island, golf carts instead sputter through Avalon’s narrow streets. Shops and open-air restaurants line the mostly pedestrian main drag, Crescent Avenue, which faces the calm waterfront with views of the iconic casino at almost every turn. “On the left-hand side, the home with the American Flag is where Marilyn Monroe used to live before she was discovered to become a movie star,” points out Cubillo as the tour continues. “It’s a small town, everybody talks.” Although used in the 19th century for cattle ranching and mining, and occupied by Union troops during the Civil War, it wasn’t until the late 1880s that the island, just 22 miles from the mainland, became a resort destination. But in 1915, a fire razed many of Avalon’s new hotels and development to the ground and thus paved the way to begin building modern Avalon. That’s because in 1919, chewing gum magnate William Wrigley, Jr. purchased the island. “What you see and enjoy in Avalon today is really his vision,” says Gail Fornasiere, Deputy Director of External Affairs for the Catalina Island Museum for Art & History. “He was a lover of birds and he really gave back to the people who bought his gum. He wanted them to have an island vacation. The island was kind of a utopian dream for everyone, not just the rich.” “He was super gregarious. They say he would smile for a photographer two blocks away,”
Our tour bus chugs down the curving road alongside parched green bushes and gangly treetops when we reach a clearing. We’re high on a bluff and I find myself skipping a breath, agape in awe. “How would you like to wake up every morning with a beautiful view like this?” asks Carlos Cubillo, our driver and tour guide. I see boats gently bobbing in a half-moon harbor atop Caribbean-like, aquamarine surf and surrounded by a mountainous landscape. At the harbor’s edge, the red-roofed and rounded building with its imposing columns gives it all away—the unmistakable landmark of this famous American getaway. “In 1929, the Catalina Casino was the tallest building in L.A. County. Six thousand people could fit up there. Imagine 6,000 people dancing in the big ballroom with the big orchestras, Glenn Miller and Benny Goodman,” continues
A view of the Catalina Casino from the water.
View of Avalon from a nearby hill.
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Fornasiere continues while taking me on a tour of the museum, pointing out how Wrigley was a master marketer about how to attract visitors year-round. He invited his hometown Chicago Cubs—which he would soon own—to the island in 1920, kicking off what would be the team’s new spring training location from 1921 to 1951. Wrigley built new hotels and attractions, including a cage for exotic birds from all over the world. He built two steamships to help bring tourists to Catalina. And in 1929, his new art deco Casino opened with its huge domed ballroom and cinema, one of the first to accommodate sound movies. The museum highlights how Hollywood soon came to Catalina Island, its seaside setting and hilly and mountainous landscape a perfect backdrop for the 300 or so movies filmed there, including classics Mutiny on the Bounty with Clark Gable in 1935, and Chinatown and Jaws filmed in 1974. “Hollywood used Catalina to be whatever they wanted, so they turned us into Tahiti, the American frontier, and everything in between,” says Fornasiere.
Avalon was also home to a 16-year-old Marilyn Monroe for just six months after marrying her first husband, a merchant marine who was stationed on the island during World War II. “We think this was a pivotal time for her because she found herself not in a bad home situation anymore,” notes Fornasiere. “She kind of figured out her ‘Marilyn walk’ and was surrounded by soldiers.” To see some of the rugged interior of this island, 22 miles long and eight miles wide, I hop on a driving tour along the dusty and winding roads. “We’re looking for some four-legged locals,” announces tour guide Reyna Fino in reference to the 150 or so bison that roam there. It all started when 14 animals were brought for the filming of the silent Western movie The Vanishing American in 1924. “When ready to film a bison stampede, they opened the corral and the bison took off in 14 different directions,” explains Fino. “They never got their shot of the stampeding bison. They tried to round them up but couldn’t find them.”
Catalina Casino up close.
Catalina Island Museum for Art and History.
Buffalo still roam in the hills around Avalon. Photo courtesy of Visit Catalina Island.
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Backpacking and hiking are popular sports on Catalina. Photo courtesy of Visit Catalina Island.
The entrance to the Wrigley Memorial and Botanic Garden.
80-foot-high tower dominates the memorial, with the concrete structures emblazoned with marble and glazed tiles from the island’s yesteryear tile factory dating back to 1927, but only in operation for 10 years. Original tiles also line Avalon walls and storefronts, especially along the waterfront area. Back at the harbor, central Green Pleasure Pier is where tour operators sell tickets for fishing adventures and other aquatic activities including glass bottom boats and submarine rides to see marine life in the island’s exceptionally clear waters. In fact, it was a glass bottom boat ride that inspired the artist John Gabriel Beckman, who created the murals for Grauman’s Chinese Theater in Los Angeles, to paint the island’s popular mermaid mural on the outside of the Casino’s theater in 1929—a caricature often seen on local souvenirs and t-shirts. “He came up with this amazing mermaid that was sort of the keeper of the underwater,” says Fornasiere. “It enhances that art deco, early California mythical kind of magic that this island is.” To get to the island, Catalina Express has a fleet of eight slick and fast vessels, the larger ones two-hulled catamaran watercraft. The ferry service offers up to 30 departures a day from three Los Angeles area mainland ports, at San Pedro, Long Beach and Dana Point. I took the hour-long ferry from the Long Beach waterfront which conveniently has an RV camp, the Golden Shore RV Resort, in walking distance to the port for RVers who are wanting to visit the island for a day or stay overnight or longer.
The Catalina Tiles can be seen on many of the older structures.
Through the years, the herd grew and has been managed by the Catalina Island Conservancy, created in 1972 by Philip Wrigley, son of William Wrigley Jr. “He donated 88 percent of the island to become the Conservancy for good reason,” explains Fornasiere. “The family really wanted the island to remain in some way how they enjoyed it.” Thanks to the Conservancy, Catalina Island is a hiker’s paradise with more than 165 miles of trails weaving throughout the hilly landscape, many with splendid island and ocean views. The multi-day, 38.5 mile Trans-Catalina Trail is for serious hikers and links five campgrounds as it ascends hills and stretches from Avalon to Two Harbors and beyond. A popular diving, camping, and beachside village, Two Harbors sits along an isthmus on the island’s west side and is reached by hiking or by water, with boat tours from Avalon or by ferry from the mainland. A hike more to my liking and stamina is the 30- or 40-minute walk up Avalon Canyon to the Wrigley Memorial & Botanical Gardens, also reached by the Catalina Trolley or a taxi. Cactus and other desert plants native to the island line the walkways of the Botanical Gardens, started in 1935 by William Wrigley Jr.’s wife Ada. An
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While on Catalina Island, I stayed two nights at the Avalon Hotel, a centrally located boutique hotel just half a block off Crescent Avenue. Rooms have private balconies, some facing the ocean and harbor, while the views of the harbor and surrounding hills from the outside rooftop lounge and bar are particularly stunning. A continental breakfast is served outside in the shaded courtyard. The ferry ride from Long Beach departs along Queensway Bay, passing the city’s scenic waterfront with the retail shops and restaurants of Shoreline Village, and with splendid views of the Queen Mary ocean liner on the other side. The 1930s vessel with its signature black hull and red smokestacks recently reopened after being closed for more than two years due to the pandemic and needed repairs. Visitors can tour the Ship Model Gallery, Winston Churchill- themed exhibition, boiler rooms and even take a ghost tour. The onboard hotel includes 347 original first class staterooms and suites, restaurants, and venues for meetings and weddings. About 25 miles east of Long Beach, the city of Santa Ana has one of Orange County’s and Southern California’s most noted museums. With a permanent collection of more than 90,000 objects, the world-class Bowers Museum showcases art and artifacts from pre-Columbian Mesoamerica, Native American cultures, African and Oceanic art, including from Micronesia, Melanesia, and Polynesia. While visiting, the
macabre Spirits and Headhunters exhibition catches my eye with its three actual human heads, reminding me of scenes from movies where jungle explorers encounter savage tribesmen. They’re skulls remodeled with clay, pigments, and human hair, recreated to look like the deceased person and used in ceremonies. “Headhunting was a way of terrorizing tribal communities, to define land, or gain territory or power of some sort,” explains Bower Museum docent Martha Morrison. “Their belief system was that the head was the center of the person, the content of the wisdom and their soul. So the heads were really important not only as a way of headhunting and defining territory, but also to pay homage to an ancestor.” Another museum highlight includes the art and artifacts of the area’s history, from the baskets and pottery of Southern California Coastal Indians, and that from the subsequent 18th- through early 20th-century incursion of missionaries and ranchers bringing their religious icons, wagons and even a brandy still. Artists’ eyes captured images from this period as seen in the museum’s many paintings.
Bowers Museum macabre Spirits and Headhunters exhibition with three actual human heads.
Bowers Museum permanent exhibits of African and Oceanic art.
Bowers Museum includes objects from Micronesia, Melanesia, and Polynesia.
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Santa Ana is also home to its small but popular zoo of the same name at Prentice Park. It opened in 1952 on land donated by local businessman Joseph Prentice with the promise of showcasing primates. “He made a unique stipulation in the actual deed that the zoo had to have 50 monkeys,” explains zoo Director Ethan Fisher. They include Brown-Headed Spider monkeys, White-Faced Saki and, as the name implies, the Black Howler monkeys known for their deep guttural screams. “You come to the zoo sometimes in the morning and you can hear them vocalizing,” notes Fisher. “It’s like you’re on vacation in Costa Rica.” And for the first time I see a giant anteater, the size of an extremely large dog. The zoo’s new exhibit featuring underwater viewing of South American river otters opens summer 2023. I can’t leave Orange County without taking a short drive north to Yorba Linda, to visit the Richard Nixon Presidential Library & Museum. I sit at the former president’s replica desk in an exact replica of his Oval Office and listen to snippets from his many phone conversations including
Richard Nixon’s boyhood home.
the Watergate scandal’s “Smoking Gun” tape and excerpts from his televised farewell speech. I walk through the actual Marine One helicopter that whisked Nixon and wife Pat away from the White House on his very last day in office. Also on the grounds are his boyhood home and burial site. As I leave California, I recall walking along Crescent Avenue to Catalina’s ferry terminal, passing storefronts decorated with the island’s tiles. I glanced across the harbor to see the Casino now aglow in the waning sunlight of early evening. “It’s often called the magic isle,” I recall Fornasiere telling me. “It’s like Southern California untouched.”
Richard Nixon Presidential Library & Museum.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: www.visitcatalinaisland.com www.catalinaexpress.com www.goldenshorervresort.com
www.travelsantaana.com www.orangecounty.net
Replica of the Oval Office at the Richard Nixon Presidential Library and Museum.
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THREE AWESOME SOUTHERN AQUARIUMS
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Three Awesome Southern Aquariums Off the Beaten Path Feature and Photos from Paula Loehr Have you ever noticed that less can be more in terms of traveling and touring enjoyment? Less traffic, less hustle-bustle, less waiting in lines, lower entry fees, and smaller crowds are always positive circumstances for travelers. Choosing to visit towns and attractions off the beaten path can bring surprising rewards. Consider, for example, the recent experiences of my RVing crew. None of us ever met a winding rural road we didn’t like, so lately we are favoring country camping locales. And fortunately, while exploring some less-traveled destinations, we stumbled upon three awesome out-of-the- way aquariums in the quieter corners of three Southern states—Alabama, Georgia, and Florida. Alabama Aquarium at the Dauphin Island Sea Lab, Dauphin Island, Alabama It’s difficult to imagine a more picturesque scene than the seaside boardwalk entryway to the Alabama Aquarium. Ms. MayMay, a charming blue and white wooden boat that resembles a supersized tub toy, salutes you from her landlocked position. On the other side of the walkway, a true-to-life sea turtle replica holds steady on his perch in the sand. And the surrounding seascapes in the distance are nothing short of breathtaking. The aquarium’s grounds are nestled at the end of the line in the exquisite Gulf Coast setting of Dauphin Island. It’s a 17-mile-long barrier island where salty breezes make green gulf- side grasses sway while sandy white beaches and swirling teal blue waters provide a picture- perfect backdrop. In “The Sunset Capital of Alabama,” the area’s extraordinary natural beauty is complemented by an easy-does-it, almost sleepy vibe among local folks. You might even feel like you are stepping back in time to a less frazzled world. Dauphin Island offers a beach-bound reprieve from day-to-day stresses that we can all benefit from during today’s challenging times.
The aquarium grounds are nestled in the exquisite natural coastal setting of Dauphin Island.
When you set your Dauphin Island itinerary, think in terms of drifting away to lighthouse tours, dolphin watches, and ferry rides. How about a carefree morning spent biking or birding, followed by a lazy afternoon on the beach, topped off with a fresh seafood supper? Concerning the origins of Alabama Aquarium at the Dauphin Island Sea Lab, the lab was initially opened in 1971 to provide marine science education programs for Alabama’s colleges. The organization has since expanded its outreach to all Alabama students from kindergarten through university levels. The lab’s spinoff public aquarium, established in 1998 as The Estuarium, focuses on Mobile Bay, the fourth largest river mouth system in the United States. Mobile’s expansive estuary encompasses four interacting habitats—the Tensaw River Delta, Mobile Bay, Barrier Islands (including Dauphin), and the Northern Gulf of Mexico. All four estuarian environments are effectively represented in the Lionfish with alternating stripes, polka dots and wing-like fins are one of the most outrageous- looking species on display at Alabama Aquarium.
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spacious Exhibit Hall, at the Stingray Touch Pool, and on the Living Marsh Boardwalk. All in all, the aquarium’s displays contain more than 30,000 gallons of water in 31 tanks that function as homes for 100-plus marine species. One of the center’s largest presentations features the great variety of flora and fauna within the 289-square-mile Mobile River Delta. The open water and tidal swamps of the delta’s wetlands provide homes for 131 distinct types of fish as well as 250 resident and migrant bird species. But bigger isn’t necessarily better. In one of the center’s smaller exhibits, you might find it impossible to resist the advances of an adorable little freshwater turtle as he paddles around his tank, seemingly smiling and waving hello to passersby. Likewise, don’t miss peeking at the lion fish with their alternating stripes, polka dots, and tendrilled wing-like fins. They are likely the most outrageous looking residents onsite. A vibrantly painted interactive mural depicting Mobile’s essential sargassum seaweed community is a visual highlight in the aquarium’s dark room. Illuminated plant and animal life from Alabama’s underwater forest, crowd-pleaser orange clown fish, and an exotic crescent grunter—a fish from the other side of the world who showed up inexplicably in Mobile Bay—are other interesting dark room elements. Unique seashore-themed artistic touches like the upcycled mosaic window coverings (made entirely of multi-colored plastic bottle caps) enhance the overall visual allure of the exceptional Alabama Aquarium. Georgia Sea Turtle Center, Jekyll Island, Georgia In sync with Jekyll Island’s unspoiled landscapes, the welcome sign at Georgia Sea Turtle Center is framed naturally by a jumble of fringy palms and mossy live oaks. The center’s solid brick primary building has a massive mosaic turtle motif imbedded in the sidewalk that leads to the entrance of the exhibit gallery. As you navigate the sloped sidewalk to approach the center there’s no doubt that you’re venturing into sea turtle territory.
The southernmost of “The Peach State’s” four Golden Isles, Jekyll Island encompasses ten peaceful miles of shoreline. It shines like a classic Southern seacoast community, largely conserved in its natural state. Jekyll boasts a 1,000-acre maritime forest of oaks, cedar, cypress, magnolias, pines, and cabbage palms. The lovely parade of trees forms a lush green canopy over much of the 7-mile- long barrier isle, providing plentiful shade, leafy sanctuaries for birds, and dreamlike vistas in every direction. As a significant site on the Atlantic Migratory Flyway, Jekyll is a hotspot for birdwatchers. Snowy Egrets, Belted Kingfishers, Little Blue Heron, Wood Ducks, and Piping Plovers are among the large numbers of resident and migratory waterfowl. Scrutinize island foliage and treetops to catch glimpses of painted buntings, flame-red cardinals, or juncos. And don’t neglect scanning the skies for gliding kites, swooping ospreys, and hawks hunting their prey.
The stately main building at Georgia Sea Turtle Center has a brick-based mosaic turtle design imbedded in the sidewalk that leads to its entrance.
Unique artistic touches like this upcycled mosaic made entirely of plastic bottle caps add to the visual appeal of the aquarium.
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produce both genders of turtles because eggs in various positions within a nest are exposed to differing temperatures. Unfortunately, the odds of long-term survival are unfavorable for sea turtles. While making your rounds through the main building, be sure to reserve some time to watch rotating video footage of freshly hatched sea turtle babies. Hatchlings clamber out of their sandy nests and scurry down the beach to the relative safety of the ocean. Their journeys look so precarious. Potential threats are presented by everything from house lights and hungry racoons to abandoned beach chairs and random trash. It’s not surprising that survivors of such difficult passages are few and far between. According to current estimates, only one out of every 4,000 hatchling sea turtles is expected to live long enough to reach reproductive age.
A separate building houses therapeutic pools, plumbing and supplies needed for rehabilitation and veterinary treatment of recovering injured turtles.
Visitors can entertain artistic interests by slipping indoors to admire the stained-glass masterpieces at Faith Chapel. For a great way to wind down your day, take a leisurely stroll down the short but sweet Tupelo Trail. The state of Georgia, the sole owner of Jekyll island, strictly limits commercial development there. So, rest assured, whatever natural wonders you take pleasure in at Jekyll today will be preserved and protected for all your future visits. What better hometown could there be for Georgia’s only sea turtle infirmary? In 2007, Georgia Sea Turtle Center was established as an oceanographic research facility, public environmental education resource, and hospital for treating sick or injured coastal wildlife, particularly sea turtles. As you step inside the interpretive gallery, you can explore a virtual ocean of eye-catching and interactive marine life exhibits that impress visitors of all ages. Suspended from the ceiling, life size models of sea turtles appear to swim overhead. In Georgia’s coastal waters, five distinct turtle species—hawksbills, leatherbacks, greens, Kemp’s ridleys, and loggerheads—may be found. Additionally, diamondback terrapins live in estuaries, coastal areas with inflows of fresh water from rivers and streams. There’s a curious twist that affects sea turtle development. Individual gender is determined by the temperature of the sandy nest where specific eggs hatch. Warmer incubation temperatures produce female hatchlings while lower temps generate males. A single nest can
Thanks to the big glass window at the front of this treatment room, visitors can observe staff experts providing gentle, hands-on care to sea turtle patients.
A nest of sea turtle hatchlings.
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Regularly scheduled turtle feeding sessions include informative discussions about resident turtles’ dietary needs, healthcare routines and likelihood of release back into the deep blue sea.
Thanks to the big glass observation window that spans one side of the treatment room, visitors can watch veterinary specialists providing gentle, hands-on care to their sea turtle patients. Diagnosis of inpatient turtles might involve physical exams, x-ray studies and blood tests. Treatments can include use of vitamins and special nutritional protocols, fluid administration, tube feedings, prescription medications, or surgery—as indicated by each turtle’s specific health issues. Outside the main exhibit hall, a separate wood frame structure houses therapeutic pools, an apparent maze of white plastic pipes, and various supplies and equipment needed for rehabilitation and skilled treatment. Convalescing turtles are well cared for in spacious climate-controlled pools with meticulously balanced water quality, according to individual needs. Regularly scheduled turtle feeding sessions include lively expert-led discussions about resident turtles’ dietary requirements, healthcare routines, and the likelihood of their release into the deep blue sea. Whenever possible, the long-range therapeutic goal is to return rehabilitated turtles back to the ocean. When we visited the center we met Marimba, a recovering sea turtle who was rescued from the Mid-Atlantic Chesapeake Bay after suffering severe injuries and illness. Statistics concerning the survival of turtles like Marimba are sobering. Sea turtles of all ages are at risk of harm from infectious diseases, pollution, hypothermia,
and boat strike injuries. Nevertheless, the Jekyll center’s success rates are commendable. Since 2007, thanks to intensive efforts to enhance sea turtles’ prospects to survive and thrive, center staffers have managed to rehabilitate and release a total of 235 Kemp’s ridleys, 228 greens and 294 loggerheads back into the ocean. The fascinating details of sea turtles’ challenging life stories are certainly well presented at Jekyll Island’s outstanding sea turtle shelter.
Top quality interactive exhibits educate and engage adults as well as children.
Rehabilitating turtles are well cared for in spacious climate-controlled pools.
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St. Lucie County Aquarium/Smithsonian Marine Ecosystem Exhibit, Fort Pierce, Florida St. Lucie County Aquarium occupies a bright blue building on the grassy shores of the Indian River Lagoon, part of Florida’s Intracoastal Waterway. Essentially surrounded by water, the aquarium stands near the end of a scenic causeway that leads from the mainland to South Hutchinson Island, one of two barrier islands off the coast of Fort Pierce. A splendid string of Atlantic Ocean beaches and boardwalks are just one and one- half miles east of the aquarium. Fort Pierce is located on the “Sunshine State’s” Treasure Coast between the urban sprawls of north and south Florida. It occupies a pretty patch of Atlantic shoreline that has resisted being swallowed by the concrete jungle—a big advantage for nature-loving residents and tourists alike. There’s still plenty of undeveloped green space in Fort Pierce. And there are lots of protected blue and golden spaces too, with many public park preserves providing amazing blue waters and golden sand beaches—on the lagoon as well as the oceanfront. So, plan to go fishing, surfing, boating, paddleboarding, or kayaking. And be prepared for leisurely beach sessions and boardwalk strolls too. Is local shopping on your travel wish list? Fort Pierce’s waterfront Saturday marketplace is designated “Number One Farmer’s Market in Florida.” Just a few steps west is a revitalized
walkable downtown district reminiscent of a relaxed vintage version of Florida. And here’s a landlubber alert. A short drive west of town leads to working family ranches where real cowboys still tend their cattle herds and practice rodeo moves. The St. Lucie County Aquarium/Smithsonian Marine Ecosystems Exhibit was founded in 2000 when the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of Natural History retired its Atlantic coral reef tank from the original site in Washington, D.C. Scientists from the Fort Pierce based Smithsonian Marine Station collaborated with St. Lucie County Commissioners to launch a new aquatic complex. Today’s primary focus is to inspire visitors to preserve and protect Florida’s remarkable marine environments. You can optimize the quality of your aquarium tour with your phone by scanning the QR codes at select displays. The links provided take you to brief related video presentations by Smithsonian experts. Exhibits were developed as living models of six highly specialized local ecosystems. Tanks accommodate marine species that occupy the Indian River Lagoon and surrounding Atlantic waters. Each model in the line-up is a mesmerizing sight to behold. The largest and most dazzling representation is a mock-up of a Caribbean coral reef, complete with neon-tinted
The St. Lucie County Aquarium is housed in a bright blue building on the grassy shores of the Indian River Lagoon.
The touch tank experience at St. Lucie County Aquarium fascinates visitors of all ages.
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